Transfer Shifter Clearance Issues

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Dec 2, 2004
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Athol, MA
I recently installed a 2" body lift on my 97 and have run into a problem with the transfercase shifter not going or staying in Low range. I new this would be an issue ahead of time and this is what I need to know. There is a round shaft about 1/2 inch in diameter that comes out of the top of the transfercase and then transitions into the larger diameter black bodied shaft that you see sticking through the leather boot. Is the larger shaft just screwed onto the smaller shaft? I tried removing it with a pipe wrench but didn't want to reef on it too much in case they are not just threaded together. I know as a last resort I can heat the smaller of the two shafts and bend it to a more virticle angle.
 
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Do you have a problem getting it to stay in low range without the extra boot and center console installed?

The pic looks as though the tranny tunnel has been dented where low range is. Is that from you working the shifter with the wrench or is that what it takes for it to stay in low range?
 
The problem isn't that it hits on the body, the problem is that it hits on the cross bar linkage that runs from the transmission shifter to the passengers side of the tunnel.
 
They are not threaded together at all. Inbetween the smaller shaft and the black one is rubber for vibration dampening. They are somehow "glued together" by the rubber inside. Maybe hot liquid rubber is pored in and then cooled, I'm not sure, but its a strong grip.

The same shifter setup is on my supra for the 5spd. It is common on them to pull apart the 2 shafts and then put on a shift knob with a set screw. This allows for a lower shifter in that case. TO get them apart you have to heat the smaller shaft and use vice grips to twist the other one.
So, if you pull them apart, your shift lever will be shorter and it will not be threaded. But there is always the option of welding on an extension. Problem is then you'll have a shifter that will vibrate more in your hand. Yes.. I'm still talking about the transfer case shifter :)
 
You can call Marlin Crawler and see if they can modify it into a short throw shifter for the LC. I just put a 1.5" BL on my 4Runner and ran into a similar problem...I can't get into low range because it is hitting the front lip of the opening. The only issue is that you have to pull the shifter from the transfer case and send it to them for the mod. I'm contacting them on Monday about doing mine.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/transfercase/tcase_ac.htm (middle of the page)
 
Does anyone see a problem with heating it up right in the vehicle with a torch and bending it while it is still hot? I'm thinking ice cold rags around the shaft where it goes into the transfer case and only heat it as long (short) as possible to get it to bend.
 
Without rolling around on the ground I don't have an answer for you right now. I think I would avoid the torch while the shifter is in the truck. Something else to consider in using the heat is altering the temper of the shifter steel.

This is when we need some input from Ammo or Christo as they both have the 2" body lift.

With the 1" body lift I didn't have any issues with the shifters.
 
If you don't want to extend yours you could do what I did and cut it right off at the narrow part and turned it 180 degrees and weld it right back on. This allows the shifter to fully operate and still fit inside the opening. Some slight trimming may be required. Mine has never failed me yet.

Sounds like I still have the prize for the shortest stubby :eek:
 
actionjackson said:
If you don't want to extend yours you could do what I did and cut it right off at the narrow part and turned it 180 degrees and weld it right back on. This allows the shifter to fully operate and still fit inside the opening. Some slight trimming may be required. Mine has never failed me yet.

Sounds like I still have the prize for the shortest stubby :eek:


Exactly what I did with my 2" body...mine is pretty short and stubby might give you a run for your money on that one:whoops: ...the boot cover about half the shift knob.:eek:....but I don't care to compare you can win this one shawn.
 
I like the idea of cutting it off and turning it. This sounds much better than the torch method. I assume I would have to cut it off lower down on the shaft where it actually bends towards the rear, rotate 180 dgress and weld back together.
 
MSGGrunt said:
The problem isn't that it hits on the body, the problem is that it hits on the cross bar linkage that runs from the transmission shifter to the passengers side of the tunnel.


having no real experience here, I thought I'd throw this out anyway. Have you considered spacing the tranny shifter where it mounts to the top of the transmission differently to avoid the interference problem.
 
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