Valve Cover Gasket (1 Viewer)

BMThiker

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I've had weeping gaskets for about a year. Nothing serious, but it was griming up the engine and I've just been procrastinating. If I had got all my parts together earlier, I would have done this when I did the vac/vent line updates. It's not a difficult job, but it does take some time. The most frustrating part is trying to get some of the plastic clips holding coolant hoses or the engine harness to relinquish their grip. You'll need 8mm, 10mm, 12mm sockets with an extension, as well as an 8mm Allen wrench (or socket drive). I found that a 1/4" drive with a 6" extension was all I really needed for this job - nothing needs the torque of a larger drive. When you remove the Throttle Body Assembly, you disconnect two coolant lines, so needle nose vise grips or actual hose pliers are a plus. A small pick tool is helpful to remove the old gaskets from the valve cover and spark plug tubes. You'll want needle nose pliers and small flat head screwdrivers for prying harness/hose clips open/off as needed. If you are really OCD, you may want to replace some of the clips that orient legs of the wiring harness on top of the valve cover. I chose not to bother replacing clips, but rewrapped some of the loom as needed. Good luck finding part numbers for those clips, too.

My parts list:
11213-AD010 valve cover gasket
11214-AD010 valve cover gasket
90210-06013 washer, seal (x6)
12196-50010 gasket, oil filler neck
22271-0P010 throttle body gasket (I already did this when I replaced my TB assembly about 3 months ago)

Also, I recently replaced a bunch of vac/vent lines and the PCV valve, so reference those here. It's a good time to do all of this and possibly your coil packs (90919-02248) if they have some high mileage.

I didn't do these, but I'd recommend replacing these small coolant lines while you are in there. Two connect to the TB assembly and the 3rd is right behind it. They are next on my list.
16264-31010 hose, water bypass #2
16281-31011 hose, water bypass #4
90910-12262 hose, water bypass #5

Air cleaner assembly and air surge tank removed. Note the coolant lines from the water pump assembly to the TB are clamped. Cover up your intake or stuff rags in the 6 holes before you get too deep into this. There is slight oil build up on the intake passages, but nothing alarming - it's just from venting in the valve covers. There are seven 10mm bolts and two 10mm nuts on each valve cover. The air surge tank has two 10mm nuts and four 8mm bolts.
ValveCoverGaskets (7).JPG


I pulled the passenger side first. Note the deteriorating plastic loom material. It's important to cover the air intake passages before you start moving this brittle stuff around or you'll end up with plastic bits down in the valve seats. Everything looks pretty clean inside. Happy to not find any odd wear the cam shafts.
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Here is the driver side
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Valve covers off, but not cleaned yet. I spent about 30 minutes scrubbing these as best I could. I didn't care as much about the outside as I did the inside. The old gasket was definitely hardened, but had not completely cracked around the perimeter. One piece between the spark plug tubes had fallen off and was sitting on the cam shafts.
ValveCoverGaskets (11).JPG


New Air Surge Tank gasket in place. I spent some time cleaning this big chunk of plastic too. I also ponder if this gasket was leaking unfiltered air into the combustion. The old gasket was still pliable, so maybe not. As you may recall, I had some fuel/air ratio issues six months ago on our trip out west that threw O2 sensor codes on both banks at the same time.
ValveCoverGaskets (12).JPG
 

BMThiker

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You need six of these replacement washers. There are 3 long bolts (also 10mm) that go through the valve cover adjacent to each spark plug tube.
ValveCoverGaskets (14).JPG


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This is the water bypass hose #2 that I recommend updating along with the #4 and #5 that connect to the Throttle Body.
Coolant line No.2.JPG
 

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