Value of a clean non locked 80?
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Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
What year?
- Thread starter
- #3
97'
* creepy Bill Clinton voice * “that depends what your definition of clean is”. People are asking some insane prices for 80 series cause they can’t tell the diff between a built one and a stock one. I’m going to go out on a limb and say every 80 series needs 2-4000$ of work no matter which way you slice it. I’d say 8-12k is average price for a decent one with around 200k odo, the people who are selling them for more than that are smoking crack rocks unless they have service records and proof of a head gasket and timing chain refresh I wouldn’t pay more than 8-12k. Bring someone who is really knowledgeable with these vehicles cause you can really get in trouble buying one unless you have years of wrenching under your belt. I would recommend at least a compression test prior to purchase.
I got mine for 1000$ but it’s slightly rusty but I purchased it with thrashing in mind so the rust wasn’t a deal breaker for me. The front diff was rotten and the lower control arm mount was sheared off on the front diff due to rust thinning out the metal. The rear diff isn’t much better either but it’s not flopping around. I’ve refinished a fresh front diff and remedied the issues up front and I’ve purchased a rear diff assembly and plan on stabbing it when I lift it. Then I will think it will be worth 10k. Not sure if that helps but it may put things into perspective. Also I’ve been a full time mechanic for 20 years so I’m not going to shops to get anything done. If you can’t wrench theses things can get overwhelming financially when I assume a full knuckle refresh from a shop would be around 1-2k and it’s not the type of vehicle you can bring to anyone either. Happy hunting! Where are you located?
Ditto (longer version of above): prices are all over the place, some priced as if they're made out of Gold Pressed Latinum. Most have multiple issues the sellers (if they're not Mud members) are not even aware of and/or they don't think to mention when selling 
Point is, all 80 Series (US Models) are now at least 30 years old, that means everything is 30 years old, from the engine and accessories, transmission, transfer case, differentials, axles, drive shafts, wheel bearings, cooling system (radiator/heater cores, ~20 hoses), complete brake systems (calipers, rotors, flexible brake lines), wiring harnesses (shorts), electrical components (door lock motors, window lift motors), every piece of rubber (moldings, weatherstrips, glass runs, suspension bushings, body mount bushings), springs, interior (carpets, leather, plastic, vinyl dash, seat cushion foam), and the paint/clear coat.
So you have to go into this with your eyes open, don't let the "aura" of owning a 80 Series blind you to the fact that these take a lot of work and a lot of money to keep running reliably. IMO the only way to get into an 80 Series today is to either have a high income with a lot of spare cash to burn (pay someone to do all the work) or learn to do most of the maintenance and repairs yourself, even then you'll spend thousands on parts, tools, etc.
Or to put it simply, you can't assume that just changing all fluids and stuffing a set of oversize tires into the wheel wells will be all you'll need to do.
A reasonable price for a 1993-1997 FZJ80 in the US that is not a basket case or dying of rust IMO could be between $5k-15k in 2026. If you find one for less it likely needs a lot of work which could be a good deal if you can fix it yourself or a money pit if you have to pay a shop. Even then expect to spend a minimum of another $5000+ for parts/repairs/maintenance even if you do most of the work, double or triple that if you pay a LC shop to do that, or more.
One big ticket (potential) item on top of everything else: a head gasket replacement starts at ~$5000, could be double or triple that number if the engine needs to be rebuilt/replaced. Already mentioned above: a complete "front axle service" (Mud term for repacking/replacing wheel bearings, CV joints, axle seals, brake pads, ---) could easily run $2000 and even triple that if a dealer did the work and replaced all the hard parts with new OEM.
At least as important as the mechanical issues is the condition of the body (rust, peeling paint, collision damage, etc) and condition of the interior.
Tip: if you do pick up a 80 Series avoid taking it to a shop that is not familiar with this model. IME the average shop is more likely to misdiagnose (or over-diagnose) the problem which could end up costing you more in the long run. That is the another reason IMHO to learn how to work on one of these yourself (ie: by learning from/reading this forum).
