- Thread starter
- #41
Thanks for the tip, I'll have to see where to source that stuff. Any idea what type of shop sells that?
Time to upgrade the BJ60 a little....
- Thread starter splitbuseric
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
Parts arrived finally....
Finally got the parts I needed to complete the turbo job. I wanted to keep my rear heater functional, but where the factory hoses come up from the firewall and cross to the steel lines on the head was in the way of the turbo. So I removed the factory Tee in place at these lines and made my own that incorporates the factory steel line around the head to feed both cores and goes over the turbo and meets up with rear heater lines in the stock location. This worked pretty good and I was able to use most of the factory lines by either bending the steel ones carefully or cutting the rubber ones. See the first pic below.
I got the oil pan off, cleaned up and low and behold I have a 1HD-T not a 3B! who knew(see second pic) Once cleaned up I drilled the 3/4" hole for the bung and welded it on.
Care should be taken here to make sure you have the hole drilled far enough forward to clear the oil filter, if yours is the later style that hangs downward. I didn't put mine quite enough forward and it will end up in the way of removing the oil filter. I may put a 45 deg. adapter on it to correct this.
Finally got the parts I needed to complete the turbo job. I wanted to keep my rear heater functional, but where the factory hoses come up from the firewall and cross to the steel lines on the head was in the way of the turbo. So I removed the factory Tee in place at these lines and made my own that incorporates the factory steel line around the head to feed both cores and goes over the turbo and meets up with rear heater lines in the stock location. This worked pretty good and I was able to use most of the factory lines by either bending the steel ones carefully or cutting the rubber ones. See the first pic below.
I got the oil pan off, cleaned up and low and behold I have a 1HD-T not a 3B! who knew(see second pic) Once cleaned up I drilled the 3/4" hole for the bung and welded it on.
Care should be taken here to make sure you have the hole drilled far enough forward to clear the oil filter, if yours is the later style that hangs downward. I didn't put mine quite enough forward and it will end up in the way of removing the oil filter. I may put a 45 deg. adapter on it to correct this.
- Thread starter
- #43
First a pic of the bung pre-welding, sorry not shots of my crappy welding here.
The second pic shows what I did for the other coolant line that ran along the head. I ended up massaging it back almost straight, running it behind the power steering reservoir. This with the factory hose that was there before made a decent return for the rear heater coolant. The only trouble here is that it is right in the way of the hose that needs to run from the air filter box to the turbo intake. I hadn't figured that out yet and cobbled up a crappy filter to get it to the exhaust shop.
The third pic shows the tee for the boost gauge I installed. I wasn't getting a reading and thought this location was no good, although the volvo turbo had a tee there previously, presumably for a boost gauge. Turns out that I forgot to seal the threads at the guage and now I am getting boost readings.
The second pic shows what I did for the other coolant line that ran along the head. I ended up massaging it back almost straight, running it behind the power steering reservoir. This with the factory hose that was there before made a decent return for the rear heater coolant. The only trouble here is that it is right in the way of the hose that needs to run from the air filter box to the turbo intake. I hadn't figured that out yet and cobbled up a crappy filter to get it to the exhaust shop.
The third pic shows the tee for the boost gauge I installed. I wasn't getting a reading and thought this location was no good, although the volvo turbo had a tee there previously, presumably for a boost gauge. Turns out that I forgot to seal the threads at the guage and now I am getting boost readings.
- Thread starter
- #44
Once I got all the oil lines and coolant lines on and secure, I put some fresh 15W40 Rotella in and squeezed as much red diesel coolant in as I could.
I then set about installing the gauges, boost, EGT and Oil Pressure. I put my oil sending unit in the place of the stock one,with a BSPT-NPT adapter as my stock gauge doesnt work. I teed the boost line in between the cold housing and the wastegate actuator.
When I installed then intake manifold I didn't install the thermocouple as I didn't want to damage it accidentally. Mistake. Once everything is already installed it is nearly impossible to get in there, with this manifold the crankcase vent pipe is right in the way. I nervously bent the wire end of the thermocouple and was able to get it in there. I was surprised when I fired it up that it still worked. Lesson here is install the thermocouple before the manifold with this type of manifold.
I found running the wires easy, I went in through the factory wiring hole in the firewall behind the washer fluid reservoir and there was room in the factory grommet. All the wires slid in nice and I simply unscrewed the kick panel on the pass. side and the wires were right there. I fed them up and across the dash at the lower winshield. Some cable ties and wiring loom and it looks clean enough. I don't have pics of the finish install yet but below shows the wiring and gauges.
I then set about installing the gauges, boost, EGT and Oil Pressure. I put my oil sending unit in the place of the stock one,with a BSPT-NPT adapter as my stock gauge doesnt work. I teed the boost line in between the cold housing and the wastegate actuator.
When I installed then intake manifold I didn't install the thermocouple as I didn't want to damage it accidentally. Mistake. Once everything is already installed it is nearly impossible to get in there, with this manifold the crankcase vent pipe is right in the way. I nervously bent the wire end of the thermocouple and was able to get it in there. I was surprised when I fired it up that it still worked. Lesson here is install the thermocouple before the manifold with this type of manifold.
