The twins and stuff

[weejub]

Hi all. I am finally done transferring our vehicles from 3 to 2:

Old Vehicles:
FJ62 (family wagon)
Scion xB (wife's and family around town)
Accord (work car)

Traded the FJ62 to a good guy from NC who is improving it - giving it the love it deserves.

He traded us a 2002 4Runner that is relatively stock with some Tacoma Cast Aluminum Wheels and BFG ATs.


About this time, Zane also introduced me to Ryan who had an expedition-ready 4Runner for possible sale.

I was able to procure this REALLY nice vehicle!

New Vehicles:
2002 4Runner x 2

Attached are some pics of Ryan's old (my new) truck.

I just "detailed" it (as close as I get to doing that) and bought a rear husky liner cargo liner.

I also got some new BFG All Terrain T/A 285/75R16s for it. Rides nice and smooth down the road now!

Also had to reinforce the front and rear bumpers a bit. The previous owner, before Ryan, only installed 4 bolts in the front lower section of the plate connection of the bumper (to the lower frame). Also the back bumper was flopping around a bit.

Took it to SK Mechanics today in Olathe and they drilled new holes through the bumpers and frame and got both secured. They seem like pretty good folks AND they are just now working on a new off-road fabrication shop as part of their business.

More to come . . .

 

[weejub]

Updated lists:

• OME 91s strut w/ Tundra TRD coils
• OME N74e w/ OME 891 rear coils
• Differential Drop
• 1" Body Lift
• Shaved OEM front UCAs
• FZJ80 OEM forged alloy wheels
• 4.30s and e-lock rear from the '99
• VSC/TRAC disable switch
• Tacoma Safari Snorkel
• Airraid intake tube
• ARB Bullbar
• Budbuilt skid plate
• CBI Off Road Fab rear bumper with tire/fuel carriers
• New 285/75R16 BFG AT/TAs

Here is a list of stuff I want to do to it, short-term:

• Scangauge II
• Front Coil Overs
• New Bilstein Rear Shocks
• Raise the ARB bar to match body lift
• Add TRD transmission cooler
• Clean/fill transmission pan
• LIGHT WEIGHT rock sliders
• Add a rack to hold an ice chest - that I could swap with the 5 gallon can holders, as needed
• CB and HAM radio.
• Need a CB or HAM radio
• Backseat Husky Liner
• Would love to move to the smaller Odyssey batteries and add the dual battery system like this Toyota Tacoma 1st Generation (1995-2004) Dual Battery Tray | Columbia Overland (need to win the lottery first, probably)

Wife's 4Runner needs the following:

• New stock 1" lift (1999)
• Add TRD transmission cooler
• Clean/fill transmission pan
• Lower Ball Joints
• Front seat covers

 

[weejub]

The other half of the wonder twins (wife's stock 4Runner):

 

[bigwapitijohnny]

Gotta luv it...

Jamie,

Congrats on the rigs...3 generation 4runners in STEREO. Let's go get the beast dirty and go camping sometime...

Regards,

BWJ

 

[weejub]

Thanks, John!


The bad news it that I had the truck up on the lift today for an alignment at a trusted local 4x4 mechanic and we noted a lot of issues with the current system.

Basically the original owner (not the previous) tried to push this thing a little too far without also probably buying the additional items needed to hit the 3-4" lift height. It really needs some additional improvements or needs to be dialed back down a bit.

A few examples:

The upper ball joints hit the front coils when flexed. Seals are broken and at rough angles when flexed
The rear brake lines are not long enough for a flexed or lifted situation (almost looks like both will break at full extension)
The rear sway bar links are not adjustable and the rear axle is floating off center and incorrectly
The vehicle "crabs" a bit even with maxed alignment for the stock items

Nothing here is horrible, just needs to either have the next steps taken or be lowered a bit.

Given I want to really want this to be an "expedition" rig, I want to first be VERY reliable and then second be capable off road.

The great news is that I think I can simply substitute some readily available springs, lower stuff, relieve some stress on the system, etc. and have it all.

More to come!

 

[CrowleyFJ40]

Sounds like SAS time to me

 

[FlatlandTRD]

Thanks, John!


The bad news it that I had the truck up on the lift today for an alignment at a trusted local 4x4 mechanic and we noted a lot of issues with the current system.

