Using 8274 Control Solenoid for Cut-off?

C6H12O6

C6H12O6

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I'm to the wiring up stage of my 8274 rebuild project. I replaced the solenoids with an Albright, but I would like to wire up a power cut-off switch inside the cab. Would a left-over control solenoid be acceptable for wiring up a power cut-off between the battery and winch? Seems like it should—continuous duty rated and it should handle the load. Anybody see a problem with this?
 
CruisingSned

CruisingSned

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I'm to the wiring up stage of my 8274 rebuild project. I replaced the solenoids with an Albright, but I would like to wire up a power cut-off switch inside the cab. Would a left-over control solenoid be acceptable for wiring up a power cut-off between the battery and winch? Seems like it should—continuous duty rated and it should handle the load. Anybody see a problem with this?
I was thinking of doing the same thing with my warn. The solenoids are rated to handle the current.
 
C6H12O6

C6H12O6

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Three of the solenoids off one of the winches I'm rebuilding were shot. They sounded like maracas when you shake them. One was good. Solid click testing it, resistance across the 12V posts was in-spec, and wired up it worked perfect. For about 20 minutes. Then, it stuck closed—12V full-time through the solenoid, it was getting warm, and if you hit the remote button, the voltage dropped down to almost zero and it smelled like old. So much for the 45-year-old solenoid. But, it worked great when it was working.

I'm headed out for our local TLCA chapter yearly event tomorrow after work, so I had to bite the bullet and order the Warn interrupt kit so I could get this working again before tomorrow, but I'd be totally confident running a working solenoid.
 
Randy88FJ62

Randy88FJ62

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Why are those interrupter kits so expensive? Just a solenoid and some wiring parts. I wonder where they source their solenoids from.
 
mrldcty

mrldcty

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Its just for safety. In case of some kind of short circuit or physical damage from a collision or something.
I see, gotcha... pretty good case for just moving the contactor relay in next to the battery huh? I mean, why add YAR (yet another relay) to the system when you already have one?
 
gnob

gnob

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Just because your contactor/solenoids are underhood doesn't mean they aren't susceptible to the same risk.
 
mrldcty

mrldcty

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Just because your contactor/solenoids are underhood doesn't mean they aren't susceptible to the same risk.
Then tell me again what the point of adding YAR in front of the main contactors? Isn't it to reduce the risk presented by having live current "sitting proud" on the front of the rig?
 
gnob

gnob

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It absolutely is.
Im just saying leaving a high amp line hanging anywhere could become a problem, either in accidents or whatever else weird shyt life brings.
Is the disco necessary at all? Not really, but some people like to err on the side of safety.
 
mrldcty

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Yeah, I'm at the stage of wiring up my rebuilt 8274 as well, so it's good to discuss. Not sure what I'm going to do yet, but putting the contactors in a box next to the battery seems to be the safer location for it... although, one could make the case that sitting behind a HFS bumper between frame rails isn't terrible either... the area around the battery might just be more of a crumple zone! Plus, there is this: CPSC, Warn Industries Inc. Announce Recall of ATV Winch Kits - https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2001/cpsc-warn-industries-inc-announce-recall-of-atv-winch-kits
 

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