Wagonrack Rack and Barrier

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PhrogsPhorever

Whip it good!
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Well, I got 1973Guppie's rack and barrier system installed and I like it.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/350109-80-series-interior-wagon-racks-sale.html

It all started when I started looking for a Milford barrier so my 63qt ARB fridge wouldn't kill me when I had an accident. A few guys had the full barrier for sale, and while I was looking for some MudShip love to save some $$$$, 1973Guppie posted up his prototype rack and I immediately jumped on the band wagon.

So, a few months and many e-mails later, the finished product shows up on my doorstep in two boxes.

One box with the rack and barrier
rack1.JPG

And one box with the feet, brackets, nuts. bolts, etc, etc, etc.
rack2.JPG
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So, here was what I was replacing. A wood shelf system that my PO, Brandon had built. I liked it, but with the fridge on top it could have been on the back of my head if I ever wrecked, and the shelf was a little too high for the 63QT, it was hard to see in the fridge and I couldn't open the door all the way to fit the requisite amount of beer in there.

Old rack with fridge
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With no fridge and an old Con-Ferr box
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So, I immediately go into de-constructing the old shelf, bullthe cargo liner out and get around to cleaning out all the old french fries, beer bottle caps, nuts, bolts, 10 and 12mm sockets, and viola! The bed has seen the light of day for the first time in a long time!:cheers:

rack01.JPG

So, I start in with installing the feet first. I pulled all the bolts for the loops that hold the third row seats to the bed floor. I put the feet and corner brackets in, then bolt the base to the feet.

At this time, I run into 2 small problems. First, one of the corner brackets allen bolts will not screw in all the way during the final tightening. When I get my head in there, it looks like there was a bunch of powder coating baked in there, and I can't get quite enough torque with a dinky allen wrench to torque it in all the way. I haven't fixed it yet, but I'm going to run a tap thru there, and that should fix it up good.

rack9.JPG

Second problem, also in the final tightening, was the forward center feet also won't torque down all the way, but this one is different in the bolt head is flush, but the plate on the bottom is not flush to the bottom of the rack. What this may be, is there is a set of feet for the front, and a set of feet for the rear. In all honesty, I can't remember if I had them is the right place. I'll be pulling the rack apart nxt week to see if that's the case.

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Finally, I get around to finishing the rack. I manhandle the barrier portion inside and immediately go to work getting the top barrier brackets installed and bolted into the pard where the "oh s***" handle is. Once that is done, I get around to tightening down the 2 final knobs that hold the barrier to the rack base, and I notice that one of the tabs was bent, most likely in shipping and I can't torque it down all the way, but it is still functional. Easy fix, I'll just either pull the barrier off and straighten it out, or pull the knob off and use ye olde rubber mallett.

rack12.JPG

So, I do a final tightening of all the bolts and knobs and booyah, it's in the 80:beer:

rack4.JPG

Then I take to playing the shall game of fitting all my junk in there

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Behind the second row seats, the HiLift, sitting there until I bolt on the ConFerr brackets that I have.

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So, first impressions? Noah did a great job with it. The fit was great, a few of the hiccups are easily remedied and I have passed all this on to Noah so he can use it to make a better rack.

Seeing as this was a first run, there were no instructions per se, only an e-mail with all the tips to putting it in. It was a pretty wasy, :banana: job and took about 1 1/2 hours with a few beer breaks to get it in.

The quality of the rack, welds and hardware are really nice. He has been upgrading the nuts and bolts hardware constantly to gave the best product and look.

If you are looking to get a barrier, I highly recommend this:cheers:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/350109-80-series-interior-wagon-racks-sale.html
 
I'm interested in the amount of noise you may have on your first trail ride/ long road trip. Once I get more PM done and clean up my rig I'll def. be looking into one of these.
 
It doesn't rattle at all as of yet, had it on a small excursion locally around here with a hour and change highway trip. The only metal on metal is where the barrier bolts into the base. Anything else metal I have is bolted down, so no rattle at all. If you had metal tool boxes, you could probably throw some rubber matting or all weather carpet down to fix that.

Trust me, I have the 4BTA in the 80, and that motor brings the rattle to a whole new level. :grinpimp:
 
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Very nice Alex, I'll look forward to checking this out at an upcoming get-together!
 
Very nice Alex, I'll look forward to checking this out at an upcoming get-together!

Thanks Joe, hopefully I can get a weekend off one of these months. Hopefully I can make it down for one of the days on the 14-16th URE ride.

Anyway, I got my HiLift mounted right above the fridge and CO2 bottle, all I need is some wing nuts for the bolts to hold it down and It'll be secure.

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I found out a 9x9 Ozark Trail pop-up awning fits perfectly in the opening

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Still got some room underneath after the WalMart box and folding chairs go in there;)

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Oh man, that looks great, Alex!

And nice job, Noah! :cheers:
 
thanks guys! sorry you had the few troubles you did Alex, to be honest I should have run a tap through the threads, I was under the impression that the powdercoaters did this, but I should have checked. On the one foot that does not bolt down, it should go in fine, I test fitted everything in my own 80. Make sure that all the bolts are very loose when putting everything together. Everything needs to be loose a bit so it can move a bit so all the threads go in fine. I wanted to leave a little room for error based upon the different 80's and the possibility that the holes might be a bit different from truck to truck. All the base rack bolts need to be very loose and just the threads started when putting it together. Once they have all been started you can tighten them all down slowly one by one. Those bolts should be long enough as well, so make sure you did not use the longer bolts elsewhere on the rack. I scribed a few of the feet on the back with an "x", X = right or rear. Meaning if you are standing at the rear of the hatch facing forward, the foot with an X goes to your right and the farthest rear larger foot goes towards the back of the truck. If you need extra longer bolts for that one foot, just let me know, it is entirely possible that I did not put the right bolts in there, I can send them out right away.

PS - I love the way you mounted the hi lift and the ext., etc.

Noah
 
I too like the way the Hi-lift and extingher are mounted.What does the barrier weight? Can it be made out of Alu?


Dave
 
It "could" be made out of aluminum, but not by me, I don't have a tig welder and I would guess it would be more expensive for the material.

I have the weights posted on my for sale thread, can't remember the weights off hand. Overall actually it is not that heavy. It looks heavier than it actually is.

Noah
 
So, driving and wheeling a little but, I decided I had to secure the fridge and storage box I have in the back, but not to fear, I got come of the single hole D-rings from Noah when I bought my racks.

So, the d-rings are metal, and would rattle when they aren't being used, so O went to Lowes and got some carriage bolts, wingnuts and some big old fender washers. This will allow me to move and remove the d-rings without tools whenever I change the cargo load. I also got some turnbuckles to hold the fridge down

Fridge and turnbuckles. This works out good, as the fridge holds the water cans snug against the side of the bed area.

Back
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Front
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D-rings and bungee cord to hold the storage box down. This holds the box snug against the Co2 cylinder and the gallon jugs of fluid back there
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Next trick, mounting the amps, capacitor and fuse box for the lights, fridge and any other accessories I might throw back there:hillbilly:
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maybe i missed something, but what is up with that gate door? Storage?
 

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