The twins and stuff

[FlatlandTRD]

Glad to help out, perfect day to be in the garage, and there was no bleeding. Success.

When we last measured the front, it was higher than mine (about same size tires, mine with a BL). It's now just below mine, so it may be close to 2" in front, and it's still at the max, but now you actually have down travel!

In hindsight, we needed spring compressors for the rear, but clearing the area worked this time

Either way, it's now actually functional. Just need to replace balljoints, steering rack bushings, and TREs now. Good times, I'll stock up on cut off wheels.

 

[weejub]

"There Will Be Blood" isn't just a movie, its what happens in my garage without your help!

I've got plenty of 4 and 3/8 cutting wheels for the dewalt. I also owe you some break free, rags, etc.

The Toytec's front coil overs are $759

Camburg's are $1100

SS can get me the shocks for the TRDs plus the 2 stover nuts, 2 bushings and 2 poly retainers for $250.00.

I'm thinking maybe go the last route possibly. Maybe use your coils to get the project going and then have the same shop rebuild mine to fit your tacoma so you have them as back up?

 

[FlatlandTRD]

SS can get me the shocks for the TRDs plus the 2 stover nuts, 2 bushings and 2 poly retainers for $250.00.

I'm thinking maybe go the last route possibly. Maybe use your coils to get the project going and then have the same shop rebuild mine to fit your tacoma so you have them as back up?

Do the SS's come with the adjusting sleeve and spanner wrench too? The main problem with using tundra coils with preload spacers or adjusters are the TRD coils are progressive rate. So you use up the low spring rate, effectively making them only the highest spring rate, i.e. pogo sticks.

Changing out coils really isn't that bad. The tundra coils compress easier than the tacoma ones, I've done several now. How much would this shop charge to break down and reassemble the c/os?

Personally I think OMEs are better than the 5100s, and the tundra coils are junk, but Steve doesn't make money with that statement. Ultimately you spend less money going with the more expensive and rebuildable c/o's. I've spent more than I care to share by not doing it right the first time, and trying several different conconctions.

I think we need to address the ball-joints pronto, they are in horrible shape and unsafe. When one fails, best case scenario: you poop your pants, have to replace upper and lower control arms, ball-joints, shock and coil, brakes, wheel, maybe a tire, a fender, and a seat because that stain isn't coming out. I've also seen insurance co. total 4runners after it. Might be great if it doesn't happen on the interstate after a small bump and there's no kiddos in the truck. Not trying to scare you, well maybe, but this thing needs to be de-fergified. BTW, that's your new personalized plate, "DEFERGD" once you're done.

Point is, no rush to get new suspension up front, we've fixed a major issue, and simply compressing mine enough to rotate the top plate will fix the fitmit (free BTW). Then we could take out the preload spacer on yours, see if that takes the bow out of the coils

Lemme know, we'll get together for round 2

 

[weejub]

Do the SS's come with the adjusting sleeve and spanner wrench too? The main problem with using tundra coils with preload spacers or adjusters are the TRD coils are progressive rate. So you use up the low spring rate, effectively making them only the highest spring rate, i.e. pogo sticks.

Nope!

How much would this shop charge to break down and reassemble the c/os?

I think $50 is the going rate.

Personally I think OMEs are better than the 5100s, and the tundra coils are junk, but Steve doesn't make money with that statement. Ultimately you spend less money going with the more expensive and rebuildable c/o's. I've spent more than I care to share by not doing it right the first time, and trying several different concoctions.

Yea - I'm being too cheap and to your point, why not do it right the first time. The new OMEs are actually more expensive than the Bilsteins :\

I think we need to address the ball-joints pronto, they are in horrible shape and unsafe. When one fails, best case scenario: you poop your pants, have to replace upper and lower control arms, ball-joints, shock and coil, brakes, wheel, maybe a tire, a fender, and a seat because that stain isn't coming out. I've also seen insurance co. total 4runners after it. Might be great if it doesn't happen on the interstate after a small bump and there's no kiddos in the truck. Not trying to scare you, well maybe . .

Yea that top one was jumping around in the socket - she is mostly a driveway queen atm!

. . but this thing needs to be de-fergified. BTW, that's your new personalized plate, "DEFERGD" once you're done.

Hehe - The whole thing is crazy - lesson learned: "less is more" a lot of times. AND - I guess "read the boards more" can also be applied to me, which is scary. I would have probably still bought the truck from the PO, though as he did give me a good deal on it compared to stock prices.

