transmission/tps/something else problem

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J

jbrookes80

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hey guys, i have a problem with my 97 1fz fe. when i am driving up hills and i am accelerating, i either can’t accelerate and it bogs down or i am full throttle revving and there is no inbetween. not sure if it’s the throttle position sensor or something to do with the transmission. any help appreciated cheers
 
SpenserAK

SpenserAK

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Juneau, Alaska
How does it behave otherwise?

Do you know if the throttle & kickdown cables have been adjusted?
 
J

jbrookes80

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melbourne australia
How does it behave otherwise?

Do you know if the throttle & kickdown cables have been adjusted?
ive fiddled with them a bit and it doesn’t seem to make a difference, it only really gets bad when it gets hot after driving up hills for a while
 
Malleus

Malleus

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If you're accelerating under load (driving uphill) and the rpms go up but the speed doesn't, your clutches are slipping. Does it help to downshift manually when this happens?

If you accelerate but the rpms go down you have a completely different problem, with quite a few potential root causes.

As a first attempt, and because I know most people don't do this regularly, try changing your ATF. Pull the drain plug and let it drain overnight, or even several days if you can. You should be able to get 2-3 quarts out this way. The remainder has to be pumped out.

You can use the transmission to pump the old oil out and the new oil in. Disconnect the oil cooler (paperclip) inlet line and route that to a gallon container, marked in quarts on the outside. This will help you fill at the same rate the transmission is pumping out. Turn the engine on and let the magic happen; I cycle the process so that I'm not adding more than 2 quarts at a time. Make sure you don't get more than a quart behind the pump as you refill.

As you get to the last quart, according to your waste container(s), go slowly. It's easy to overfill the transmission. Button it up afterwards and see if the new fluid makes any difference. If it does, chances are you also have an internal wear problem.

Used ATF makes a really good rust remover. You should have lots to share with friends and family after this.
 
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ppc

ppc

M Go Blue
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Nashville, TN
You can use the transmission to pump the old oil out and the new oil in. Disconnect the oil cooler (paperclip) inlet line and route that to a gallon container, marked in quarts on the outside. This will help you fill at the same rate the transmission is pumping out. Turn the engine on and let the magic happen; I cycle the process so that I'm not adding more than 2 quarts at a time. Make sure you don't get more than a quart behind the pump as you refill.

Please edit your post above. The "paperclip" cooler is the cooler for the power steering, mounted below the radiator. The transmission cooler is located in front of the radiator towards the top of driver's side on LHD vehicles, not sure if that changes or gets reversed with RHD vehicles.
 
Malleus

Malleus

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Jan 5, 2017
Messages
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Please edit your post above. The "paperclip" cooler is the cooler for the power steering, mounted below the radiator. The transmission cooler is located in front of the radiator towards the top of driver's side on LHD vehicles, not sure if that changes or gets reversed with RHD vehicles.
Sorry, when you get to be as old as me, everything looks the same.
 
SpenserAK

SpenserAK

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Juneau, Alaska
Agreed on starting with some basics like trans fluid, if it hasn’t been done recently. Less important side note, I think it’s the FSM that says something like ~2-3qt, but I always get 4.5-4.75qt with a drain/fill
 
J

jbrookes80

Joined
Nov 2, 2021
Messages
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Location
melbourne australia
If you're accelerating under load (driving uphill) and the rpms go up but the speed doesn't, your clutches are slipping. Does it help to downshift manually when this happens?

If you accelerate but the rpms go down you have a completely different problem, with quite a few potential root causes.

As a first attempt, and because I know most people don't do this regularly, try changing your ATF. Pull the drain plug and let it drain overnight, or even several days if you can. You should be able to get 2-3 quarts out this way. The remainder has to be pumped out.

You can use the transmission to pump the old oil out and the new oil in. Disconnect the oil cooler (paperclip) inlet line and route that to a gallon container, marked in quarts on the outside. This will help you fill at the same rate the transmission is pumping out. Turn the engine on and let the magic happen; I cycle the process so that I'm not adding more than 2 quarts at a time. Make sure you don't get more than a quart behind the pump as you refill.

As you get to the last quart, according to your waste container(s), go slowly. It's easy to overfill the transmission. Button it up afterwards and see if the new fluid makes any difference. If it does, chances are you also have an internal wear problem.

Used ATF makes a really good rust remover. You should have lots to share with friends and family after this.
yea it’s the second one, the rpms go down then it down shifts and it goes like a bay out of hell, i have no idea when the atf was changed so i’ll look at doing that. thanks
 
jfz80

jfz80

#shenanigans
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Jun 5, 2005
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Madison NC
I would not discount solenoids either or harness connectors as well

I had a similar issue only when cold out or on first a cell. For the harness: The 2 large square connectors above starter (PITA) and the large flat 16 (?) pin connector on pass side I believe goes to neutral safety switch. Cleaning these remedied my issues for about a year. I may have to inspect integrity of connectors closer this time as some folks have found a broken pin here.
 

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