hmm, Is there a way to tell by looking at it. I picked up one a few months ago and cant for the life of me remember what year it was out of... thanks agian.
Tired 87 2F (or parts)in Southern Oregon
- Thread starter Kief
- Start date
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hmm, Is there a way to tell by looking at it. I picked up one a few months ago and cant for the life of me remember what year it was out of... thanks agian.
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- Sep 26, 2003
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3F BH only has clutch fork opening on one side. It also says "3F" in large letters on the top.
Ulp, my bad...for not saying I was talking about the clutch fork..Not the bell housing. When people say its stamped with a 3f on it they are not kidding.
- Thread starter
- #24
What are the differences between the 3F bellhousing and the 2f beside the big "3F" stamped on it. My 2F BH bolted right up to the 87 2F that had the 3F BH. . The PO of this motor kept the bellhousing for reference but I will try to get it when he was done just in case I ever put a stick behind a 3fE.
Another question.. could a 3 speed BH bolt up to a 3fE?
Another question.. could a 3 speed BH bolt up to a 3fE?
If you end up splitting this apart, I call dib's on the water pump pulley and the crankshaft pulleys.
- Thread starter
- #26
Well, there goes another weekend. I will try to check out this motor this week after work. Thanks for your patience.
- Thread starter
- #27
Stock-not rebuilt
Like I thought. The claim presented by the PO was unfounded afaik. With my limited tools and measuring devices. I pulled the pan and found the crank pin to be 54mm and the bore to be 94mm. the stock bearings looked pretty good, if I had some plastigage I would have checked them. A little bit of erosion on the oil port on the connecting rod side, I think that is the cylinder wall splasher hole. I didn't want to pull the head as I think emtee is first in line at this point. Sorry for my slow response time. I will try to attach some pics. I cut a piece of wood to 94 mm and moved the CR out of the way, after rounding off the corners it was still pretty snug so I had to trim a tiny bit off to get it in the cylinder. Not the most accurate technique in the world.
Like I thought. The claim presented by the PO was unfounded afaik. With my limited tools and measuring devices. I pulled the pan and found the crank pin to be 54mm and the bore to be 94mm. the stock bearings looked pretty good, if I had some plastigage I would have checked them. A little bit of erosion on the oil port on the connecting rod side, I think that is the cylinder wall splasher hole. I didn't want to pull the head as I think emtee is first in line at this point. Sorry for my slow response time. I will try to attach some pics. I cut a piece of wood to 94 mm and moved the CR out of the way, after rounding off the corners it was still pretty snug so I had to trim a tiny bit off to get it in the cylinder. Not the most accurate technique in the world.
- Joined
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- www.tlcperformance.com
Betcha that's a Federal Mogul bearing.
Betcha.
Betcha.
- Thread starter
- #29
There is a mark and a # on the bearing, would that identify it? This motor had 220k plus and signs of infrequent oil changes. The oil was absolutely opaque. I pulled some OEM's out of my untouched but abused 67 that had worse erosion problems than this but of course they had bypassed the oil filter.
Is this more of a bearing quality problem typically or caustic chemicals and spent oil?
Is this more of a bearing quality problem typically or caustic chemicals and spent oil?
Need the entire motor.............mine on wednesday started to knock............<grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr> no oil passage, good compressions and no smoke......no it isn't a valve sticking; wish it was sounds mor elike a wrist knock or a piston skirt slap under load 
Lou
Lou
- Thread starter
- #32
What's your 20?
One in line in front of you... what is your location? Do you want to put this one in as is? You might want to pull the oil pan, side cover and valve cover and check things out first, I know of an F motor that lost the top of a push rod and after replacing the push rod it was OK after... weird. Did you loose oil pressure all together. PM me with contact info.
One in line in front of you... what is your location? Do you want to put this one in as is? You might want to pull the oil pan, side cover and valve cover and check things out first, I know of an F motor that lost the top of a push rod and after replacing the push rod it was OK after... weird. Did you loose oil pressure all together. PM me with contact info.
Need the entire motor.............mine on wednesday started to knock............<grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr> no oil passage, good compressions and no smoke......no it isn't a valve sticking; wish it was sounds mor elike a wrist knock or a piston skirt slap under load
Lou
- Thread starter
- #33
CARB-Well, I was kind of thinking I would rebuild this one, then swap it out with my old one, may desmog my 84 and haven't looked into it yet. What are they worth?
- Thread starter
- #34
Hey emtee, you didn't fall asleep under some bridge somewhere did ya?
- Thread starter
- #35
Ok, checked the bearing .003 clearance not bad. Looks like EMTEE is gonna take it home. Thanks for the interest. Pm me if you are still interested in parts and I will see what I have. Thanks, Kief.
I am looking for the inspection cover on the bottom of the 3F bell housing.
- Thread starter
- #38
Engine is sold. Thanks for the mint steering wheel Emtee.