Valve cover gaskets/ spark plug tube seals 2010 LX570
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will be doing this too in the near future.. Bump for any tips...
I did this last year and took video footage, but never had the spare time to compile it into a final video.
Overall, not a horrible job. You'll want to get the FSM instructions, particularly for the info on torquing down the bolts on the valve cover.
On mine the valve cover gaskets were in great shape but the tube seals were crunchy and cracked. Take care in prying out the old seals without scratching the aluminum seating surface.
You'll need to undo a variety of plastic electrical connectors. I found that warming them slightly with a heat gun made them immensely easier to disconnect. Also there are little gray push-on connectors that sit on studs. They hold the wiring harness in place at various places. I ended up using two tiny screwdrivers to pry apart the little legs that hold them onto the studs.
Which brings me to the hardest part (at least for me). That is, getting the valve covers off and back on, limboing under the wiring harness. Having an extra set of hands to hold the harness out of the way for those parts will be very helpful. Getting the wiring harness off the valve cover seems to be the primary hurdle in this job, aside from limited space to swing wrenches. An 80 Series valve cover job is downright simple in comparison.
Finally, on the underneath of the valve cover, there are little round, rubber seals stuck to the surface. Consider replacing these while you're under there, or at the very least be careful not to dislodge them.
Much of this job shares steps with spark plug removal, but I'm assuming you've already been through that if you know you need tube seals. You'll be disconnecting quite a few plugs, bolts, and tubes (with some minor coolant loss, IIRC), so just be methodical in putting it all back together.
Oh, and there are a couple write-ups on the internet about doing this job on a 5.7L Tundra. Those were very helpful to me, although I have long since discarded the links
Overall, not a horrible job. You'll want to get the FSM instructions, particularly for the info on torquing down the bolts on the valve cover.
On mine the valve cover gaskets were in great shape but the tube seals were crunchy and cracked. Take care in prying out the old seals without scratching the aluminum seating surface.
You'll need to undo a variety of plastic electrical connectors. I found that warming them slightly with a heat gun made them immensely easier to disconnect. Also there are little gray push-on connectors that sit on studs. They hold the wiring harness in place at various places. I ended up using two tiny screwdrivers to pry apart the little legs that hold them onto the studs.
Which brings me to the hardest part (at least for me). That is, getting the valve covers off and back on, limboing under the wiring harness. Having an extra set of hands to hold the harness out of the way for those parts will be very helpful. Getting the wiring harness off the valve cover seems to be the primary hurdle in this job, aside from limited space to swing wrenches. An 80 Series valve cover job is downright simple in comparison.
Finally, on the underneath of the valve cover, there are little round, rubber seals stuck to the surface. Consider replacing these while you're under there, or at the very least be careful not to dislodge them.
Much of this job shares steps with spark plug removal, but I'm assuming you've already been through that if you know you need tube seals. You'll be disconnecting quite a few plugs, bolts, and tubes (with some minor coolant loss, IIRC), so just be methodical in putting it all back together.
Oh, and there are a couple write-ups on the internet about doing this job on a 5.7L Tundra. Those were very helpful to me, although I have long since discarded the links
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Just wanted to add the part numbers needed to do this job. FYI, the Felpro kit does not have all the necessary gaskets. There are 5 gasket on the underside of each cover. This is a very big job, so I'd say it's worth spending the money to put in OEM. You don't want to do this job again!
Here they are:
Here they are:
| Spark Plug Tube Seal | 11193-70010 | 8 | N/A | ||
| Valve Cover Gasket | 11214-0S010 | 1 | N/A | ||
| Valve Cover Gasket | 11213-0S010 | 1 | N/A | ||
| Engine Valve Cover Gasket | 11159-0P010 | 4 | N/A |
| Gasket Camshaft Bea | 11159-38010 | 2 | N/A | ||
| Engine Valve Cover Gasket | 90430-A0001 | 4 | N/A |
Hey guys, just pulled my first plug and it had a good bit of oil on it:
I'm assuming I'll try and tackle the job of replacing all the gaskets/seals. So, do you know if the list above is appropriate for both LC and LX? I have a 2011 LX with 127K miles.
I'm looking in the FSM now and it says to apply "Toyota Genuine Seal Packing Black, Three Bond 1207B". Did you guys do that? I don't see any mention of it here. If so, where exactly does it go? All the way around the lip of the area where the camsahft is (don't know the official name, the part covered by the valve cover) or just the two small places they point to in the diagram?
Any hints on how to get the old tube seals out? I'm worried about scratching the soft metal of the valve cover with a screwdriver. The FSM says to tape a screwdriver and pry them out but there really isn't anything to pry against, so to speak.
Yes get a seal puller and lift from the inside on the bottom of the seal (top of valve cover).
Hey @Supra88 and @Hoosier Daddy , any tips on the "water by-pass assembly"? It's the pair of pipes on the passenger side that you move aside to do the plugs.
That's not a problem. However, as you know from posts above, I'm in the process of replacing the gaskets so I need to remove the valve cover and this thing is in the way. Am I correct in assuming there is coolant in there? If so, how much? I just replaced my coolant a few weeks ago and I don't want half of that expensive Toyota SLLC pouring out. I've thought about draining the radiator some into a clean bucket and then when I'm done with the valve covers and everything plugged back up, pouring the coolant back in.
Also, any tips on getting the hoses off easily? It's been a real PITA so far on the hoses I've managed to remove.
That's not a problem. However, as you know from posts above, I'm in the process of replacing the gaskets so I need to remove the valve cover and this thing is in the way. Am I correct in assuming there is coolant in there? If so, how much? I just replaced my coolant a few weeks ago and I don't want half of that expensive Toyota SLLC pouring out. I've thought about draining the radiator some into a clean bucket and then when I'm done with the valve covers and everything plugged back up, pouring the coolant back in.
Also, any tips on getting the hoses off easily? It's been a real PITA so far on the hoses I've managed to remove.
Remove the bolts holding the pipes on, including the bolt on the front and the one on the back. Remove a couple of hoses so you can move the pipes out of the way. I was replacing my heater tees so I had some hoses already pulled off. You will only lose a small amount of coolant.
Hey guys, finally finished this up yesterday. Took about 2.5 long days. As others have said, the time and difficulty is mostly around getting everything out of the way and then put back together. I spent nearly 35 minutes trying to get one small bolt back in place. Not sure if it was a critical bolt because all it did was hold a wire bundle in place but did not want that bundle jiggling around and eventually shorting some wires out.
I'm sure someone with more experience could do it in significantly less time than I did but I wanted to make sure I was being methodical about it. Even still, I got every put back together and only then realized that the plug that connects to the air breather box was dangling behind the water pipes. Had to remove the air breather box and loosen several bolts again to get the wire out so it could be plugged in.
I did put the RTV on one side because other folks were suggesting it be done. However, it only needs to be done in two small sections of the rim and not the entire rim. It did NOT get done on the first side I did because I'd already buttoned it up before a consensus was reached on whether it should or should not be included. I'll let you know if the un-RTV'ed side starts to leak. Praying it does not.
Thanks for your help and quick responses @Supra88 !
I'm sure someone with more experience could do it in significantly less time than I did but I wanted to make sure I was being methodical about it. Even still, I got every put back together and only then realized that the plug that connects to the air breather box was dangling behind the water pipes. Had to remove the air breather box and loosen several bolts again to get the wire out so it could be plugged in.
I did put the RTV on one side because other folks were suggesting it be done. However, it only needs to be done in two small sections of the rim and not the entire rim. It did NOT get done on the first side I did because I'd already buttoned it up before a consensus was reached on whether it should or should not be included. I'll let you know if the un-RTV'ed side starts to leak. Praying it does not.
Thanks for your help and quick responses @Supra88 !
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Congrats on accomplishing a very big undertaking! You'll be fine without the FIPG.
I went on Richmond Toyota’s website which has great prices. It is saying the Engine Valve Cover Gaskets part number listed above doesn’t fit the 2009 LC. Also the Gasket Camshaft BEA part number listed comes back as a fuel pump gasket. Have these part numbers changed by chance?
Ordering parts as I'm starting to get a weep on the passenger cover at 192k miles. I think the only part number that's superseded is as below. Also added Toyota FIPG.
| Spark Plug Tube Seal | 11193-70010 | 8 |
| Valve Cover Gasket | 11214-0S010 | 1 |
| Valve Cover Gasket | 11213-0S010 | 1 |
| Engine Valve Cover Gasket | 11159-0P010 | 4 |
| Gasket Camshaft Bea | 2 | |
| Engine Valve Cover Gasket | 90430-A0001 | 4 |
| Engine Seal Packing 103 (Black FIPG) | Three Bond 1207B | 00295-00103 | 1 |
As I'm thinking through this...
I wonder if there's more attention that should be on valve cover leaks. I recall a couple notable occasions of fire and alternator burnout on the boards - possibly associated with more significant valve cover leaks. They all start with a weep but can and will evolve into a leak.
Just thinking as our rigs get older, that there should be more attention paid to these things as there is inherent risk. Like the valley plate or embossed radiator crack, where a leak starts small but can develop into something that could overheat the motor.
Proactive maintenance to make sure things don't happen on adventure trips.
I wonder if there's more attention that should be on valve cover leaks. I recall a couple notable occasions of fire and alternator burnout on the boards - possibly associated with more significant valve cover leaks. They all start with a weep but can and will evolve into a leak.
Just thinking as our rigs get older, that there should be more attention paid to these things as there is inherent risk. Like the valley plate or embossed radiator crack, where a leak starts small but can develop into something that could overheat the motor.
Proactive maintenance to make sure things don't happen on adventure trips.
Is that weep primarily at the front? If so it could be the timing chain cover.. pretty common with these engines.
Hardly worth addressing directly though, given how much work is involved. Doing the valve covers then periodically degreasing the chain cover leak will usually keep it from making a real mess. I did this for over 100k.
Also pay close attention to the oil distribution tubes under the valve covers when you remove them. The old gaskets cause their lugs to stick to the cam tower and bend the tubes.. if they aren't manipulated back into their little recesses before bolting it all back together you can crack the valve cover pretty easily. It'll make a lot more sense when you see it disassembled.