Vibrations at high speed

[Matsui]

I have a lifted 2009 GX470 with 270k miles that was driving smooth forever until April, this year and this problem is not going away. The vibrations are primarily on the floor and then also felt with the seats. The steering does not shake most of the time. I've gotten the tires balanced 3 times at a very reputable tire shop. They have also inspected all suspension and wheel components and everything looks fine. They inspected the driveshaft and greased it especially in the front part which they said was very dry. Other than that I got the all the brake parts replaced front and back. The tire shop just did the front wheels road force balance and since we ran out of time, I'm planning to go back to get the rear ones done as well. I'm not sure if that's going to make too much of a difference because I didn't feel any improvement after the fronts were done.

Does anyone have any experience similar to this? This has been stressing me out for 4 months now and I can't even drive in the left lane because of the vibrations and keeping at speed around 60 or less - this is extremely frustrating.

Any advice welcome.

 

[vipergrhd]

Did you get new tires? Any work done before the vibration started? Do you still have the factory lug centric wheel? If you do, they should be balanced with a pin plate to simulate lug nuts applying pressure to the wheel, look up Haweka plate on YT.

 

[Matsui]

No changes to the wheels, tires or lugs for a while when this started happening. Everything has been very well maintained and I've had the same suspension with Method wheels for 5+ years without any vibration issues until now. The tires were replaced a year ago with same Wildepeak AT 285/70.

 

[Rednexus]

I'm wondering if you may have a damaged driveshaft, or it may have thrown a balance weight. If the driveshaft was not being routinely greased it's possible that it's damaged internally (slip yolk or a U-joint) but the damage is not apparent from the outside. A new driveshaft is only around $300 from Lexus (it's an updated part from the old driveshaft), and to be honest they usually don't last much past 200K miles (my slip yolk was worn out well before that). It's a simple job to R&R one.

If you are brave you can remove the rear driveshaft, lock the center diff, and drive it in FWD mode to see if the vibration goes away. Or, just replace the shaft. I've driven my GX in RWD mode w/o a front driveshaft but have not tried it in FWD mode w/o the rear driveshaft. It was fun spinning tires in RWD mode .

 

[Matsui]

I'm wondering if you may have a damaged driveshaft, or it may have thrown a balance weight. If the driveshaft was not being routinely greased it's possible that it's damaged internally (slip yolk or a U-joint) but the damage is not apparent from the outside. A new driveshaft is only around $300 from Lexus (it's an updated part from the old driveshaft), and to be honest they usually don't last much past 200K miles (my slip yolk was worn out well before that). It's a simple job to R&R one.

If you are brave you can remove the rear driveshaft, lock the center diff, and drive it in FWD to see if the vibration goes away. Or, just replace the shaft. I've driven my GX in RWD mode w/o a front driveshaft but have not tried it in FWD mode w/o the rear driveshaft. It was fun spinning tires in RWD mode .

Good point. And this is what I'm really leaning towards as well because I'm running out of options at this point. The only thing left is road force balance in the rear but after not experiencing any improvements with the fronts (which the tech said needed it) I'm not sure if doing the rears will improve the situation.

 

[Rednexus]

Here is the driveshaft Toyota told me to get for my 2007 GX470. I'd still verify for your specific GX as there appear to be multiple variations of this part out there.

https://parts.belllexusnorthscottsdale.com/p/Lexus__GX-460/Drive-Shaft/120393605/3711060A41.html

They've gone up a bit and are $342 right now. Again it probably needs to be replaced anyway due to wear, especially if your slip yolk was dry. It may have a ton of play from wear at the slip yolk, that could easily cause a speed-based vibration. But, no guarantees it's the driveshaft.

FWIW, I grease my driveshaft at every oil change (5K miles), I think my OE one wore out as the previous owners didn't grease it enough.

 

[Matsui]

Here is the driveshaft Toyota told me to get for my 2007 GX470. I'd still verify for your specific GX as there appear to be multiple variations of this part out there.

https://parts.belllexusnorthscottsdale.com/p/Lexus__GX-460/Drive-Shaft/120393605/3711060A41.html

They've gone up a bit and are $342 right now. Again it probably needs to be replaced anyway due to wear, especially if your slip yolk was dry. It may have a ton of play from wear at the slip yolk, that could easily cause a speed-based vibration. But, no guarantees it's the driveshaft.

