Time to upgrade the BJ60 a little....

[splitbuseric]

Pic of the wastegate bracket and the two holes I ended up drilling. When I drilled the first hole the bracket positioned the wastegate actuator so that the rod was on an angle I wasn't comfortable with so I drilled a second hole in the name of functionality over form.

Two pics of the turbo now clocked to work on this manifold

 

[splitbuseric]

The manifold

The manifold is the one available here in the diesel classifieds from noorkota. Not sure if anyone else has used it or not yet, the seller has had them available for a while. The top mounting holes are machined to a slot to fit the the 3B bolt pattern. I am interested to see how well the ports match up once I get the original exhaust manifold off. The seller advised that I may need to switch to bolts to install the manifold, which may not be a big concern for me as the only visible studs I can see around the heat shield on the stock manifold are already bolts. We'll see how they come out....

One poster on here thought it was a factory manifold for an Isuzu (4BDT or something?) either way we'll see how it works...

 

[splitbuseric]

Thermocouple

I installed the thermocouple supplied with my Autometer gauges. I am installing EGT, boost and oil pressure with the turbo. As per the instructions I drilled a 5/16" hole. Lots of patience and thread cutting oil here to ensure I didn't crack the manifold. The tapped threads were 1/8" NPT and the thermocouple screwed right in. I am happy with the depth of the thermocouple in the manifold, fairly centred.

One question - Do the threads need to be sealed? Does thread tape even survive exhaust manifold temps?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Very cool build. I am going to have to tackle that same rust on the rear wheel wells.

Maybe high temp loc-tite to seal the pyro gauge threads?

 

[earl]

The trouble here was I only had one bolt to hold the bracket now instead of the previous two. So I tried to mount the bracket so it was flush with the lip on the housing and then tightened the one bolt with a lock washer. Time will tell whether his will stand up to the diesel shake. Overall, the clocking went smooth, with no seized parts etc.

Looking good! Maybe you can fab up a new bracket down the road.

 

[ntsqd]

snip....

One question - Do the threads need to be sealed? Does thread tape even survive exhaust manifold temps?

All that I use on threads on the hot side of the turbo test stand at work is copper based anti-seize, including pipe threads. Very little else will live on an exhaust manifold. As it is expect the liquid base of the anti-seize to smoke the first time that it gets hot.

 

[splitbuseric]

Looking good! Maybe you can fab up a new bracket down the road.

Thanks, I'm going to have a look and see if I have any steel around to make something up, otherwise I"ll try it for now as is. It seems quite secure.

All that I use on threads on the hot side of the turbo test stand at work is copper based anti-seize, including pipe threads. Very little else will live on an exhaust manifold. As it is expect the liquid base of the anti-seize to smoke the first time that it gets hot.

Thanks, I doubted the need for any sealant on the threads. I'll throw some anti-seize on in case I need to take it out in the future.

No progress today, might get time tomorrow night to start tearing the truck down.

 

[splitbuseric]

Teardown

Began the teardown for the turbo today, overall everything went fairly smooth. The manifold came off smooth and with a little massaging the new one fits as well. Unfortunately I didn't have long enough metric fine thread (M10 X 1.25 X 50mm needed)to put the manifold on permanently and couldn't find any on a sunday. So I 'll likely get to that in a couple days. Some pics

1. Before shot - coolant lines that need to be moved
2. Air filter/intake - I am hoping to continue using the stock air filter
3. Coolant lines before removal, All 3 need to be rerouted to make room for the turbo and the exhaust downpipe

 

[splitbuseric]

I started by removing the manifold heat shield. I have been soaking the bolts for this and the manifold daily for a week with Moovit by LLoyds. I find this to be the best penetrating fluid out there, great product.

Then I drained the oil and coolant. I have only gone so far as to drain with the petcock on the rad. I plan on a full system flush while I have everything apart. No surprises here, I bought a large wide pail and some kitty litter and was able to keep the mess to a minimum.

Next, off came the coolant lines that are in the manifold area. I took these off as one peice so I can remember the route of where the lines go at both the heater end and the water pump/thermostat end. Took lots of before pics as well.

 

[splitbuseric]

Next off came the manifold and down pipe bolts. Unbelievably considering the very high mileage every one came out very easily. Perhaps too easily. Any body know the torque spec for exhaust manifold bolts? I say bolts, as mine have been swapped at some point, which is a bonus for me as I was advised by the seller of the manifold that bolts would be needed as the flanges are much thicker than stock. Unfortunately, I didn't have long enough bolts so I am stuck unable to properly install the manifold bolts. The bolts are not a common size either, so it may take a couple of days to get that in...

The original bolts were just long enough to get enough threads started to hold the manifold on. This gave a good view of the top row of bolt holes that have been slotted to allow access to the 3B head holes. The seller warned that I may have to grind a tiny bit off the flanges to allow the bolt to slip through smoothly. I ended up doing this after mocking the manifold up the first time. The bottom bolt holes line up nicely.

In the bottom two photos you can see how tight the slots are to the edge of the head bolt hole. A little grind on the flange made some more room for the mount bolt. You can also now see why the top row of bolts requires a peice of angle to act as a washer for the mount bolts. Not the ideal setup but I think it should hold okay.