Point is, no rush to get new suspension up front, we've fixed a major issue, and simply compressing mine enough to rotate the top plate will fix the fitmit (free BTW). Then we could take out the preload spacer on yours, see if that takes the bow out of the coils Lemme know, we'll get together for round 2

All great points.

Here are a few picks of the rear, before and after - hard to tell, but the lower pic looks much better in real life, vs the pictures

 

[FlatlandTRD]

I still think it's a great 4runner! 2nd pic is so much better, as to where the suspension should be. The BL will give the clearance you need if there's any rubbing on tight turns.

$50 is quite a bit compared to free, plus you learn how to do it safely. Either way, you still get stuck removing and reinstalling them again, yeah

Also have plenty of cut off wheels in case the upper ball-joints need to be tweeked for the press to fit. Ahh, the smell of burning metal

 

[weejub]

Update

Jason and I had a big Sunday working on the truck. We got a ton done:

1. Swapped out to his old OME/Tundra shocks (my old ones were the same coils/shock, but bent and had a useless spacer)
2. Replaced left side ball joints and tie rod end, right side lower ball joint and tie rod ends

It was a great day and lots of work, but I learned a ton - thanks, Jason!


I've got it in for an alignment now. I also went ahead and had Atomic Fabworks (connected to SK Mechanic) in Olathe do the body lift - to be done today. I will post pics when done. The rear bumper would bang on the body, so this should solve that problem and make installation of some new rock sliders, easier.

Jason - I got my first "clap clap clap" noise from tire hitting inner plastic fender, so the pinch weld mod is being done ASAP when I get it home

 

[weejub]

Pick of the broken down left side:

 

[bigwapitijohnny]

Looking good!

Good progress on your rig! I'll tell you, I kinda miss my old rig...kinda.

Regards,

BWJ

 

[FlatlandTRD]

I've got it in for an alignment now. I also went ahead and had Atomic Fabworks (connected to SK Mechanic) in Olathe do the body lift - to be done today. I will post pics when done. The rear bumper would bang on the body, so this should solve that problem and make installation of some new rock sliders, easier.

Jason - I got my first "clap clap clap" noise from tire hitting inner plastic fender, so the pinch weld mod is being done ASAP when I get it home

May need to adjust the front bumper after the BL, do you know if it's the Tacoma or Prado bull bar? Prado is more adjustable, tacoma one just needs tweeking. (Edit; you have the tacoma bar, no biggie, just some holes to drill to reduce the gap). http://www.yotatech.com/f2/arb-tacoma-vs-prado-bull-bar-197207/

I'm betting the BL takes care of the plastic clap (sounds like a disease ). But the pinch weld mod is still needed. The list is getting smaller!

 

[weejub]

. . . But the pinch weld mod is still needed. The list is getting smaller!

Yea. The pinch weld is started - need to probably get the tire/wheel off to beat on it with a BFH.

Before / After pics of orig lift and newly lowered frame and body lift:

 

[weejub]

Good progress on your rig! I'll tell you, I kinda miss my old rig...kinda.

Regards,

BWJ

I'll trade ya straight across!

 

[bigwapitijohnny]

I'll trade ya straight across!

I'll trade you if you can get my iForce into that 4runner...

BWJ

 

[weejub]

I'll trade you if you can get my iForce into that 4runner...

BWJ

Yea - we might want to put one of those in a FJ60 instead

 

[weejub]

Jason and I got the last remaining "old" ball joint replaced yesterday. It was the right side upper.

The truck has had all the purely emergency items completed - - - huge thanks to Jason for all the help, time and tools.

It drives like a dream now.

Pics to follow.

 

[weejub]

Took the 4Runner to Wichita this weekend and back. It ran pretty good, but we did lose some inner balancing weights off the front wheels. Sams Club "fixed" them up and then I lost those driving around town, yesterday. Sam's put on the sticky-type vs the rim type - - no issues, yet . .

 

[weejub]

Wanted to also mention that if you ever need a sticker - flat oval one - for your ARB bumpers . . just email their sales guys direct and they will ship one out, no cost.

The official part is the "ARB Domed Badge."

 

[CrowleyFJ40]

Had my tire shop put balancing beads in the 4Runner tires Saturday. So far so good, helped with the 65mph shake. Better but not gone, but that's due to tire wear. I knock off wheel weights all the time wheeling so I wanted to give these a shot.

 

[weejub]

Colin - I'd like to try those - just scared to - never dawned on me how important they would be for off road!