FWIW, I grease my driveshaft at every oil change (5K miles), I think my OE one wore out as the previous owners didn't grease it enough.

Really appreciate your advice. Since money is tight, let me just get done with the RFB on the rears which isn't costing me anything extra at this point and then go straight to driveshaft after that.

 

[Matsui]

One thing someone said online is i can test to see if driveshaft is the issue by putting the gear in neutral at high speed like 70mph and see if it affects the vibration, and then put it back in "D". I just wan to make sure if it is safe and not going to break anything?

 

[Rednexus]

One thing someone said online is i can test to see if driveshaft is the issue by putting the gear in neutral at high speed like 70mph and see if it affects the vibration, and then put it back in "D". I just wan to make sure if it is safe and not going to break anything?

The driveshaft will still be spinning any time the wheels are spinning, regardless of if the transmission is in N or D. The only way to eliminate the driveshaft as a variable it to remove the driveshaft, lock the CDL, and drive the GX in FWD mode, per my earlier post, as there would be no driveshaft spinning at that point.

Or remove it and take it to a driveline shop for inspection (where it could be balanced), but at that point you'll be in more time and effort than replacing it with a new OEM drivehaft.

 

[Matsui]

Some bad news - replaced the driveshaft with a new OEM and it did not reduce the vibrations at all at high speed. It made a slight difference where the car seems smoother/quieter when driving below 40-50mph, but as soon as it goes above 60 it starts vibrating on the floor/seat. and especially at 70+ which makes it very uncomfortable. The mechanic checked all the suspension and everything looks good. I'm really really frustrated with this situation and now starting to run out of options on what to do.

My setup is Eibach 1.5" coils F/R, Method 17" hub-centric wheels which I got over 5 years ago and with 285/70 WildPeake A/T tires that were replaced a year ago. It was driving perfectly smooth above 70/80 and even 90+ before this happened. Never ever had any vibration issues even after the lift, new wheels and bigger AT tires.

This is what I've done so far....
---Wheels have been balanced twice
---then road force balanced
---suspension checked
---brakes checked
---new OEM driveshaft just installed

Welcome any advice at this point to look into.

 

[Rednexus]

Sorry it didn't fix it. The only last spinning driveline item I can think of is the front driveshaft. It's pretty easy to remove and run the GX in RWD mode, with the CDL locked. The driveshaft comes in and out with 14 mm bolts/nuts (4 on each flange). I've done that for over a week on my rig with zero issues, including at highway speeds. It basically makes the GX a 2wd truck (but again, CDL has to be engaged). It's worth checking, just to rule it out.

Last suggestion I can think of is to try a different set of wheels/tires that are known good. If you have a Toyota buddy willing to loan you a set for a test drive. I think that's a long shot, but again it might be worth checking.

 

[Matsui]

Those are both good suggestions. I was actually thinking about swapping the wheels/tires with another set if it is locally available to borrow from somewhere. That way the this issue will be isolated for sure. Will report back when there is an update.

 

[Cocajun]

Those are both good suggestions. I was actually thinking about swapping the wheels/tires with another set if it is locally available to borrow from somewhere. That way the this issue will be isolated for sure. Will report back when there is an update.

I had the same problem; went through all the same steps you are doing. It ended up being a rear wheel bearing. Bearing was silent, it baffled three different shops before yota mafia in Florida figured it out. Smooth as silk now.

 

[Rednexus]

I had the same problem; went through all the same steps you are doing. It ended up being a rear wheel bearing. Bearing was silent, it baffled three different shops before yota mafia in Florida figured it out. Smooth as silk now.

That's certainly a possible cause as well. If the rig has OE wheel bearings at 270K on it, they are probably quite worn. 200K is a decent lifespan for rear wheel bearings before they usually need to be replaced.

 

[Matsui]

I had the same problem; went through all the same steps you are doing. It ended up being a rear wheel bearing. Bearing was silent, it baffled three different shops before yota mafia in Florida figured it out. Smooth as silk now.