 

[earl]

Guess I probably didn't tell you that I had replaced the manifold due to a cracked flange. Hope you didn't waste too much Moovit

 

[splitbuseric]

With the manifold on fairly secure I threw on the adapter and turbo to get an idea of how things looked. The first thing I learned is that where I clocked the turbo wasn't going to work afterall. I misjudged how low the manifold brings the turbo; so off everything came and I turned the cold housing to point up so it can clear the valve cover. The crossover pipe will now need a 45degree bend. I'll see if I can do that out of the 2.5" stainless chunk I have here...

Exhaust clearance is exactly as I thought, really tight. There is not much more than 3" of room there to make the 90 bend and head down to the turbo flex. I was hoping to use 2.5" stainless all the way up, but I am going to leave that to my exhaust guy. I am hoping somehow we can slip a heat shield in between the firewall/brake line and the downpipe, I think it'll be necessary. I don't think this manifold could be used in a truck with less room to the firewall (40 and 70s maybe have less room?)

The last pic is the turbo mockup with the new clocking position. I am goint to have to get creative with the intake from the air filter housing to the turbo as the high pressure power steering line is cozy there as well...

 

[splitbuseric]

Guess I probably didn't tell you that I had replaced the manifold due to a cracked flange. Hope you didn't waste too much Moovit

thats hilarious! I knew it was too good to be true...

 

[splitbuseric]

Some more pics of the mocked up turbo. Everything needs to be removed again and cleaned properly before final install. In the meantime I'm going to drop the oil pan and drill the hole for the weld-on bung...

1 - Clearance to high pressure power steering line
2 - Top view of turbo
3 - top bolt hole with bolt in it. I don't have any pics with the angle iron on, but will get some at final install

 

[splitbuseric]

Turbo's on finally

Got the turbo on last night, it wet all right. When final fitting the manifold I did have to grind a slight bit more material off the flanges to clear the mounting bolts. The slots that are machined in there were not quite wide enough. Not a big deal only took a few seconds.

I used a Remflex gasket as advertised on here. Looks like very high quality, it is a full 1/8" thick and is advertised to compress and expand again after torquing, not requiring retorquing. It fit great and I highly recommend the product and the seller on here. Very good communication and fast shipping.

Second pic is of the manifold installed with the angle iron on the top row of bolt holes. While not ideal or pretty, I think it will work and hold just fine, which is what matters to me. I won't be entering the truck in any shows any time soon

Third pic is the T3 Volvo adatper. Some volvo T3's had this oddball round turbo flange and I needed the adapter to seal the turbo up properly. I am not sure what Volvo used as a gasket between the turbo and exhaust manifold but I am using a 2.75" flat style donut gasket that fits the volvo turbo nicely. Hopefully it seals up nice.

 

[splitbuseric]

More pics

Some more pics of the turbo install

1 - Close up of the manifold and angle iron 'washer'

2 - The turbo mounted on the manifold

3 - Top view of the final turbo mounting (still need to torque the nuts on the turbo but you get the idea)

 

[splitbuseric]

One thing now confirmed is the lack of exhaust clearance with this turbo and manifold combination. The manifold sticks the turbo out and keeps it low, wo the exhaust wont' tuck in that factory nook any more. You can see where my old factory pipe comes up in the previous posts pics. The total working room from the firewall factory heat shield/brake lines is 3.5", glad I am not the exhaust guy! Hopefully he can squeeze a 2.5" pipe in there AND put a heat shield on the pipe to double protect the firewall and lines and hoses mounted in that area from excessive heat.

The second pic is I believe the factory oil pressure galley I can remove and put my adapter in for oil pressure feed for the turbo. Can anybody confirm this is the right location?

I am now waiting on oil feed and return kit and silicone adapters for the intake plumbing. Once I get that all in I am going to tackle rerouting the coolant lines for the heater cores...Not sure quite how I am going to do that yet... I sort of decided not to plumb in the factory H20 jackets on the turbo, and have plugged them, but it almost seems like it would be straight forward to use them. One of the rear heater lines goes right near there, I am just not sure what direction the coolant flows in the system and if it matters which coolant lines or direction the coolant is travelling to feed the turbo. Anybody have tips?

1 - Firewall exhaust clearance

2 - Factory oil galley plug I can remove for oil feed for the turbo

 

[Rig of Mortis]

Looking good Eric, great documentation of this project.

 

[splitbuseric]

Thanks ROM, When I was looking at the turbo threads out there it seemed as if there was a lack of pics so I thought I would take a few extra and post them. Considering the manifold I am using is available on MUD for sale I thought someone else might benefit from the thread... Maybe I should have put the whole thread in the Diesel section but.... oh well

 

[PurpleFJ62]

I may have a suggestion for your coolant lines. Instead of just running rubber hose all over the place, get some annealed alum. tubing. I replaced some steel fuel lines on my mazda rx7 with this stuff. Since its alum, no rust, and its easy to work with.

I got a rigid tubing bender to put nice bends where ever needed. You might have to get a mini bead roller to put that nice lip in the end of the tube for the hose clamp.

cheers!!