transfercase seal still leaking

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Joined
Mar 12, 2005
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287
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Location
Littleton, Colorado
OK on my dads 40, we replaced the rear transfercase seal and its still leaking? heres some pictures, is this what its supposed to look like? if not where did we go wrong?
IMG_5975.webp
 
Steve - Just checked - it's grooved - do any vendors sell speedi sleeves and do they work, or must I find another drum?
Thanks!



SOR has them....but your local CarQuest or Napa should be able to source you one also....




Chicago Rawhide, or CR number 99177 is the speedi-sleeve you will need....From the tech links.




And pay no attention to the BS in there about a different speedi-sleeve for the 74 and later. All Land Cruiser one-piece transfer cases from 1963 to 1980 use the same output seal, and the same speedi-sleeve on the parking brake drum.
 
I secured one from Napa, took my drum in and they measured it, I use rtv around the end of the splines just before installing the washer and nut, keeps the oil from escaping via the splines.:cool: Cruise-on, Fuzz
 
That does not look too bad really...

When the drum is on and the nut is torqued, is there any vertical play? Does it move up and down? If so, your bearings are worn and or out of spec and will need to be adjusted with shims that are installed between that parking brake mounting casting and the race of the rear output bearing, or replaced if they are worn too much. This could be the reason for your seal not keeping oil in the case. The seal wear area on that really does not look that bad. Can you feel a groove?
 
The shim does not center the shaft or the parking brake drum...they create the proper pre-load for the transfer case main shaft bearings.


The shims that I am talking about are between the steel casting that the parking brake backing plate attaches to, and the rear main shaft bearing in the transfer case. If that steel housing that the seal is in is not removed from the case you will not see these shims.


Since you state that the parking brake drum does not have any play in it when it is installed on the transfer case, then you do not need to worry about these shims.
 
I fight this same issue and with Steve's and others notes I will check a few other things. Mudrak has a two seal option for the parking brake that I have been tempted to get. Assuming that all other possibilites are in order. Any feedback on this product.
 
I fight this same issue and with Steve's and others notes I will check a few other things. Mudrak has a two seal option for the parking brake that I have been tempted to get. Assuming that all other possibilites are in order. Any feedback on this product.

Well, I installed the Mudrak double seal & mine still leaks. I've tried the speedi route too previously, no worky. Even tried sealing around the nut with gobs of POR15 paint, still leaks. No play in the shaft, so I don't know what to look for next. I think I will put some POR15 Patch around the nut or use some teflon tape around the threads & see if that finally stops it.
 
Poser, my seal surface is grooved on only one side--pretty deep, the other side shows where the seal rides, but there is no groove even to catch a fingernail on. Any idea what caused that? Thanks!
drum1.webp
drum2.webp
 
I did the double seal trick and a Speedy Sleeve...problem solved for 6 years and counting. For the double seal, I used a die grinder to remove the lip inside the casting enabling two seal to be pressed in. I had it done before I could have found a box.
 
Okay, really naive question - what exactly causes this scoring of the drum "shaft"?

The combination of the abrasiveness of a rubber seal coming in contact with the sealing surface and varying amounts of freeplay in the shaft from how the output bearing pre-load is set.
 
I've got the same issue but I gave up on it. I am saving to go auto & chevy case.

second option rebuild the 77 T-case & mudrak double seal.

My oil leaks are the little one but I am still replaceing it.

what happens if we put a emergency break disc conversion?

would that solve it? no more drum!

I have rear break disc conversion, can I eliminate the drum? if so how?

how do they do it with emergency break disc conversion?

any input will be appreciated.

Thanks
 
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