thread specs. please

[concretejungle]

This is kinda embarassing, but i have waaaay too many threaded bolt holes that are either cross threaded or stripped. Only two are my fault One being the threads on the front output of the tcase. I stripped it by sliding the DC driveshaft on and off and on and off making sure it was making racket ect.....

I think Cdan said it was 1x10mm...i think?

The other that is my fault is the rear driverside seat. the back bolt. I got in a hurry one night while camping trying to take the seat out so i could sleep and ended up stripping that bolt out. Fawk!

The others are the front and rear frame bolts that mount either a tow hitch (in the rear on the frame rail) and the front to mount the ARB. I realized why there was no tow hook......the friggin bolt hole is stripped out. The PO did these so it's not my fault. But still, i need to get these fixed so i can properly mount my bull bar and so when i get my rear bumper it will properly mount.

So if someone could give me the thread specs on these bolts i would greatly appreciate it.

 

[photogod]

If they are striped out are you going to the next size and tap em out? For the frame you could use a 3/8 coarse thread instead of the metric and use a tap and maintain the same size hole. These sizes are from the FSM, the ones in the frame are 8T bolts in 8, 10 and 12mm with a torque of 22 to 24 ft. lbs. and the pitch is 1.25. If I recall the side and bottom bolts for the ARB are 10mm and the top are 12MM. The bottoms are 2 inchers to clear the spacer for the ARB and still be able to use the tow rings. Not much help is it.

 

[Photoman]

For a 1997

Front and rear frame – top and bottom 12 X 1.25
Side of frame front 10 X 1.25
Rear of DS seat to floor pan 10 X 1.25

Bill

Edit to say threads on the transfer case REAR flange are 10 X 1. Front flange may be the same?
Edit to correct as per CDan’s post #7. Front flange stud is 10 X 1, not REAR flange.

 

[Rookie2]

I thought the studs on the front drive shaft at the t-case flange were pressed on and unservicable. Have you figured out a way to swap it out? Don't ask me why I ask.

 

[OGBeno]

I thought the studs on the front drive shaft at the t-case flange were pressed on and unservicable. Have you figured out a way to swap it out? Don't ask me why I ask.

IIRC, you have to get a new output flange with the studs already in it....

Though I could be wrong.

-o-

 

[concretejungle]

Rookie and Beno, you guys are exactly right acording to Cdan. That's why i want to put a thread chaser on them. They are not super bad, but they really need some attention.

Thanks a ton Bill. I'll take that info to the mechanic to see if he can make that work again. I hope i don't have to go a size larger.

 

[cruiserdan]

The 80 series front is 10x1.0 and the rear is 11x1.0.

 

[concretejungle]

The 80 series front is 10x1.0 and the rear is 11x1.0.

Is that output flanges, or frame bolts?

 

[cruiserdan]

Drive shaft fasteners, the others are 1.25 pitch.

 

[concretejungle]

Drive shaft fasteners, the others are 1.25 pitch.

umm....hmmmm... what's....ummmm pitch?

and is that something that's important when picking the correct thread chaser or tapper?

 

[cruiserdan]

umm....hmmmm... what's....ummmm pitch?

and is that something that's important when picking the correct thread chaser or tapper?

Pitch is the number of threads per unit of measure.

IE a 1/2x16 (inch) bolt has 16 threads per inch.

A metric 1.25 is one thread per 1.25 mm and a 1.0 is one thread per 1.0 mm (finer than the 1.25).

D-

 

[concretejungle]

in my best spanish voice....grassyass