I found running the wires easy, I went in through the factory wiring hole in the firewall behind the washer fluid reservoir and there was room in the factory grommet. All the wires slid in nice and I simply unscrewed the kick panel on the pass. side and the wires were right there. I fed them up and across the dash at the lower winshield. Some cable ties and wiring loom and it looks clean enough. I don't have pics of the finish install yet but below shows the wiring and gauges.
- Thread starter
- #45
Finally, I started it up and to my surprise not a single leak. I backed out of the sho. As I have no exhaust hooked up yet at all, I was surprised how quiet the truck was, nothing like before the turbo when my exhaust rusted away. I don't see a need for a muffler I am guessing. Everything went smooth, good oil pressure, bled the cooling system and since the flush, now have better heat than before.
I built a quick heat shield to protect the lines on the firewall and drove the truck with no exhaust to the exhaust shop. I noticed an increase in power, but not much really, on the drive. I was being conservative though. I did notice no more than 3psi boost, so I am thinking I need to adjust the wastegate rod or it is sticking. I can hear the turbo spooling nicely, sounds great. I am looking forward to getting it back from the exhaust shop to dial in the boost and fuel. I was surprised to be seeing EGT's reaching 1000F when I put my foot into it a little, although it didn't go past there.I can't imagine what it was doing before the turbo was on...
I built a quick heat shield to protect the lines on the firewall and drove the truck with no exhaust to the exhaust shop. I noticed an increase in power, but not much really, on the drive. I was being conservative though. I did notice no more than 3psi boost, so I am thinking I need to adjust the wastegate rod or it is sticking. I can hear the turbo spooling nicely, sounds great. I am looking forward to getting it back from the exhaust shop to dial in the boost and fuel. I was surprised to be seeing EGT's reaching 1000F when I put my foot into it a little, although it didn't go past there.I can't imagine what it was doing before the turbo was on...
good job with this, haven't read too many 3b turbo fabs. No ic? -yet?
Looking forward to the rest of the mods!
Looking forward to the rest of the mods!
- Thread starter
- #47
This is all I have so far... I have a video as well, not sure if I can post them here? I'll take more pics when I get it back from the exhaust shop in a few days.
Ahhh, sweet! An instruction manual for me!! I got the same manifold, I think the same time you did - I'm just lazy and haven't done it yet! (sometimes that pays of, now I have a great "how to" manual!! Thanks!!)
One of these years I'll get around to it - definitely bookmarking this one!
One of these years I'll get around to it - definitely bookmarking this one!
RUN STEEL ONE'S
I would NOT use any ""annealed alum. tubing"" ever with a Copper /brass / cast iron / steel lines, Never add another metal that will help in electrolysis and is the weaker metal..
The 1984 Volvo turbo , was it from a intercooled unit 84- later or early 1983.. Boost on the waste-gate actuator is swappable.
VT
- Thread starter
- #50
Well, I got the truck all together and it works great! My computer crashed so haven't been able to up date the thread. I now have about 500km on the turbo and it works great!
The first pics here show the completed exhaust and how tight it is to the firewall. I will need to make a custom heat shield to build upon the factory shield. Also the exhaust guy built a nice flange on the down pipe so it could be more easily removed if necessary. He did nice work, and while I wish it wasn't so close to the firewall, I can work with it.
The rubber coolant line going over the turbo to the rear heater lines I am planning on replacing with steel. So far heat hasn't been an issue for it, but I think it will better for the long term.
The first pics here show the completed exhaust and how tight it is to the firewall. I will need to make a custom heat shield to build upon the factory shield. Also the exhaust guy built a nice flange on the down pipe so it could be more easily removed if necessary. He did nice work, and while I wish it wasn't so close to the firewall, I can work with it.
The rubber coolant line going over the turbo to the rear heater lines I am planning on replacing with steel. So far heat hasn't been an issue for it, but I think it will better for the long term.
- Thread starter
- #51
Turbo intake
One of the problems I was having during final install was getting hose from the turbo intake to the stock BJ60 air cleaner box. It was a couple of tight bends and I really wanted to use the stock air box so I needed a flexible peice of hose. I was doing an oil change on my wifes 91 VW Vanagon camper and realized that the stock intake hose for it looked close.
I took it and fitted it and it was almost a perfect fit! I ordered another one and it fit the 2 1/4" intake on the turbo perfectly and I had an adapter to take the 2 3/4" outlet on the air box to 2 1/2" pipe and the other end of the VW part was 2 1/2" and fit nice. It made the corner and worked great!
Check out the pics...
One of the problems I was having during final install was getting hose from the turbo intake to the stock BJ60 air cleaner box. It was a couple of tight bends and I really wanted to use the stock air box so I needed a flexible peice of hose. I was doing an oil change on my wifes 91 VW Vanagon camper and realized that the stock intake hose for it looked close.
I took it and fitted it and it was almost a perfect fit! I ordered another one and it fit the 2 1/4" intake on the turbo perfectly and I had an adapter to take the 2 3/4" outlet on the air box to 2 1/2" pipe and the other end of the VW part was 2 1/2" and fit nice. It made the corner and worked great!
