Looking to pick up a close to stock first gen. 4 runner that is as close to stock as I can, with little rust. After that I am open. What are the top 5 things I need to look for to make a good buy?
Thank you
Thank you
Top 5 things to know?
- Thread starter 60Man
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solid axle?
- Thread starter
- #3
Solid? well I am open. Not looking to have a trail truck, and it is my understanding that the solid is more for off road as to the latter front ends that are wider and more for paved road?
Well if it's a solid front axle I'd check the knuckles for leaks and see if it needs to be rebuilt. If it's IFS check to see if the CV's are torn. The solid front can be daily driven. I do it. Yes the IFS is wider but you can do some mods to widen a solid front axle as well. As for other things to look for is how it runs, and any codes are a couple of things
Yeah that's hard say.
Check the usuals: Water in oil, Oil in Water, Maybe pull some spark plugs?, Leaking Oil/Fluids, Tire wear (for alignment problems)
If a 22r/re engine, ask when the timing chain was replaced
If a 3.0 ask if/when the head gaskets were replaced
Check the usuals: Water in oil, Oil in Water, Maybe pull some spark plugs?, Leaking Oil/Fluids, Tire wear (for alignment problems)
If a 22r/re engine, ask when the timing chain was replaced
If a 3.0 ask if/when the head gaskets were replaced
- Thread starter
- #6
All good info thank you. How about the removable cap, what to know about that? Also I am partial to a 5 speed, any thing outside the normal things to look at. My 60 has no engine lite how about the 4 runners?
- Thread starter
- #7
It also looks like the smart money is on the 22re. Thoughts?
Yes, only get the re. They are ( in my opinion ) very superior to the 3.0. Others may disagree. The 4 cly are wayyyy easier to work on as well. What are you asking about your 60 compared to a runner? Didn't quite understand that
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- #9
Thank you I like easy to work on. My 60 I have no engine lite or computer to read codes from. Will the 22re have a port to read codes from?
The fuel injection models have a diagnosis port next to the fuse box. You just E1 and T1 with ign turned on truck not running and the check engine light will flash the codes for you.
- Thread starter
- #11
That is great info. Do you have anything about the removable cap?
Removable cap? It should just pop up. Assuming you're talking about the diagnostics box
Your referring to the removable top. Yes it comes off pretty easy. A bit more hardware and interior trim to remove than a 40 but lighter
- Thread starter
- #14
Thank you but no, I am talking about the fiberglass cap on the back a the truck. Any tips on knowing if it has been damaged, or does not line up properly, I have no experience with a removable hard top.
If the top wasn't put back on correctly, you should easily be able to identify it as it follows the shape of the cap identically. As far as other damage, the top is made of fiberglass and any exterior patches should also be easy to identify. The inside would be harder to detect due to the headliner, but you would think there would be exterior signs as well.
I agree with you that 5speed is the way to go. Unless you get a turbo 4runner, it should come with a W56 which is a pretty solid tranny - unless you plan on going hard-core.
I think the rear fenders rust out in 4runners/trucks first. So maybe look extra close there.
I agree with you that 5speed is the way to go. Unless you get a turbo 4runner, it should come with a W56 which is a pretty solid tranny - unless you plan on going hard-core.
I think the rear fenders rust out in 4runners/trucks first. So maybe look extra close there.
- Thread starter
- #16
Great info. Thank you all. The hunt starts. I will stop back.
The chrome trim is what actually causes most rear fender rust situations. Some kind of chemical reaction with the chrome on metal for long periods of time
On mine it rusted out due to the double walled truck bed. Moisture gets trapped in there and it just rots it out. The idea was great in theory, to have a double walled bed that was strong and didn't put a dent on the outside sheet metal when a tool bounced around. But in reality, a lot of these trucks were junked becasue of the bed rust.
I just went fiberglass and never looked back. I always get people asking me how I keep the rust at bay...
I just went fiberglass and never looked back. I always get people asking me how I keep the rust at bay...
That double walled idea ruined my bed. So I made a flatbed for it. I regret not having a tailgate now. But over all it looks better.
Also check for a tapping sound. That's not valve rattle, that's timing chain guides broke and time to do a full timing chain