Trac Off, Check Engine, 4LO blinking - P00015 - Camshaft Position B Code

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kengalbraith

kengalbraith

Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Threads
19
Messages
104
Location
Santa Fe, NM
Hi all, new to me LX570, had it for about a month so far. Love the thing. Still working on baselining. During highway driving about a week ago, the Trac Off, Check Engine, and 4LO lights all came on - with the 4LO blinking. Pulled over, read some threads, the internet gave me various answers from check the gas cap (checked, didn't seem terrible but going to order a new one anyway) to clear it and drive around in 4LO (seemed nuts but I did it). Drove to the nearest autozone and pulled a P0015, which is:

Camshaft Position 'B' Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1​


Did some more googling which basically says either your timing or your sensor is bad. Also read somewhere that dirty or low oil would throw this? Truck seems to be running just fine (no hesitation, knock, loss of power but then again its pretty new to me). Drove home, lights went out the next day. Came back on again today. Planning on taking it to my local guy when I can get it in, but wanted to know if anyone had any advice on what I should be looking at, or just general knowledge about the issue so I can go to the mechanic with a better idea of what he's going to be looking at.

Couple other questions if you are still reading - anyone know if there is a general place to put a timing belt replace sticker? I popped the hood, didn't see one anywhere obvious. Is there some secret spot with this truck that it might be? I'll have the mechanic take a look as well when its in, truck has 160k on it so hopefully it did but if not i'll get it done.

Also - anyone know an OEM part number for the gas cap? I found a bunch for sale but am not sure which is OEM.

Thanks all!
 
kengalbraith said:
Hi all, new to me LX570, had it for about a month so far. Love the thing. Still working on baselining. During highway driving about a week ago, the Trac Off, Check Engine, and 4LO lights all came on - with the 4LO blinking. Pulled over, read some threads, the internet gave me various answers from check the gas cap (checked, didn't seem terrible but going to order a new one anyway) to clear it and drive around in 4LO (seemed nuts but I did it). Drove to the nearest autozone and pulled a P0015, which is:

Camshaft Position 'B' Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1​


Did some more googling which basically says either your timing or your sensor is bad. Also read somewhere that dirty or low oil would throw this? Truck seems to be running just fine (no hesitation, knock, loss of power but then again its pretty new to me). Drove home, lights went out the next day. Came back on again today. Planning on taking it to my local guy when I can get it in, but wanted to know if anyone had any advice on what I should be looking at, or just general knowledge about the issue so I can go to the mechanic with a better idea of what he's going to be looking at.

Couple other questions if you are still reading - anyone know if there is a general place to put a timing belt replace sticker? I popped the hood, didn't see one anywhere obvious. Is there some secret spot with this truck that it might be? I'll have the mechanic take a look as well when its in, truck has 160k on it so hopefully it did but if not i'll get it done.

Also - anyone know an OEM part number for the gas cap? I found a bunch for sale but am not sure which is OEM.

Thanks all!
Click to expand...

First off, you have a timing chain and not a belt.

I’m not much help on your code. If you really want to dig in you should download the FSM and check out the t shooting steps for that code.
 
Hard to troubleshoot remotely. My guess would be the cam position sensor going bad. Not uncommon for position sensors to go bad in the automotive world. Second guess would be a vvt actuator going out. Least likely seems jumping a tooth in timing. Vehicle would be very unhappy and would not recover.

Probably just need to let your mech lay hands on to get to the bottom.
 
lx200inAR said:
First off, you have a timing chain and not a belt.

I’m not much help on your code. If you really want to dig in you should download the FSM and check out the t shooting steps for that c
Click to expand...
daneo said:
Hard to troubleshoot remotely. My guess would be the cam position sensor going bad. Not uncommon for position sensors to go bad in the automotive world. Second guess would be a vvt actuator going out. Least likely seems jumping a tooth in timing. Vehicle would be very unhappy and would not recover.

Probably just need to let your mech lay hands on to get to the bottom.
Click to expand...
Thanks, thats the plan then!
 
Terrifying update - my oil pressure sensor is not registering. I called my local mechanic, who can't get me in for two weeks (welcome to NM). He tells me in the meantime, change the oil and make sure you use 0-20W synth. He said he often sees people run the wrong oil weight and cause issues. So, I change the oil (added my new fumitomo valve) and clear the codes. Suddenly, I have oil pressure again, which is terrifying that I was maybe running the truck without it. I cleared the codes and they have not come back (yet, and im not planning on driving it much before my mechanic sees the truck). Fun times.