Check out the pics...
- Thread starter
- #53
The change with the turbo was not immediate. Once I picked the truck up from the exhaust guy, the same problem I had before was there. Only boosting 2-3 psi. So I drove it home a little underwhelmed. I played with the wastegate adjustment rod and got the boost up to about the max for this wastegate, around 12 psi. I think for this old engine with 675K on it, I am happy with that. This obviously made quite a difference in driveability and power. Although I was still a little disappointed with the end result, it had more power and shifting and driveability was much, much smoother than before. No more tractor like acceleration at least.
I was maxing my EGT's at about 850F under full load going up the biggest hill around (not very hilly here) so I decided to play with the fuel a bit. At first I cranked it a 1/4 turn and that made a slight difference in power for sure. The EGTs stayed about the same so I gave it another 1/4 turn and that really woke the engine up. Quite a bit more power than before and it makes for a much smoother truck that is easier to drive. My wife has been using it lately and has commented how much it is smoother, the turbo takes a lot of the exhaust noise and vibration away and makes the truck quite a bit nicer. I am now maxing about 1000F on the same hill under load and I may leave it there in the interests of longevity and fuel economy. I don't have any black smoke at all yet, which I think is a good sign. Part of me does want to crank it up a little more as I think just a little more would make it a really nice truck. I may try it yet..
I ended up mounting the gauges on the dash pad with velcro facing the driver in a triple pod. I didn't want to put holes in the nice dash pad. I'll get a pic later.
I am now considering removing the high-flow muffler I have on there. I put it on before the turbo conversion and it sounded kinda cool then, but now I can't hear the exhaust at all, because the turbo removes so much of the sound. So I had the muffler in with clamps so that I could remove it later if I wanted. I am thinking it might just sound nice, not too loud with straight pipe all the way out the back in the stock location. Not sure but maybe it will help with EGT's a little as well...
I was maxing my EGT's at about 850F under full load going up the biggest hill around (not very hilly here) so I decided to play with the fuel a bit. At first I cranked it a 1/4 turn and that made a slight difference in power for sure. The EGTs stayed about the same so I gave it another 1/4 turn and that really woke the engine up. Quite a bit more power than before and it makes for a much smoother truck that is easier to drive. My wife has been using it lately and has commented how much it is smoother, the turbo takes a lot of the exhaust noise and vibration away and makes the truck quite a bit nicer. I am now maxing about 1000F on the same hill under load and I may leave it there in the interests of longevity and fuel economy. I don't have any black smoke at all yet, which I think is a good sign. Part of me does want to crank it up a little more as I think just a little more would make it a really nice truck. I may try it yet..
I ended up mounting the gauges on the dash pad with velcro facing the driver in a triple pod. I didn't want to put holes in the nice dash pad. I'll get a pic later.
I am now considering removing the high-flow muffler I have on there. I put it on before the turbo conversion and it sounded kinda cool then, but now I can't hear the exhaust at all, because the turbo removes so much of the sound. So I had the muffler in with clamps so that I could remove it later if I wanted. I am thinking it might just sound nice, not too loud with straight pipe all the way out the back in the stock location. Not sure but maybe it will help with EGT's a little as well...
- Thread starter
- #54
The exhaust guy bent that crossover pipe for me when he did the down pipe install.
Can you tell me how much roughly was the VW intake hose?
- Thread starter
- #57
It was $16 cdn from the dealer. VW part # 025 129 626
1991 VW Vanagon 2.1L, manual
hope it helps.
I am the seller of the manifold and I am glade things worked out well. I have a 1.5" of clearance from my down pipe to fire wall but that is with T25 turbo and not volvo turbo. This manifold is low profile so you could easily install a upright intercooler on top of your 3T.
Regards
Mike
noorkota@hotmail.com
Regards
Mike
noorkota@hotmail.com
You are going to add the water cooling I hope !!! , Non-water cooled turbos were a dying job due to us always having to update them to the later style 1984- in NA..
Tight exhaust ..
Myself i would use the Flex exhaust sections (there 50- 80 each , available aftermarket ),, one vertical , another on the horizontal , for cold start ups and big pulls , plus the 3 13 mm nuts on the front down pipe , tighten after the flex joints are in , about 3 times , drive hot , cool , loosen , re tighten them one at a time.
VT. ,
Tight exhaust ..
Myself i would use the Flex exhaust sections (there 50- 80 each , available aftermarket ),, one vertical , another on the horizontal , for cold start ups and big pulls , plus the 3 13 mm nuts on the front down pipe , tighten after the flex joints are in , about 3 times , drive hot , cool , loosen , re tighten them one at a time.
VT. ,
- Thread starter
- #60
I think lots of guys are running turbos without the water lines. I may add them later, but for now this is easier and 'seems' to be working well. As for the exhaust I do have a flex section on the horizontal peice, not visible in photos. I am going to see how this one does, still need to make a better heat shield as the factory one doesn't quite cover all th fuel/brake lines....