Good point, and I will look into that. I got the suspension/wheel related stuff checked by a mechanic and I do recall asking specifically for wheel bearing and they said no issues. Wondering if your mechanic found any play in it or if they seemed very worn off? Do you have the part number for the bearing and do you remember around how much it cost (part & labor)?

 

[Cocajun]

Good point, and I will look into that. I got the suspension/wheel related stuff checked by a mechanic and I do recall asking specifically for wheel bearing and they said no issues. Wondering if your mechanic found any play in it or if they seemed very worn off? Do you have the part number for the bearing and do you remember around how much it cost (part & labor)?

There was no play or noise from the bearing. They found it by suspending the truck and putting it in gear to spin the tires and putting their hand on the axle to feel the vibration. When the axle was removed from the truck it was very gritty feeling and did not spin smoothly. That is why 3 other shops could not diagnose the vibration and all three shops said the bearings were good. Yota mafia didn't have the correct tool to change the bearing, so they put a whole axle assembly from O'Reily on the vehicle for now. Toyota requires a special tool to change the rear bearing. They could have sent it out to have the bearing changed, but that would have taken several days, and I was returning from a trip to Florida and couldn't wait. I stopped by there on my way home out of desperation, because nobody else could find the cause of the vibration. I took the whole oem axle assembly, so I can change out the oem bearing later. I'm leaving the aftermarket axle for now because it is working great, it does bug me that it is not oem LOL. For that reason, I don't have parts numbers or price of repair with oem parts sorry.

 

[Rednexus]

Rear wheel bearings do require a press and a special tube/adapter to install. Most shops should be able to handle them. I put SKF bearings in my GX from Rock Auto, they were Japanese-made bearings in a SKF box.

Much like the driveshaft they probably need to be replaced anyway due to age - but no guarantees that's the problem. If you are going to do the work to pull the axles to inspect the bearings you might as well have them replaced. I'd check the front driveshaft first (as it's literally right under the driver's side floorboard), then wheels/tires if that's not it, then the rear wheel bearings, as the first two of those are free to check.

 

[Cocajun]

Rear wheel bearings do require a press and a special tube/adapter to install. Most shops should be able to handle them. I put SKF bearings in my GX from Rock Auto, they were Japanese-made bearings in a SKF box.

Much like the driveshaft they probably need to be replaced anyway due to age - but no guarantees that's the problem. If you are going to do the work to pull the axles to inspect the bearings you might as well have them replaced. I'd check the front driveshaft first (as it's literally right under the driver's side floorboard), then wheels/tires if that's not it, then the rear wheel bearings, as the first two of those are free to check.
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Thanks for the tip about the bearings from rock auto. I checked on the price bearings and even from bell lexus on sale they were pricey! I found a local mechanic who can change them for me when I'm ready.

 

[Matsui]

Quick not so good update...

Dropped the car couple of time at an independent mechanic who is really really good and has experience with lifted trucks.
He performed all sort of tests on the lift to isolate where the vibration was occurring.
He put on the OEM tire/wheel set on my car put it on the lift and ran it, and the vibrations were still happening and he identified coming from the front left side.
So he replaced the front left axle and the wheel bearing and the problem still persisted.
He basically went through everything on the car and cannot tell at this point where the problem is stemming from. The vibrations are only felt on the floor above 60mph but consistently at 70+.

So far, I've had a very reputable tire/wheel shop do wheel balancing twice and road force balance afterwards. They checked all components, and could not find any issues with anything.
Being so desperate to resolve this issue, I got he drive shaft replaced despite them telling me that they don't see any issues with it. They were right and the problem persisted.
Then went to the mechanic who is someone I know very well and he is a good friend of mine, and he doesn't really want to start replacing the parts unless he sees any issues so that's where we are.

I'm going to pick up my car this afternoon with the same problem lingering. Really really frustrated but I can't really afford to keep dropping money on this without knowing the cause...

Maybe I'll wait a month or two until I have enough funds to replace the next logical part. If anyone has any expert advice what to do next, please let me know.

 

[Rednexus]

Have you tried removing the front driveshaft and driving without it per my earlier post?