Transmission Filter Intervals?

Transmission Filter Intervals?

  • Only Change the Fluid-NO Filter Change

    Votes: 34 54.8%
  • Every 50K

    Votes: 8 12.9%
  • Every 100K

    Votes: 1 1.6%
  • Never Have Changed The Filtrer-Just Run It

    Votes: 19 30.6%

  • Total voters
    62

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beno said:
Once a year, I drop the pan, clean it out and clean the filter out too. Worth it in my opinion.

I change out tranny fluid every other oil change.

Wow. And I thought I might be the most anal on this one...

But seriously, with the lack of options when your A440F goes south (don't know about later models) It seems like AAAP (As Anal As Possible) is the way to go. :D

Here's what I do: Every 20k I get a tranny filter kit from Napa. The replacement screen is identical to OEM (yes, you can reuse OEM), it has the little paper gasket, AND (I think this is cool) it has a thick rubber gasket that goes all the way around the pan! No FIPG needed; no leaks! :) Refill with about 7qts ATF.

Cheers,

Curtis
 
CJF said:
Wow. And I thought I might be the most anal on this one...

But seriously, with the lack of options when your A440F goes south (don't know about later models) It seems like AAAP (As Anal As Possible) is the way to go. :D

Here's what I do: Every 20k I get a tranny filter kit from Napa. The replacement screen is identical to OEM (yes, you can reuse OEM), it has the little paper gasket, AND (I think this is cool) it has a thick rubber gasket that goes all the way around the pan! No FIPG needed; no leaks! :) Refill with about 7qts ATF.

Cheers,

Curtis

I don't know if I consider it anal (I do...;) ) but, I am trying to get the most out of a vehicle that wants and needs attention for optimum performance.

I believe I read it here (though I cannot recall), but some one had mentioned that NY City taxi drivers regularly put 100K+ miles per year on their vehicles and one of them mentioned that the most important thing for the vehicle is constant vigilance with keeping the tranny cool (I believe Jimmy's thread on his tranny rebuild confirmed this for me)--which means, constant fluid changes and aggressive PM.

Just my opinion and this PM is worth my time and hard earned $$$.

Cheers.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
If you go though the trouble of dropping the pan you might as well do a complete flush - takes maybe another 20 minutes and that's because you can't pour ATF any faster into that tiny hole. Run a full synthetic ATF fluid such as Amsoil, Mobil 1 etc. and that in itself lowers your transmission fluid temperture and extends your drain interval. There's a couple additives on the market, which will also assist your transmission in lowering temperture etc. - one is LubeGard, I'd suggest the black bottle although some prefer the Red bottle. IMO a complete flush with a full synthetic plus a black bottle of lubegard will last 50/60K, then do a pan flush add a red bottle of lubegard(2 black bottles aren't recommended for Toyota trannies), go another 40/50K then do another complete flush etc. I've never had a transmission failure and I've run two autotrannies over 300K without a rebuild. Right now I have two Toys (Sequoia/Tundra)with 130K & 115K and plan on running both over 300K using the method I just described. I recently acquired a '95 LC with 121K and immediately changed all fluids over to full synthetics - when I dropped the pan I was surprised to find just a small amount of gunk on the magnets, which is what I would have expected to see if one ran a full synthetic over that time period. I prefer synthetics for the "extra edge" of protection it offers under severe conditions and with the extended drain the cost is about the same so why not?
 
Curtis,

Any more details on this NAPA option? That sounds like a winner, but I'm wondering if the gasket and paper gasket are available separately as I'd rather just reuse the factory screen in there.

Also, nobody else mentioned a paper gasket?? Is there a paper gasket needed when removing the screen? Any other surprises you losers are 'forgetting' to mention?

DougM
 
No paper gasket that I could remember.

Here's a pic of the filter--only one screen is visible. One about the same size on the other side, opposite end.

-o-
P4070005.webp
 
Magnefine Trans filter

Any of you guys ever use a product called magnefine ...it's a in-line trans and power steering filter ...it has a internal magnet ...
Magnefine is a company that sells this product to napa , ford , gm ect...
It's gose in line off the return line of the trans .
Greg
 
I haven't run an inline filter but I've heard both the Magnefine or SPX Filtran in-line filters won't cause any problems as to flow capability and several people have stated they see less gunk on their magnets when they drop their pan in preparation for a full flush. Over on the Tundra board http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/

they have discussed it some and several members have been running the Magnefine for several years now with no complaints.
 