Whatever 80 Series you find get a pre-offer inspection preferably by someone who knows this model.
Point is, all 80 Series (US Models) are now at least 30 years old, that means everything is 30 years old, from the engine and accessories, transmission, transfer case, differentials, axles, drive shafts, wheel bearings, cooling system (radiator/heater cores, ~20 hoses), complete brake systems (calipers, rotors, flexible brake lines), wiring harnesses (shorts), electrical components (door lock motors, window lift motors), every piece of rubber (moldings, weatherstrips, glass runs, suspension bushings, body mount bushings), springs, interior (carpets, leather, plastic, vinyl dash, seat cushion foam), and the paint/clear coat.
So you have to go into this with your eyes open, don't let the "aura" of owning a 80 Series blind you to the fact that these take a lot of work and a lot of money to keep running reliably. IMO the only way to get into an 80 Series today is to either have a high income with a lot of spare cash to burn (pay someone to do all the work) or learn to do most of the maintenance and repairs yourself, even then you'll spend thousands on parts, tools, etc.
Or to put it simply, you can't assume that just changing all fluids and stuffing a set of oversize tires into the wheel wells will be all you'll need to do.
A reasonable price for a 1993-1997 FZJ80 in the US that is not a basket case or dying of rust IMO could be between $5k-15k in 2026. If you find one for less it likely needs a lot of work which could be a good deal if you can fix it yourself or a money pit if you have to pay a shop. Even then expect to spend a minimum of another $5000+ for parts/repairs/maintenance even if you do most of the work, double or triple that if you pay a LC shop to do that, or more.
One big ticket (potential) item on top of everything else: a head gasket replacement starts at ~$5000, could be double or triple that number if the engine needs to be rebuilt/replaced. Already mentioned above: a complete "front axle service" (Mud term for repacking/replacing wheel bearings, CV joints, axle seals, brake pads, ---) could easily run $2000 and even triple that if a dealer did the work and replaced all the hard parts with new OEM.
At least as important as the mechanical issues is the condition of the body (rust, peeling paint, collision damage, etc) and condition of the interior.
Tip: if you do pick up a 80 Series avoid taking it to a shop that is not familiar with this model. IME the average shop is more likely to misdiagnose (or over-diagnose) the problem which could end up costing you more in the long run. That is the another reason IMHO to learn how to work on one of these yourself (ie: by learning from/reading this forum).
Whatever 80 Series you find get a pre-offer inspection preferably by someone who knows this model.
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Preach brother! What he said far more eloquently than me. Better have deep pockets or be handy on that steelDitto (longer version of above): prices are all over the place, some priced as if they're made out of Gold Pressed Latinum. Most have multiple issues the sellers (if they're not Mud members) are not even aware of and/or they don't think to mention when selling
Point is, all 80 Series (US Models) are now at least 30 years old, that means everything is 30 years old, from the engine and accessories, transmission, transfer case, differentials, axles, drive shafts, wheel bearings, cooling system (radiator/heater cores, ~20 hoses), complete brake systems (calipers, rotors, flexible brake lines), wiring harnesses (shorts), electrical components (door lock motors, window lift motors), every piece of rubber (moldings, weatherstrips, glass runs, suspension bushings, body mount bushings), springs, interior (carpets, leather, plastic, vinyl dash, seat cushion foam), and the paint/clear coat.
So you have to go into this with your eyes open, don't let the "aura" of owning a 80 Series blind you to the fact that these take a lot of work and a lot of money to keep running reliably. IMO the only way to get into an 80 Series today is to either have a high income with a lot of spare cash to burn (pay someone to do all the work) or learn to do most of the maintenance and repairs yourself, even then you'll spend thousands on parts, tools, etc.
Or to put it simply, you can't assume that just changing all fluids and stuffing a set of oversize tires into the wheel wells will be all you'll need to do.
