Update: 5W-30 & Heavier Recommended RoTW

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dudemancool1904 said:
LM makes great quality oils. HPL is great quality oil. amsoil makes great quality oils.

You could literally put Walmart/supertech/kirkland 5w30 and be fine. The 3ur is not a tough engine on oil. If putting the fancy stuff in it makes you feel better by all means go ahead. Just change it often.

The only place I would be a real stickler is with the filter. OEM all the way. Most dealers around me charge around 5-6 bucks for an OEM filter. To me that’s a no brainer.
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Yes, besides the oil, was going to stick with OEM components (washer + filter kit) and also convert to the OEM aluminum filter housing while I was going through the process.
 
dms said:
What convinced me to use 5w30 was the factory sticker under the hood of the LC500 which says use only 5w30.
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this you coming back?

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GreatBenzini said:
Out of curiosity, which variant are you using--CK4 Heavy Duty, Passenger Car, Premium Plus Passenger, etc.
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Premium plus pax for me, though if you're not doing extended drain intervals the premium pax car would also be just fine and save a few bucks. It's great stuff made by people who know their craft. If you have any questions, they'd gladly answer to whatever level of detail you'd like.

Not to you, but to anyone reading: please do NOT buy any auto parts from aMa ZOn as there's a ton of counterfeits there.
 
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gasman4u said:
Premium plus pax for me, though if you're not doing extended drain intervals the premium pax car would also be just fine and save a few bucks. It's great stuff made by people who know their craft. If you have any questions, they'd gladly answer to whatever level of detail you'd like.

Not to you, but to anyone reading: please do NOT buy any auto parts from aMa ZOn as there's a ton of counterfeits there.
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Running the same stuff here.

+1 for HPL great company great product.

I usually throw in a corny t shirt with each order.
 
gasman4u said:
Premium plus pax for me, though if you're not doing extended drain intervals the premium pax car would also be just fine and save a few bucks. It's great stuff made by people who know their craft. If you have any questions, they'd gladly answer to whatever level of detail you'd like.

Not to you, but to anyone reading: please do NOT buy any auto parts from aMa ZOn as there's a ton of counterfeits there.
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Holy price premium... is HPL made with unicorn tears? Basically double MolyGen (not including FCP's Lifetime Warranty making oil changes "free").

Unrelated note, anyone try ROWE. Another German option.
 
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Toyota doesn't publish an official spec for their OEM filters (surprise), but they are generally spec'd for 99% @ 25 micron multi-pass efficiency. Is that sufficient? Absolutely. Is it the BEST out there? No it isn't. I guess it is more what are you willing to spend to gain the advantage and if you find a good deal on any of them.

-Fram Ultra Synthetic/Endurance - 99+% @20 microns (no steel mesh backing anymore like the OG ones)
- Wix XP - 99% @23 microns
- Amsoil - 99% @20 microns (has steel mesh backing - expensive)

With synthetic oil filters lasting a lot longer, I might try changing the filer every other change too, since learning that a used filter is better at filtering than a new one and as long as the bypass valve isn't opening, it's actually cleaning your oil better. There is video about it from the Motor Oil Geek who backs all of his findings with actual test data. He actually recommends breaking a new engine this way. Multiple low mileage oil changes (500, 1500, 3000, 5000) without changing the filter until the 5000 mark. Another car guy tested the theory with his own paid for lab testing and found out his break in procedure is spot on.

Bypass test video :
Dirty filters are better (long but informative):
 
Adrenaline6 said:
Toyota doesn't publish an official spec for their OEM filters (surprise), but they are generally spec'd for 99% @ 25 micron multi-pass efficiency. Is that sufficient? Absolutely. Is it the BEST out there? No it isn't. I guess it is more what are you willing to spend to gain the advantage and if you find a good deal on any of them.

-Fram Ultra Synthetic/Endurance - 99+% @20 microns (no steel mesh backing anymore like the OG ones)
- Wix XP - 99% @23 microns
- Amsoil - 99% @20 microns (has steel mesh backing - expensive)

With synthetic oil filters lasting a lot longer, I might try changing the filer every other change too, since learning that a used filter is better at filtering than a new one and as long as the bypass valve isn't opening, it's actually cleaning your oil better. There is video about it from the Motor Oil Geek who backs all of his findings with actual test data. He actually recommends breaking a new engine this way. Multiple low mileage oil changes (500, 1500, 3000, 5000) without changing the filter until the 5000 mark. Another car guy tested the theory with his own paid for lab testing and found out his break in procedure is spot on.

Bypass test video :
Dirty filters are better (long but informative):
Click to expand...

LSJr. has forgotten more about oil/filtration/etc than I'll ever know. Careful with Wix now as they are no longer your dad's Wix of old (First brands/Mann-Hummel casualty). OEM/Amsoil/PG brands make the best filters currently.
 
gasman4u said:
LSJr. has forgotten more about oil/filtration/etc than I'll ever know. Careful with Wix now as they are no longer your dad's Wix of old (First brands/Mann-Hummel casualty). OEM/Amsoil/PG brands make the best filters currently.
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Yeah, I don't use Wix. I have seen positive reviews on the new guy on the block, Pentius with their XL line that is supposed to be pretty well made and at a good price point.

I do wish that Toyota/Lexus would have had air filter change indicators now that they have mentioned them. Makes so much sense and why change the filter early if it is protecting your engine better?
 
Adrenaline6 said:
Yeah, I don't use Wix. I have seen positive reviews on the new guy on the block, Pentius with their XL line that is supposed to be pretty well made and at a good price point.
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I haven't used them on the 5.7L yet, but the quality of their other offerings for Honda's, etc is impressive from Carquest.
 
Is there an easy to cut the top off a filter to examine the contents?
 
dms said:
Is there an easy to cut the top off a filter to examine the contents?
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drain any excess oil off, wrap in some sort of paper towels with rubber bands/folded just so and let them wick the oil from the media (replacing as needed), then use a hacksaw.

Or just skip the drying out part and jump straight in with your hacksaw! Happy cutting!
 
I was thinking that there was some type of pipe cutter that people were using. A hacksaw makes sense.
 
Pipe cutter for metal filter canister.

Ours don’t have the metal can..
 
I forgot that the 200s don't have the can. I had my LX600 in mind.
 
dms said:
Thanks, that is perfect. I never knew a dedicated tool existed. Now I can try to find out how much "debris" is circulating in my TTV6.
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that's one engine I would NOT push past 5k oil change intervals regardless of how it's been driven. Godspeed nonetheless.
 
gasman4u said:
that's one engine I would NOT push past 5k oil change intervals regardless of how it's been driven. Godspeed nonetheless.
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I have never gone past 5K. I wish I knew of the brake in procedure that is being recommended by members. It sounds like a good idea. Amsoil sells some brake in oil that I may consider if I ever buy another new car (or when I get my new TTV6 engine from the recall)
 
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