Wacky alignment results

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Joined
May 6, 2019
Threads
4
Messages
50
Location
Albany
Took my new to me 200 (completely stock) cruiser for an alignment (the dealer I bought it from said they had just done it (dealer is states away can’t bring it back to them)), everything’s all over the place.
Anyone have any ideas on what could have caused this wackyness?

I’m assuming the fix is just adjustable control arms in the front camber kit in the rear, but I was under the impression this thing led a pretty pampered life, I was surprised by the results lol.

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Took my new to me 200 (completely stock) cruiser for an alignment (the dealer I bought it from said they had just done it (dealer is states away can’t bring it back to them)), everything’s all over the place.
Anyone have any ideas on what could have caused this wackyness?

I’m assuming the fix is just adjustable control arms in the front camber kit in the rear, but I was under the impression this thing led a pretty pampered life, I was surprised by the results lol.

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View attachment 1974786

If your ride is "completely stock" as you say, why couldn't the alignment shop get it into spec?
 
Have a look at the eccentric adjusters on your lower control arms. If they couldn't get the camber to move at all on both sides, your driver's side adjusters should have the bolt all the way inboard, and the passenger side all the way outboard. Check both the front and rear bolts on both arms.. On these vehicles you move camber by adjusting both bolts on one arm the same direction (slides the whole arm in or out), you adjust caster by turning the bolts on one arm different directions, (pivoting the arm CW or CCW as viewed from above).

If your adjusting bolts aren't all the way to one side they didn't even try to adjust it.
 
Have a look at the eccentric adjusters on your lower control arms. If they couldn't get the camber to move at all on both sides, your driver's side adjusters should have the bolt all the way inboard, and the passenger side all the way outboard. Check both the front and rear bolts on both arms.. On these vehicles you move camber by adjusting both bolts on one arm the same direction (slides the whole arm in or out), you adjust caster by turning the bolts on one arm different directions, (pivoting the arm CW or CCW as viewed from above).

If your adjusting bolts aren't all the way to one side they didn't even try to adjust it.
Aha, looks like they didn’t even try. Lazy busters. At least I’d imagine fully adjusted the head would be to the extreme right or left. Thanks for the tip, I’ll have a word with them for sure.

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If your ride is "completely stock" as you say, why couldn't the alignment shop get it into spec?
Hence my confusion, but it looks like the simplest answer was the correct one, they didn’t attempt anything but toe.

I should amend my statement though, I haven’t done anything to it and I’ve yet to find an aftermarket part except for a suspiciously new looking camber adjuster bolt.
 
Now that I see some corrosion it’s possible they couldn’t get the adjusters to move. But they definitely should have told you that.
 
Now that I see some corrosion it’s possible they couldn’t get the adjusters to move. But they definitely should have told you that.
We had the same line of thinking and was about to update, they're frozen toight. I hit them with some penetrating oil and I'll libate to see if they'll come loose. Its Firestone , I'm sure the tech was in get it done mode, they were slammed.
 
The nut on those is very tight. 207ft-lb from the factory. And if the other dealer got them to move who knows how much is on them now.

Even if you get the nuts loose, the bolts tend to rust and bond with the inner sleeve of the bushing, making it where you can’t actually rotate the bolt to get the eccentric to adjust anything. Hopefully that isn’t the case for you.
 
The nut on those is very tight. 207ft-lb from the factory. And if the other dealer got them to move who knows how much is on them now.

Even if you get the nuts loose, the bolts tend to rust and bond with the inner sleeve of the bushing, making it where you can’t actually rotate the bolt to get the eccentric to adjust anything. Hopefully that isn’t the case for you.
Good information. Path forward if the worst case scenario: new lower control arms and eccentric bolts, layer of boeshield or graphite based anti seize before reinstallation. Anything Off the top of mind I might be missing?
Just planning....
 
Good information. Path forward if the worst case scenario: new lower control arms and eccentric bolts, layer of boeshield or graphite based anti seize before reinstallation. Anything Off the top of mind I might be missing?
Just planning....

You might be able to get the bushings out and reuse the arm.. but that can be impossible depending on how rusted everything is. Plus your old lower ball joints.

So yeah, new arms and bolts and adjusters.. I’m not an expert on preventing corrosion on that stuff. One “drawback” to living in Texas I guess.
 
You might be able to get the bushings out and reuse the arm.. but that can be impossible depending on how rusted everything is. Plus your old lower ball joints.

So yeah, new arms and bolts and adjusters.. I’m not an expert on preventing corrosion on that stuff. One “drawback” to living in Texas I guess.
Hmmm ah yes, drawback (lol). I’ll pull upon my upstate ny knowledge on the prevention.
First rule of rust, it always spreads (my rule, 0 scientific basis)
I’ll probably go Scorched earth and start from zero if it’s that bad.
Much appreciated
 
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