A reasonable price for a 1993-1997 FZJ80 in the US that is not a basket case or dying of rust IMO could be between $5k-15k in 2026. If you find one for less it likely needs a lot of work which could be a good deal if you can fix it yourself or a money pit if you have to pay a shop. Even then expect to spend a minimum of another $5000+ for parts/repairs/maintenance even if you do most of the work, double or triple that if you pay a LC shop to do that, or more.
One big ticket (potential) item on top of everything else: a head gasket replacement starts at ~$5000, could be double or triple that number if the engine needs to be rebuilt/replaced. Already mentioned above: a complete "front axle service" (Mud term for repacking/replacing wheel bearings, CV joints, axle seals, brake pads, ---) could easily run $2000 and even triple that if a dealer did the work and replaced all the hard parts with new OEM.
At least as important as the mechanical issues is the condition of the body (rust, peeling paint, collision damage, etc) and condition of the interior.
Tip: if you do pick up a 80 Series avoid taking it to a shop that is not familiar with this model. IME the average shop is more likely to misdiagnose (or over-diagnose) the problem which could end up costing you more in the long run. That is the another reason IMHO to learn how to work on one of these yourself (ie: by learning from/reading this forum).
Whatever 80 Series you find get a pre-offer inspection preferably by someone who knows this model.
- Thread starter
- #9
Ditto (longer version of above): prices are all over the place, some priced as if they're made out of Gold Pressed Latinum. Most have multiple issues the sellers (if they're not Mud members) are not even aware of and/or they don't think to mention when selling
Point is, all 80 Series (US Models) are now at least 30 years old, that means everything is 30 years old, from the engine and accessories, transmission, transfer case, differentials, axles, drive shafts, wheel bearings, cooling system (radiator/heater cores, ~20 hoses), complete brake systems (calipers, rotors, flexible brake lines), wiring harnesses (shorts), electrical components (door lock motors, window lift motors), every piece of rubber (moldings, weatherstrips, glass runs, suspension bushings, body mount bushings), springs, interior (carpets, leather, plastic, vinyl dash, seat cushion foam), and the paint/clear coat.
So you have to go into this with your eyes open, don't let the "aura" of owning a 80 Series blind you to the fact that these take a lot of work and a lot of money to keep running reliably. IMO the only way to get into an 80 Series today is to either have a high income with a lot of spare cash to burn (pay someone to do all the work) or learn to do most of the maintenance and repairs yourself, even then you'll spend thousands on parts, tools, etc.
Or to put it simply, you can't assume that just changing all fluids and stuffing a set of oversize tires into the wheel wells will be all you'll need to do.
A reasonable price for a 1993-1997 FZJ80 in the US that is not a basket case or dying of rust IMO could be between $5k-15k in 2026. If you find one for less it likely needs a lot of work which could be a good deal if you can fix it yourself or a money pit if you have to pay a shop. Even then expect to spend a minimum of another $5000+ for parts/repairs/maintenance even if you do most of the work, double or triple that if you pay a LC shop to do that, or more.
One big ticket (potential) item on top of everything else: a head gasket replacement starts at ~$5000, could be double or triple that number if the engine needs to be rebuilt/replaced. Already mentioned above: a complete "front axle service" (Mud term for repacking/replacing wheel bearings, CV joints, axle seals, brake pads, ---) could easily run $2000 and even triple that if a dealer did the work and replaced all the hard parts with new OEM.
At least as important as the mechanical issues is the condition of the body (rust, peeling paint, collision damage, etc) and condition of the interior.
Tip: if you do pick up a 80 Series avoid taking it to a shop that is not familiar with this model. IME the average shop is more likely to misdiagnose (or over-diagnose) the problem which could end up costing you more in the long run. That is the another reason IMHO to learn how to work on one of these yourself (ie: by learning from/reading this forum).
Whatever 80 Series you find get a pre-offer inspection preferably by someone who knows this model.
Thanks for the input. I've been been in the 25-40 year old Toyota game for quite a while so I know even the most "reliable" rigs are gonna have issues. I do all my own work and outside of rebuilding a bottom end I dont think too many things would scare me. I've been passively looking for an 80 for a few years now. Im in the midwest so finding something not rusted out is tough.
