Too much rust?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

O

oldaggie2000

Joined
Jan 14, 2017
Threads
9
Messages
20
Location
Texas
Howdy all-

I have my eyes on a 2013 LC from Michigan. 140,000 miles.

I think this is a lot of rust. Any thoughts?

Thank you

C3A8ABDA-A43C-4491-8F6B-B24501611BDB.webp


10032395-C777-441B-9B24-1D9E3C6AADA8.webp


47890980-1B25-43CF-9B70-9F3DFC326292.webp


5A3F3575-C055-4E68-AD64-8C39DF077ED5.webp
 
Since you're in Texas, yeah- that's way too much rust.

If you were going to drive it in the Rust Belt anyway, have at it- a clean one would look like that in a couple winters anyway.
 
A couple grand at most with a good body shop can reverse that and respray it i bet. Install a new OME suspension system and replace the upper and lower arms and would be looking pretty good. Just make sure the rust on frame is only at the the surface. Heck, I would replace the exhaust system with something a little beefier while your at it. My suggestion is gonna cost around 10k.
 
Dude, no need to buy something with rust like that. Buy a local rig, you prob won't find a green one, but you also won't have to use a torch to do any suspension work. For $33k, you can do much better. Good luck
 
I'm in the same boat with a 2010 LC that I bought a year ago. Wish i had waited as now I'm trying to find shops here that will even do the work b/c there isn't much demand in the south. In my case, mileage was very low and interior/exterior were in great condition so I rolled the dice. I plan on keeping a long time so I don't mind spending some $$ to get it right.
 
Too expensive for that much rust. You could save the 10k worth of rust repair that @Angelo1 said and get it painted or wrapped any color you want. I hear you on the rarity of the green, I'd be feeling the same way, thats my dream color. My personal experience was a less rusty truck that spent 1st 5 years in NYC, then i moved to Arizona. Every single upgrade the rust that i thought was no issue...has been an issue. Suspension, Lower Control Arms, Sliders, Bumper, KDSS....you name it, every single time I've had to fight the rust. At this point it's almost all swapped out, but still wish I'd started with a rust free example. Get a southern truck
 
Definitely too much. If you are planning to keep it down south where no salt on roads, definitely I would buy rust free. You need to assume that one day you will need to sell it.
 
LCMemphis said:
I'm in the same boat with a 2010 LC that I bought a year ago. Wish i had waited as now I'm trying to find shops here that will even do the work b/c there isn't much demand in the south. In my case, mileage was very low and interior/exterior were in great condition so I rolled the dice. I plan on keeping a long time so I don't mind spending some $$ to get it right.
Click to expand...

do you have pictures of the rust on yours you’d be willing to share? If it’s just a few areas, look at a kit called POR-15
 
DPA200 said:
You can see my rust if you'd like. Have you used the POR-15? I'm in AZ now so the rust hasn't really been getting worse, but I'd still like to make sure

View attachment 2172244

View attachment 2172245

View attachment 2172246

View attachment 2172247
Click to expand...
Thanks for sharing. POR-15 is a great kit for small areas. I have not used it yet but many people swear by it. Yours seems to be all surface rust and needs to be sanded/wired brushed and sprayed with a rust converter. I would call body shops and off-road shops if you haven’t already. Only if bothers you of course. The rust will continue, just at a much slower rate since you’re in AZ. I’m sure you can find a few shops in Phoenix area to reverse the rust damage and make it look brand new again
 
POR15 is amazing stuff but it will not make seized/rusted bolts any easier to get out. That is the primary reason I am so militant about advising NO rust if you plan to keep it for any length of time.. the savings just aren't worth the future work required to get things loose for maintenance/upgrades.

And the clean ones are out there! Just need to be patient.
 
I always defend rust to a point. That looks like a lot of work. Pull the tow hitch cover off the back and take a look. If its rotted out you should really negotiate the price. Also drop the factory skid plates. They have some foam stuff on the back that really holds in the salt and water all year. Look for rot there as well. I'm not a betting man but I would put a lot of money the KDSS is frozen. So..... it is a great color. If there is no panel rot and its in good shape otherwise and you don't mind doing the repairs go for it! Just do not let anyone convince you to put some sort of rubber undercoating or "rust" paint. This will cause long term damage but look great. POR is fantastic for any part that you can remove and coat the entire piece. There is a lot of prep work involved with this stuff. Corroseal is amazing stuff for any rusted metal and its rather safe to use compared to other products. But still needs to be top coated with something<not a rubber coating>. Now the undercoating. I used to make my own but its a mess and my recipe is really bad for the environment. Swear by Woolwax Black. This stuff is amazing. I looked under my rig after the first salting and storm and you could see the salt crystallize in flakes on the surface of this stuff. To DIY you need a large compressor that can spray.

The pics look like its on the brink. Completely fixable today. 2-3 years from now might be major work if it stays in the same environment. The price seems a tad high. Bring up the rust and offer 29k. The stealership will probably tell you no way but if it sits there for a few weeks they will call you back. PM me if you decide to pull the trigger and want my 2 pennies
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom