Warn vr evo 12s (1 Viewer)

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Sep 12, 2018
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Location
Calgary
Anyone have said winch on their 80 ?
Just a couple of questions!!
Did you buy a cradle or make one?
Anyone still running a stock bumper with a warn vr evo?
( will be making a custom steel bumper after the Corona epidemic! )
If you do have this winch if you took photos when you installed it could you post them please.
Thanks in advance!
 
Has anyone got one in a shortbus bumper? or a vr evo 10s?

I want one, but I may have to remote mount the control box and I want to see what others have done.


do i have to be the first to post it up here?
 
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Yes, you do want to start your own thread. When requesting parts, post your ad in the classifieds. Follow this link.

He's not requesting or selling parts.

He's looking for tech of someone having installed one in a Slee Shortbus bumper.
 
Has anyone got one in a shortbus bumper? or a vr evo 10s?

I want one, but I may have to remote mount the control box and I want to see what others have done.


do i have to be the first to post it up here?
I have the vr12 and fit it in a stock bumper for now, I had to mount the control box on the front side of the rad as the cables were too short to mount inside the engine bay.
 
Cheers guys, I’ll suss it out today. In the mean time I found this

 
Well everything is back ordered, including mine. It’ll be here August 12. We worked out that the control box won’t fit on top of the winch, in a slee shortbus.

Sales guy was a bit hesitant but the fitter was saying it’s just as easy to remove the solenoid from the box and mount that somewhere. I’m thinking mount the solenoid on a bracket in the front of the battery box beside the AC dryer and run the plug through the grill. Which is kind of what I wanted to do anyway.

Will see how we get on when I have a chance to fit it.
 
Well it fits in the shortbus bar nicely, but I think we already knew that.
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Now I just need to get the solenoid box in behind the grill. It fits in there ok, I’m going to see a guy about making a bracket for me to mount it, and I’ll do it in such a way as to make more if anyone else should want one. Won’t have to extend the wires either. It will block some airflow through the radiator, for this reason I have removed the middle pair of Spotlights I had on there, if I can’t fit them below the middle hoop I’ll leave them off. I’m also going to move the license plate to the underside of the bar to let air through the rad.
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anyway, stand by for pics of the solenoid mount when that happens.

if I want to link both batteries for winching, is my 100amp redarc sbi112 solenoid going to do the job without blowing?
 
if I want to link both batteries for winching, is my 100amp redarc sbi112 solenoid going to do the job without blowing?

The paperwork with the winch should have a chart that shows amp draw based on how many wraps of rope are on the cylinder and how much tension is in the line. If you're pulling near the 12k rating of the winch, it's going to draw substantially more than 100 amps.

Cheers
 
The paperwork with the winch should have a chart that shows amp draw based on how many wraps of rope are on the cylinder and how much tension is in the line. If you're pulling near the 12k rating of the winch, it's going to draw substantially more than 100 amps.

Cheers

yeh it's going to pull more than 100amps pretty much every time I use it. so instead of using two batteries in parallel the winch is going to be wired to the cranking battery only with an isolator inline on the positive cable and I am going to wire up the jumpstart function on the redarc to start the car if any winching activities flatten the starter batt.
 
I have the vr12 and fit it in a stock bumper for now, I had to mount the control box on the front side of the rad as the cables were too short to mount inside the engine bay.

Besides control box, the 12k fit behind stock bumper no problem?
 
How to fit a Warn VR EVO10s into a slee shortbus bumper:

The bracket picks up the auto trans cooler mount holes behind the centre of the grill, the control box is mounted with three of the four original bolts. It has a small amount of flex front/back and no movement when you plug the controller in and out because your pressing downwards or pulling up.
It doesn't quite look like it in the photos below but there is enough of an air gap between the radiator and the control box, I will be keeping an eye on temps for a while anyway.
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The Control pug can be easily accessed from above with the bonnet up and when you close the bonnet with the hand controller plugged in, the cable doesn't have a sharp kink in it . This winch is also wireless so I’m not fitting any in cab winch controls
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I have a Blue Sea systems manual battery switch inline on the positive cable. This switch is good for 300A continuous with 500A for 5 minutes. Plenty for what I’ll be doing, considering that this winch draws a max of 360A at 10,000lbs and I will be using a double line pull for work on the heavier end of things. The switch sits in its own little stainless bracket that is TIG’d onto the Toyota battery strap.
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I tensioned the winch line this arvo and stuck the new winch hook on. The only thing left to do is to move the licence plate to a new bracket on the bottom half of the bumper to free up some airflow into the radiator.

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I do want to pull the control box apart and mount the solenoid and wireless receiver on their own brackets without the bulky plastic box, and have the control plug poke out through the grill. Doing it that way would have either reduced the area covering the radiator or completely avoided it all together. However I just did not have the time to figure it all out and get it done. That is a project for about 6 months time.
 
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Is there enough clearance to mount the control box in the gap to the side of the winch?
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