I really would like to post what im looking at since theres a lot of knowledgeable people here but if this forum is like the other vehicle specific forums im part of some vulture might get alerterted and swoop in and steal it
.- Thread starter
- #10
Preach brother! What he said far more eloquently than me. Better have deep pockets or be handy on that steel
Def not rich but know my way around a tool box. I have an old Tundra and a couple old 4runners that never leave me stranded but keep me plenty busy.
Yeah, definitely don't mention which website you found the 80 advertised on, or the location, color, mileage, price, etc. and don't use any of the same words found in the Classified ad, Craigslist, Facebook post, etc. IMO there may be vultures and flippers who watch this website who might do a search online for anything that matches.
Stick to the tech questions, cost for parts, where to buy parts, etc.
There's a very long list of things to check, but here's a few specific to this model (FZJ80):
Don't be too worried about engine oil leaks, if it has a major oil leak it's often from the oil pump cover gasket (O-ring) which is often misdiagnosed as a front crank seal leak, you replace both as the crank pulley/HB has to come off for both. Then there's an O-ring for the snout of the distributor housing that slides into the head, that can leak down onto the distributor. Valve cover gasket if the original for sure is leaking along with spark plug tube seals. Then the oil level sensor gasket, left rear upper oil pan.
Oil dripping off the bellhousing is almost always from the rear arch of the upper oil pan, not the rear main, Fix is to drop both pans and reseal with FIPG.
Coolant leaks, most common is the Pesky Heater Hose (PHH), lots of discussions over the years, a 2" section of 5/8" heater hose on the left rear of the block
under the rear-most intake runner and above the starter; that can be replaced by working from the left front wheel well. There's also a smaller diameter preheat hose just in front of the PHH that runs up to the Throttle Body that should be replaced at the same time IME.
Major power steering leaks are not that common unless someone has for example replaced the PS pump but did not replace the double crush washer for the high pressure hose at the same time (it cannot be reused). Common however to have small seeps from the rear (O-ring, needs a rebuild) or the suction tube port (small O-ring, very easy to replace). Small PS pump seeps can go for years and not get worse.
Check the Heat control valve on the firewall, if original it's way past due to replace, the plastic gets weak from heat/age, often turns brownish/tan, and the side pipes/nipples can snap off without warning. Ditto for the radiator if original.
A common engine code is P0401 (EGR insufficient). IME it doesn't affect how the engine runs, mostly important if your area has annual inspections.
Front axle service (pulling the Birfield type CV joints and axle shafts, new axle seals, knuckle wipers, repack wheel bearings and the CV joint) is often needed on vehicles not owned by enthusiasts. Sounds like you would have no problem with that. Some good videos on the U tube.
Weak window motors is common, pull the door panels, replace. There is an aftermarket device that feeds more voltage to the motors to make them go faster (I forget the name just now).
Check for rust closely; some common areas: if it has a rear hatch dust/wind deflector look at the brackets were they mount to the hatch, rust is prone to start under those brackets, worse in the rust belt. Rear rocker panels, bottom of quarter panels, inside lower edge/lip of doors behind the weatherstrips. If it has a roof rack rust can start under the larger plastic mounts for the side bars. Check the rear wheel wells veru closely for rust, check the inside lip of the hood where the seam sealer is especially behind/under the "nose" of the hood. Check around the windshield and rear hatch glass gasket for rust and rust "bubbles".
Those are some of the main areas that need checking IMO/IME (I've probably forgotten something) on top of all the usual areas you might inspect before buying.
HTHs
Stick to the tech questions, cost for parts, where to buy parts, etc.
