Wow, I bet that is getting expencive. A fiew more of those and you could have paid for SAS.
Turbo Surf Diff Woes!
- Thread starter BoostingLux
- Start date
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SAS won't cure skinny pedal disease.
Lockers and airing down while keeping engine revs in a reasonable range may both help avoiding the temptation to mash the skinny pedal into oblivion. A set of tire chains for all wheels may also help. I use them here on the farm.
Lockers and airing down while keeping engine revs in a reasonable range may both help avoiding the temptation to mash the skinny pedal into oblivion. A set of tire chains for all wheels may also help. I use them here on the farm.
- Thread starter
- #23
yeah im not "smashing the skinny pedal". noone here has seen how i drive so cant really comment. its clearly a weak point in these trucks as almost everyone i know who goes offroading in IFS surfs has blown a diff or 2 
. im going to weld up a front diff when i can get one spare and install manual locking hubs and see how that goes for me. these a crap load of work involved in a SAS conversion and i dont think its really worth it for me, if it gets to that point ill just sell my surf and buy a dcab ute or scab ute and get manual hubs and SAS as standard. i was hoping somone would have a trick or 2 up there sleeves to maybe mod the diff to make it stronger or something.
. ill lock the front and get a air or mechanical loacker for the rear at some point, this way i wont have to power thru the tuff stuff as ill have tru 4wheel drive not 2 wheel. 
I can't remember if someone else said it but you should try to build a weak link into your system that is easier and cheaper to replace.
If you change it over to manual hubs and can put in some weak one that would be good, You would blow up the hubs first before axle shafts or gears. Way easier and cheaper to change out. Plus they don't take up much space to carry spares. Don't use asain hubs, maybe warn, but look for the weakest hubs you can find, I mean cheap crap man.
Another option may be to build in some kind of sheer pin system into your front drive line. You would want a drive line hoop keeper so it would not swing around after it breaks but this may be a solution. Switching out drive lines in the field is not to hard or expensive compared to a front diff and gears.
Man If I lived down there I would have a HJ70 land-cruiser pickup, or HJ60 Land-cruiser.
If you change it over to manual hubs and can put in some weak one that would be good, You would blow up the hubs first before axle shafts or gears. Way easier and cheaper to change out. Plus they don't take up much space to carry spares. Don't use asain hubs, maybe warn, but look for the weakest hubs you can find, I mean cheap crap man.
Another option may be to build in some kind of sheer pin system into your front drive line. You would want a drive line hoop keeper so it would not swing around after it breaks but this may be a solution. Switching out drive lines in the field is not to hard or expensive compared to a front diff and gears.
Man If I lived down there I would have a HJ70 land-cruiser pickup, or HJ60 Land-cruiser.
I did that to a Toyota 8" diff. I was told that part of the problem is that it was set up too loose. We set my next one up with much tighter tolerences and have not had any problems.
- Thread starter
- #26
haha if money wasnt an object i would too! a surf like mines worth about 4000. a SAS ute is worth about 8000, a 70series ute is upwards of 15,000
$15K, Damn, I guess I would be driving a surf or HJ60 just like I do here in the states.
- Thread starter
- #28
haha yeah, but over here ud have a good motor like a 2lte, or 1kzte or a 1hdt not puss 22re 
gotta love the JDM motors
gotta love the JDM motors
2lte is not a good motor. 22re not powerful but über reliable
- Thread starter
- #30
id have to dissagree with you there, i know there are alot of 2ltes that crack heads etc but ive had mine for over 2 years now, it has a boost tap set to 13psi and it runs great. never missed a beat. ive had a few lil issues like intake and exhaust gaskets but nothing major. ive overheated it a few times when ive pierced the radiator and such and ive pk tested it and its fine. maybe ive just been lucky but i think its a good motor. has enough power and its reliable. like a said maybe i just lucked out and got a good one, but yeah not as bad as all the press they get.
edit: oh and its done 287,000km so its no spring chicken!
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Easy, now.
It's not Toyota's best motor, but it's a good one.
I'd take two 2LT-E's over a 3VZ-E, but I'd rather have the 2LII-T with no electronics. Alot easier to work on and with, and the rumor is that the non-electronic 2L had less head cracking machines.
- Thread starter
- #32
Ive now sold this rig and perchased a 1kz powered one. upon doing a full service on it before i ever took it off road half of 3 teeth fell out when i was changing the diff oil. pre loved!
screw it
i welded up the spiders properly in the new diff, with plates and all and this runs great!. hardly notice any difference in steering off road at all. on road in 4wd its SHOCKING but it was to be expected. and i never use 4wd on road so its all good. im more than happy with the job. and hopefully now by removing the need for wheelspin, and the shock as a single spinning wheel grips, i should keep my crown wheel intaced. plus i now have a rear lockrite and have adjusted my driving acordingly. so just if anyones curious, IT CAN BE DONE
screw it
i welded up the spiders properly in the new diff, with plates and all and this runs great!. hardly notice any difference in steering off road at all. on road in 4wd its SHOCKING but it was to be expected. and i never use 4wd on road so its all good. im more than happy with the job. and hopefully now by removing the need for wheelspin, and the shock as a single spinning wheel grips, i should keep my crown wheel intaced. plus i now have a rear lockrite and have adjusted my driving acordingly. so just if anyones curious, IT CAN BE DONE