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Waeco issue

Discussion in 'Camping & Outdoor Gear' started by IBCRUSN, Sep 15, 2012.

  1. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    Wow, sorry nuclearlemon, that it didn't work as smoothly for you. Looks like you need the exact same parts that I ordered to fix yours up. They sent you the newer model PCB's.

    Mine has been running flawlessly since I replaced the main PCB.

    Mine came apart just like yours. The only difficult part would be snaking the rainbow harness from the display PCB down through the (sealed) cabinet on the end to the compressor area where it connects to the main PCB. Looks like you might have to cut some of the plastic cabinet housing to make that happen though.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon not an addict Moderator

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    did you get yours in u.s. or out of australia? what part numbers did you use?

    thanks
     
  3. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    I'm pretty sure they came from Indiana, but didn't look closely at the packaging when it arrived. Refer back here for full discussion on my fridge: https://forum.ih8mud.com/expedition-builds/549915-waeco-cf50-issues-help-wanted.html

    I have the DC only model and these were the parts I ordered.
    According to the parts list manual, WAECO branded fridges have a S/N range of 04000821 - 05001543 for DC only models.
    Display PCB is: #02-00-05221...$50.00
    Main PCB is: #SP005MAINPCBASB...$36.00

    This may be what they sent you:
    The S/N range for the dual AC/DC models is 04000001-05001087
    Display PCB: #0200-005221...$50.00 (same as above)
    Main PCB: #SP005MAINPCBASA...$53.68

    And I called this number to get customer service (not the 1-800 number):
    USA
    SERVICE OFFICE
    Dometic, LLC
    2320 Industrial Parkway
    Elkhart, IN 46516
    574-294-2511

    I would see if they'll let you exchange the parts they sent you for what you need.
     
  4. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    Well, my Waeco started acting up again this weekend and right before a planned camping trip. It acts like its in emergency mode no matter where I set the thermostat mode (1 thru 7)....hmmm sounds familiar. Looks like I may be installing the display/control PCB sooner than later.
     
  5. hoser

    hoser SILVER Star

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    Maybe clean all the connections and apply dielectric grease before swapping parts.
     
  6. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    thanks, will give that a shot.
     
  7. e9999

    e9999 You want to do what...? Moderator

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    if all else fails and one can't get the correct PCB etc, rather than junking the fridge, it might be possible to bypass the inner electronics altogether and just hardwire the compressor to run all the time (it it's already doing that, so much the better), and then add a separate cheap temperature sensor in the box with a control box/relay that would turn all power to the fridge on and off as necessary.
     
  8. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    I already have the correct PCB's. I order one of each at the same time. I just replaced the main one (mounted in the lower cabinet) first and it fixed my earlier issues. The 2nd (display) PCB is still wrapped up in anti-static bubble wrap on my desk.

    But I hear what you are saying. I never intend to trash the fridge. The components work (all too well). I'm sure I could find someone willing to attempt new electronics for it, with a little more digging...maybe some recent EE grad from Tech.
     
  9. Bogo

    Bogo FOOF

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    You could always get a 12VDC powered temperature controller and use it to cycle the whole unit on and off. A month or two ago I got an ad from Amazon on one. It was being sold by one of their Amazon market affiliates. I'm kicking myself for not getting it as it had separate 10 Amp relays for both heat and cool and was only $25.
     
  10. Hot Rod

    Hot Rod

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    Waeco thermistor replacement

    Another easier option but a little bit more expensive is to buy the entire thermistor and cable. I found the following Waeco thermistor with free shipping U.S. and international for $11.99. Might even be a cheaper one to be found out there on the web but this one seems to work after I installed it:

    http://way-cold.com

     
  11. Hot Rod

    Hot Rod

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    Another easier option but a little bit more expensive is to buy the entire thermistor and cable. I found the following Waeco thermistor with free shipping U.S. and international for $11.99. Might even be a cheaper one to be found out there on the web but this one seems to work after I installed it:

    http://www.way-cold.com
     
  12. nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon not an addict Moderator

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    bmthiker any updates?

    after using the $2 thermistor, freezing is still an issue and my serial number is outside your listing (02000071), but i may try those as it's still cheaper than a new fridge. if you haven't put new pc board in yet, i'd appreciate detailed pics to make sure it matches mine before i blow more $

    i had a guy respond to a craigslist ad, a year ago (when i had no money to fix fridge) and i've since lost his info and no response from new ads :frown:

    afraid i may be buying a new fridge after christmas
     
  13. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    Sorry Ige, too many other life projects right now. My fridge is sitting on my work bench waiting for some attention. Will post results when I have time to address it.
     
  14. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    Finally got around to swapping out the controller board. The swap went pretty smoothly, but I'm still in the same situation. Test run on the 24V inverter I bought with the Waeco and it ran fine for the first 12 hours. I placed a couple of six packs in the main compartment.

    I moved the thermostat setting up/down every 30-45-60 minutes or so and witnessed the temp fluctuations with a refrigerator thermometer clipped to the top of the basket near the partition. After 4-5 hours of this, I left it on "1" the lowest setting to sit overnight. Woke up the next morning and it was running colder than it should for that setting. I left it running all day and by the evening there was a layer of frost inside the whole main compartment. Pulled one of the beers out and it immediately became frosty when exposed to the ambient air in the kitchen. Poured the first beer and it was frigid but not frozen. Opened the second beer a few minutes later for my wife and the head in the bottle froze in the neck.

    Feeling pretty dejected about this after spending $$ on new boards. May try to find an RV shop and see if they have any experience with one of these units. Googling for this kind of service has produced little results so I may have to start making phone calls.

    Any suggestions would be welcome.

    WaecoCF50_DC (20).jpg
    Used a pull string attached to the old controller's ribbon wire.
    WaecoCF50_DC (21).jpg
    Swapped the string to the new ribbon wire and it easily pulled through the cabinet/insulation.
    WaecoCF50_DC (22).jpg

    WaecoCF50_DC (23).jpg

    WaecoCF50_DC (26).jpg
     
  15. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    After re-reading some of these posts, I guess I'll try to change the thermistor. Anyone have tips on how to go about this. Ige, did you relocate your new thermistor (and just cut the old one), or take the whole cabinet apart to re-run to the OEM location?

    Does the way-cold replacement thermistor kit work on the CF50 models? The link above only says CF80, CF110 and VERA/VERAB/VRB models.
     
  16. nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon not an addict Moderator

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    thermistor doesn't appear to have helped me...mine still freezes everything on 1 :frown:
     
  17. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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  18. 69vortec

    69vortec SILVER Star

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    My CF40 recently started freezing everything also. It also would turn off when trying to change temps. Once I removed the push button cover over the control board it worked fine. I think one of the buttons was stuck causing it to freeze.
     
  19. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    I tried that trick a long time ago (as it was low hanging fruit on the diagnosis path) and it did not change anything at the time.

    I tried it again this week and it still freezes stuff on the lowest thermostat setting.
     
  20. IBCRUSN

    IBCRUSN

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    Thermister didn't fix mine and I ended up smoking the power board for another reason while troubleshooting. Unless I can find a way to bypass the power board and install a rheostat for temp control I think it'll become a 54qt humidor. I'm not very interested in dealing with the parts issue Ige dealt with.