IdahoDoug said:
Curtis,

Any more details on this NAPA option? That sounds like a winner, but I'm wondering if the gasket and paper gasket are available separately as I'd rather just reuse the factory screen in there.

Also, nobody else mentioned a paper gasket?? Is there a paper gasket needed when removing the screen? Any other surprises you losers are 'forgetting' to mention?

DougM

91-92 (A440F), at least, has a paper(?) gasket between the filter and the valve body.

Don't know if the parts from the kit could be purchased separately; probably worth asking, now that you mention it! I guess I just figured what the heck, won't hurt to throw a new screen in every two years.

No other surpises, just lots and lots o' bolts. :)

Oh, and I'm surprised none of us has mentioned this yet: it'll keep dripping. Literally for days. Don't bother trying to wait for it to stop!

Curtis
 
For what it's worth, one of my mechanics swears it is this lack of a real filter that explains the longevity of Toyota automatic transmissions vs. US-built transmissions with their Dacron filters, etc. . His contention is that the filter is essentially useless, and that the Dacron filters clog, restricting ATF to the transmission, leading to overheating, then early transmission death. He believed, based on experience, that transmissions rarely fail due to presence of fines (his phrase) in the ATF, but that starving the transmission of fluid damn sure did. He swore that he'd only seen about one Toyota or other foriegn transmission through his shop to every nine or so US-built ones.
 
Can you use brake cleaner (spray) to clean the pan?

I used brake cleaner to wash the magnets, pans, and filter screen with outstanding results. Brake cleaner will do just fine.
 
To go along with the logic of this thread:

"As a rule of thumb, transmission fluid should last 100,000 miles if the
operating temperature remains no higher than 175°F. For every 20
degrees of temperature increase, the projected service life of the fluid is
cut in half. For example, if operating temperature is allowed to remain
at 195°F, the service life of the fluid would be 50,000 miles." Source: TIS
 
I just drain and re-fill every 7500 miles. I use Mobil 1.

This thread just reminded me, I am out of Mobil 1 ATF...need to re-stock!
 
If you only do the drain/refill PM, is it ok to mix regular ATF and Synthetic ATF? Or this is a no-no?

When we got the HDJ81, the tranny pan was dropped/cleaned and filled with regular ATF. But with this statement, if I use Synthetic, I'm going to get some benefit.

....Run a full synthetic ATF fluid such as Amsoil, Mobil 1 etc. and that in itself lowers your transmission fluid temperture and extends your drain interval. ....

I would like to get synthetic ATF on the rig but am not to keen on doing another flush since I only had 5,000 kms on the current ATF.
 
For what it's worth, one of my mechanics swears it is this lack of a real filter that explains the longevity of Toyota automatic transmissions vs. US-built transmissions with their Dacron filters, etc. . His contention is that the filter is essentially useless, and that the Dacron filters clog, restricting ATF to the transmission, leading to overheating, then early transmission death. He believed, based on experience, that transmissions rarely fail due to presence of fines (his phrase) in the ATF, but that starving the transmission of fluid damn sure did. He swore that he'd only seen about one Toyota or other foriegn transmission through his shop to every nine or so US-built ones.

Very interesting thoughts on this.

I about freaked when I called the stealership for a price on a tranny filter for my '94. When we got into it and realized we could wash the filter and reinstall it, we were glad we didn't fork over the money.

We change fluid every spring--25,000 miles or so on the fluid.
 
Beno,

Lucky for me I decided to read this thread. I've been functioning the last 4-5 years or so with the idea that I couldn't drop my tranny pan without busting my filter, and as I don't have source for a replacement, I've been flushing it out with a machine that pumps fluid in as it sucks it out. Uses twice the normal amount that way.

As soon as I'm able, I'm going to drop my pan and see what I see inside.


Kalawang
 
No paper gasket that I could remember.

Hmm.. I've been curious about the gaskets too. The FSM only makes reference to them in one of their "Hints"... replace gaskets between screen and valve body. My Chiltons manual actually shows a sketch with three small gaskets on the upper side of the filter.

Anybody else with the later model transmissions noticed or not noticed the gaskets?

Thanks,
Rookie2
 
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