Tire fitment with suspension lift

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May 17, 2026
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Hey fam

Just picked up a 22 GX460 and I'm putting together a list of mods I want to add when I sell my old rig.

I did some digging on tire rack and their tire sizes are probably from OEM lift/suspension, can I fit some 285/75/R16 BF Goodrich KO3s on her with a 2in suspension lift?

thanks in advance for any help!!

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As stated above, 16" wheels will not fit over the calipers and disk's. Minimum is 17"
Factory, comes with 18" or 19" depending upon year and trim level.
Note: If you want to replace rims and tires, go with 17" wheels and tires. 18" wheels and tires that would be the same diameter as an 17" tire diameter will cost more. 17" tires generally are less expensive than the same rolling diameter of an 18" or 19".
 
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I had rubbing with 32s when I had just a lift. Especially off road. Wasn’t until I did the bumper, sliders, and took a heat gun to the fender plastic before I was able to get rid of it.

Unfortunately fitting larger tires is one of the weak spots of the 150 series.
 
You can fully articulate 33s on a 150 (265/70/18) with no lift and stock wheels.

1) lift doesn’t improve clearance, and can hurt it due to geometry

2) wheel offset matters. Keep things around OEM.
Absolutely agree with 2), but clarification is needed for 1).
A suspension lift, note: suspension lift not a body lift or spacers, will increase:
  1. Approach angle
  2. Departure angle
  3. Break-over angle
  4. Clearance from the tops of fenders.
A proper suspension lift will provide more travel and if the lift is properly matched to the weight of the vehicle, including steel bumpers, winch, RTT, etc. and correctly aligned, it will give a better than stock ride.
Part of a better ride also comes from taller tires with a taller sidewall which provides more cushion on compression and when aired down a larger tire patch when wheeling.

With all due respect cfsds, this is from first hand experience from building three overland vehicles and wheeling in most parts of California, Utah and Nevada in everything from heavy wooded forests, high desert, low desert, beach, rock gardens and everything in between over the past 35 years, of which my current rig is: R²M 2013 GX 460 Overland Build I feel I'm pretty qualified in my statements.
But I usually like to note that this is just my .02¢
I'm sure many on this forum will attest to these facts.
 
I agree with the previous statements in regards to fitting bigger tires. On IFS vehicles it's not usually the constraint.

Stay as low as you can to keep center of mass low.
I do advanced trails with Rubicons on 37s.

I dont have lockers. I do have MTs, which make a huge difference.

Driver skill and learning to get the most out of ATRAC are the keys.

Also on the J150 lift you loose droop and that compromises offroadability

Why none of the other yotas in my group cab take my lines even when they have a locker and I dont.
 
ok so what I've gleaned is 265/70/18 is the safe bet if I want to get AT's - I'm looking at BF Goodrich KO3's

No lift necessary? I see she has a lot of clearance but don't want to rub the fenders at all

As for skill, I've had a 2010 Xterra very built out for 14 years now, so that should certainly not be an issue; a pic from our Mojave Road trip back in 2014

1111.webp
 
ok so what I've gleaned is 265/70/18 is the safe bet if I want to get AT's - I'm looking at BF Goodrich KO3's

No lift necessary? I see she has a lot of clearance but don't want to rub the fenders at all

As for skill, I've had a 2010 Xterra very built out for 14 years now, so that should certainly not be an issue; a pic from our Mojave Road trip back in 2014

View attachment 4171270
As long as you keep factory offset you can go up to a 33 without rubbing metal. You will need to massage plastics and maybe get an alignment to push the LCAs forward.

I have a slight ass drag to help with my caster sp I can keep my LCAs all the way forward. With a BMC I will be running 35s for my next set of tires.

There is a screw in the back of the wheel well that needs to be removed. There are threads that deal with it.

I ran 275/70R18s before I got my body mount chop, so with a forward alignment abs some fender massaging on stock offset, that would probably be the max size on 18s. I have thsy size in a nokian Hakkipiletta for winter.

If function is important i would highly recommend going with an oem 17" wheel. I know steelies arent for everyone.

Also light tires like Destination XTs or Bridgestone Dueler Ascents can help keep the unsprung weight down and ride a lot better.

If you dont need a heavy duty carcass in your tire then I would highly recommend them. I ran Revos previously and they complemented the Lexus nature of our truck very well.

Bridgestone Dueler Revos in an E load range.
285 70r17 on oem steelies
Around 50 lbs a pop and road amazing.

I do some harder core wheeling now and my rig has evolved from this.

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I agree with the previous statements in regards to fitting bigger tires. On IFS vehicles it's not usually the constraint.
Stay as low as you can to keep center of mass low.
I do advanced trails with Rubicons on 37s.
I dont have lockers. I do have MTs, which make a huge difference.
Driver skill and learning to get the most out of ATRAC are the keys.
Also on the J150 lift you loose droop and that compromises offroadability
Why none of the other yotas in my group cab take my lines even when they have a locker and I dont.
Absolutely agree with keeping vehicle height/CG as low as possible. I never lift a vehicle higher than what it takes for the jounce (suspension compressed) of the tire to be completely fit into the fender. Any higher and you're just asking for trouble on off camber trails.
That's a reason I don't like body lifts. You're lifting the entire body of the vehicle, hence CG, but not gaining any suspension benefits, other than fitting a larger tire of cruising the mall.
 
ok so what I've gleaned is 265/70/18 is the safe bet if I want to get AT's - I'm looking at BF Goodrich KO3's

No lift necessary? I see she has a lot of clearance but don't want to rub the fenders at all

As for skill, I've had a 2010 Xterra very built out for 14 years now, so that should certainly not be an issue; a pic from our Mojave Road trip back in 2014

View attachment 4171270
265/65/18 was no problem for me. I rub at full lock on the DS external reservoir with 265/70/18 Toyo AT3s.
 
265/65/18 was no problem for me. I rub at full lock on the DS external reservoir with 265/70/18 Toyo AT3s.
Do you have a lift? Do you have wheel spacers or non-OEM wheels?

A lift may impact geometry, particularly if you need to adjust camber (due to the interaction between caster and camber on this platform).

Wheels that are further outboard either via spacers or offset will have impacts on scrub radius.
 
Do you have a lift? Do you have wheel spacers or non-OEM wheels?

A lift may impact geometry, particularly if you need to adjust camber (due to the interaction between caster and camber on this platform).

Wheels that are further outboard either via spacers or offset will have impacts on scrub radius.
Yes, Fox PES 2.5. Also have Icon delta UCAs to maintain geometry. Stock wheels, no spacers. It’s a poor mounting location for the reservoir.
 
I have 275/70r17s on stock suspension. No contact with the body mount. I had to do some simple fender liner work to prevent rubbing.


I'm pretty sure there are tons of GXs running a 1.5"-2" lift and 285/70r17s with no problems.
 
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