There's a very long list of things to check, but here's a few specific to this model (FZJ80):
Don't be too worried about engine oil leaks, if it has a major oil leak it's often from the oil pump cover gasket (O-ring) which is often misdiagnosed as a front crank seal leak, you replace both as the crank pulley/HB has to come off for both. Then there's an O-ring for the snout of the distributor housing that slides into the head, that can leak down onto the distributor. Valve cover gasket if the original for sure is leaking along with spark plug tube seals. Then the oil level sensor gasket, left rear upper oil pan.
Oil dripping off the bellhousing is almost always from the rear arch of the upper oil pan, not the rear main, Fix is to drop both pans and reseal with FIPG.
Coolant leaks, most common is the Pesky Heater Hose (PHH), lots of discussions over the years, a 2" section of 5/8" heater hose on the left rear of the block
under the rear-most intake runner and above the starter; that can be replaced by working from the left front wheel well. There's also a smaller diameter preheat hose just in front of the PHH that runs up to the Throttle Body that should be replaced at the same time IME.
Major power steering leaks are not that common unless someone has for example replaced the PS pump but did not replace the double crush washer for the high pressure hose at the same time (it cannot be reused). Common however to have small seeps from the rear (O-ring, needs a rebuild) or the suction tube port (small O-ring, very easy to replace). Small PS pump seeps can go for years and not get worse.
Check the Heat control valve on the firewall, if original it's way past due to replace, the plastic gets weak from heat/age, often turns brownish/tan, and the side pipes/nipples can snap off without warning. Ditto for the radiator if original.
A common engine code is P0401 (EGR insufficient). IME it doesn't affect how the engine runs, mostly important if your area has annual inspections.
Front axle service (pulling the Birfield type CV joints and axle shafts, new axle seals, knuckle wipers, repack wheel bearings and the CV joint) is often needed on vehicles not owned by enthusiasts. Sounds like you would have no problem with that. Some good videos on the U tube.
Weak window motors is common, pull the door panels, replace. There is an aftermarket device that feeds more voltage to the motors to make them go faster (I forget the name just now).
Check for rust closely; some common areas: if it has a rear hatch dust/wind deflector look at the brackets were they mount to the hatch, rust is prone to start under those brackets, worse in the rust belt. Rear rocker panels, bottom of quarter panels, inside lower edge/lip of doors behind the weatherstrips. If it has a roof rack rust can start under the larger plastic mounts for the side bars. Check the rear wheel wells veru closely for rust, check the inside lip of the hood where the seam sealer is especially behind/under the "nose" of the hood. Check around the windshield and rear hatch glass gasket for rust and rust "bubbles".
Those are some of the main areas that need checking IMO/IME (I've probably forgotten something) on top of all the usual areas you might inspect before buying.
HTHs
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Sounds like your a shoe in happy hunting. Where are you located? It may be worth your time to pay the California tax on a non rusty LA county mall crawler. There is a decent 97 green one floating around market place for 12,000, 237k odo… but as always all the aforementioned advice applies best of luck!!! Just my opinion but I’d stick with a 96-97.
I paid $9k for my '93 with 240k, no lockers and California owned. Pretty darn clean and receipts of upper engine rebuild. I slapped one of our bumpers on it and immediately took it out for a spin on Niagara Rim Trail. Lowrider style lol
I would recommend a 95+ but a good 93-94 isn't terrible.
I would recommend a 95+ but a good 93-94 isn't terrible.
Deep pockets go half the way…, deep sockets bring you home!Preach brother! What he said far more eloquently than me. Better have deep pockets or be handy on that steel
@theglobbThanks for the input. I've been been in the 25-40 year old Toyota game for quite a while so I know even the most "reliable" rigs are gonna have issues. I do all my own work and outside of rebuilding a bottom end I dont think too many things would scare me. I've been passively looking for an 80 for a few years now. Im in the midwest so finding something not rusted out is tough.
I really would like to post what im looking at since theres a lot of knowledgeable people here but if this forum is like the other vehicle specific forums im part of some vulture might get alerterted and swoop in and steal it
My second favorite color of 80 but finding a non faded one today is rare. I’d pay stupidish money for a garage kept 96-97 under 150k central CA vehicle.