Tips to Remove Big Ol Nut Connecting EGR Pipe (J tube) to EGR Cooler

[Landpimp]

Used the cut short wrench a few times

Last time, I just cut the pipe right behind the nut(think I took the cooler bolts out but just let it hang), then put a impact on it. the big nut is no longer available from toyota, so be nice to it.

 

[Spike Strip]

What none of the other posts mention, is trying to get that flex-tube nut started again in the cast-iron cooler without cross-threading, with all the other crap around it, is incredibly difficult, and will lead to bursts of such profanity that your neighbors will think the Apocalypse has started.

Use the OE Toyota gasket on the top of the J-tube, as everything else seems to blow out.

Also, the SS replacement J-tube SOR offers is an excellent replacement with a much beefier flange where it bolts to the underside of the exh manifold. If you're going to re-use the stock tube, check to see that that flange is not warped.

 

[Butt Ugly Chuck]

What none of the other posts mention, is trying to get that flex-tube nut started again in the cast-iron cooler without cross-threading, with all the other crap around it, is incredibly difficult, and will lead to bursts of such profanity that your neighbors will think the Apocalypse has started.

Use the OE Toyota gasket on the top of the J-tube, as everything else seems to blow out.

Also, the SS replacement J-tube SOR offers is an excellent replacement with a much beefier flange where it bolts to the underside of the exh manifold. If you're going to re-use the stock tube, check to see that that flange is not warped.

Great advice there! I think that thin flange of the stock J tube is the cause of many an exhaust leak for those who have to run the EGR. The SOR piece solved my repeated leak there.
Butt

 

[Slow Left]

Hmmm...I think the post that revived this 2010 thread has been removed (it would have been the post right before D Animal's)...

Anyway, if I remember correctly, he was also dealing with a busted stud on the EX manifold to J-pipe...if this is true, he's gonna probably have to pull the manifolds...I can't see how to fix that with the manifolds installed on the vehicle...but if there is a way, I'd like to know how, in case I run into something similar down the road...

EDIT: I wonder if there is enough room (after having removed the the splash guard on the DS frame rail and the j-pipe/cooler) to drill and tap or drill and helicoil that busted stud from the EX manifold...anyone done that before with the manifolds installed on the vehicle?

 

[Dclowd9901]

For those of you who have dealt with this SOB, I'm currently pulling my exhaust manifold -- do I have to deal with it? I can't tell how the top of the J-pipe is connected to the exhaust manifold.

 

[Spike Strip]

There are two studs out of the manifold with nuts holding a flange. You will have to remove the heat shield if it's there.

You can remove the whole Manifold w/ pipes attached as a unit if you unbolt the EGR cooler from the block. Careful you don't break the long bolts holding the cooler, if they've never been off before.

 

[Dclowd9901]

There are two studs out of the manifold with nuts holding a flange. You will have to remove the heat shield if it's there.

You can remove the whole Manifold w/ pipes attached as a unit if you unbolt the EGR cooler from the block. Careful you don't break the long bolts holding the cooler, if they've never been off before.

You rock, spike, thanks!

 

[Michael Hanson]

Heat those bolts till red hot,spray with water, mine always come off. If they don’t repeat. Mike

 

[Dclowd9901]

I was very lucky; essentially none of my manifold bolts or nuts were a pain in the ass with the notable exception of that very front bolt near the power steering pump. It was incredibly difficult to get leverage on it, and every turn was ridiculously strenuous. The bolt seemed to be about 4 miles long.

In any case, I've got the whole shebang out. Used that nice tip, too, to ratchet-strap the exhaust pipe to clear some room. Now comes the "fun" part.