Also maybe worth a mention - it just got cold here when all this started. Not sure if that had any effect.
 
RET2 said:
Couple of questions, how much oil was removed and condition/color?
Click to expand...
Oil was low. Not sure how i missed that when I checked the dipstick. About 6 quarts came out. Surprised b/c i havent noticed it dropping anything but could be burning it I suppose. Not sure about the condition cause idk what to look for, but definitely darker then the stuff that went in. Like a medium roast coffee maybe?

Also something I thought was kinda strange - the filter was real twisted up. Not sure if that matters. Ive only done a few oil changes but never noticed that:

64421E52-37F0-4AC9-8505-8917D94A5339.webp
 
32cls6speedmt said:
Where did you purchase filter from?

Click to expand...

This was the filter that was in the truck when i bought it. Got the new one from autozone.
Just watched this video - holy s*** this is terrifying. I definitely dont have the ticking but i did have the vvti bank issue. Praying it doesnt come back! About to go buy a stack of filters from the dealer.
So far, codes havent come back. My most current issue is the oil pressure gauge idles around 25% - when I accelerate, will move to 50%, then back down to 25%. This seems not great but did some forum searching. Found a 100 thread that said its fine…
 
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Also - looking at a video i noticed there is a mesh cylinder in the filter housing that my truck does not have (like in the attached picture). Anyone know what that is and if i should have it?
C3A19520-CE69-40EE-B7AE-6B144331F5E3.webp
 
kengalbraith said:
Also - looking at a video i noticed there is a mesh cylinder in the filter housing that my truck does not have (like in the attached picture). Anyone know what that is and if i should have it?View attachment 3153709
Click to expand...

That’s what keeps the filter from collapsing under suction
 
kengalbraith said:
My most current issue is the oil pressure gauge idles around 25% - when I accelerate, will move to 50%, then back down to 25%. This seems not great but did some forum searching. Found a 100 thread that said its fine…
Click to expand...

Perfectly normal for the 200 Series.

HTH
 
My Guess, is whoever changed the oil last made a few mistakes:
1) Pulled out the metal tube and threw away with old filter (I guess this would be easy to do if you had no business changing oil and weren't paying attention)
2) Underfilled the oil (probably put in one of those 5+ Quart jugs and didn't fully drain to start with)

I wouldn't drive around with the filter installed improperly (without the metal tube), but you have been already.

All you can do now is put it right and see if the codes come back...

Did you purchase the truck from a dealer? If so it might be worth contacting them, if nothing else they need to audit their service department if they were the last ones to change the oil on the vehicle.
 
Update: ordered the OEM filter (which was plastic as opposed to metal) and changed the oil with the proper amount.

Old:
D9D53685-F9F7-48C7-9D8D-CB09026E52DA.webp


New:
EC718B13-500D-41C8-8BE5-72BE144045FF.webp


Had my mechanic inspect the truck, he said everything looks good, and basically said the same thing @TimCFJ40 said, drive it and see if the codes come back. The internet remains undefeated…
 
kengalbraith said:
Update: ordered the OEM filter (which was plastic as opposed to metal) and changed the oil with the proper amount.

Old:
View attachment 3170328

New:
View attachment 3170329

Had my mechanic inspect the truck, he said everything looks good, and basically said the same thing @TimCFJ40 said, drive it and see if the codes come back. The internet remains undefeated…
Click to expand...
Check that aluminum cap for any Dorman markings and if not; it could be genuine Toyota and better than the plastic part you got. Just move the filter support tube over to the aluminum part. Whatever you do dork overtorque the plastic part. 18ft-lbf and no more. Many of those become stuck and break upon attempting to remove.

Also six quarts isn’t nearly low enough to damage the engine. Filter collapsed, far worse, but still not catastrophic.
 
Ive been running the OEM plastic housing in my 4Runner for 250k and LC without issues. My Camry has an OEM metal housing. As mentioned above, make sure you're filter wrench is seated properly on the filter when loosening/tightening and obey the 18FTlb torque and it will work just fine.

If you decide to move the mesh tube to the metal filter, there are two tabs on the bottom that need to be bent flat so that it can be rotated out of the slot in the housing that holds it. Once moved, bend the tabs back up. I remove mine every once and a while for a good cleaning.

One other thing, pull your cam position sensors out and make sure they are clean.
 
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