Basically the original owner (not the previous) tried to push this thing a little too far without also probably buying the additional items needed to hit the 3-4" lift height. It really needs some additional improvements or needs to be dialed back down a bit.

A few examples:

The upper ball joints hit the front coils when flexed. Seals are broken and at rough angles when flexed
The rear brake lines are not long enough for a flexed or lifted situation (almost looks like both will break at full extension)
The rear sway bar links are not adjustable and the rear axle is floating off center and incorrectly
The vehicle "crabs" a bit even with maxed alignment for the stock items

First, congrats, very nice! The upper ball joints (seat) will hit the tundra coils as they are a little larger. Can shave down the seat a little bit, no biggy.

Get some extended stainless brake lines from a sponsor, helps with stopping too, no more flexy rubber nonsense.

The rear axle can be outfitted with adjustable panhard and anti-sway links, forgot the vendor for the panhard, but I thought there were a few.

Some with the LC coils in the rear have to carry additional weight to get them to settle, may have to go flex them out (once everything else is dialed in).

If you need any help, let me know. I've replaced the ball joints, added the tranny cooler, rebuilt front axle shafts, and a few other items Have the tools and garage space too. I also have some extra tundra coils if you need, CV boots, and miscellaneous other parts.

 

[weejub]

Sounds like SAS time to me

owgawd!

 

[weejub]

First, congrats, very nice! The upper ball joints (seat) will hit the tundra coils as they are a little larger. Can shave down the seat a little bit, no biggy.

Get some extended stainless brake lines from a sponsor, helps with stopping too, no more flexy rubber nonsense.

The rear axle can be outfitted with adjustable panhard and anti-sway links, forgot the vendor for the panhard, but I thought there were a few.

Some with the LC coils in the rear have to carry additional weight to get them to settle, may have to go flex them out (once everything else is dialed in).

If you need any help, let me know. I've replaced the ball joints, added the tranny cooler, rebuilt front axle shafts, and a few other items Have the tools and garage space too. I also have some extra tundra coils if you need, CV boots, and miscellaneous other parts.

Flatland - thanks. Let me show you some pics and see what you think.

I'm kicking myself for going with the 285/75R16s right about now as I would love to just remove a spacer or two on the front (10-20MM reduction) and swap the rear springs for shorter FZJ80s (2 inch reduction). I think doing both would relieve the stress and be more adjustable for alignment and really be a much more. Looks like to me, though, that the tires I have already rub (barely when turned all the way) and any lower and I'm putting more tire on the frame.

Rear has covered SS lines that are extended - again, they were just for a little shorter lift, I believe.

Based on the below info, I could swap my rear 21" Blue Pink White 9.25 wraps
and 21" Grey Orange White 9.25 wraps for one of the double pink 7 wrap springs and just lose 2" and help myself all the way around. (see pic of Panhard)

3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's - Toyota 4Runner Forum

Toytec just started selling the adjustable DOM, but that is $300 . . if i have to do a UCA for the front, that is more $$

For the front - not sure if I need these spacers or if I could drop two and gain 3/4" and if it would be worth it etc. (see pic)

All these first pics are of it normally resting and not flexed or lifted on lift.

 

[weejub]

This other pic is fully flexed example of issue with UBJ.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

you happen to know thread pitch and size for the adjustable links needed? I have a bunch of weld in inserts for 23mm at the house used to build Tie rods. Don't think toyota used a bunch of different stuff but never know. The inserts come in left and right thread and fit inside DOM tube. Took me all of 5 min to build a tie rod with em. Gotta have a chop saw, measuring tape and welder tho. If you measure I can provide the place to buy em. I'll have to dig in my receipt pile.

 

[Son of LC]

I've got a thread pitch gauge if needed.

 

[weejub]

Thanks, guys for the willingness to help!

Erik - the stock ones are not adjustable at all - are you saying we cut them, weld in an insert with a bolt and then they are adjustable?

Pics are of stock and of the Toytec adjustable:

 

[weejub]

The adjustable lower control arms push the back end out which allows it to actually swing back to the right. However, the upper control arms are also there, doing their thing.

The rear end issue is relatively easy compared to the issues with the front.

At this point, given I HAVE to lower the front, I do think the back end needs 7.5 or 8 wrap springs vs the 9.5 - it sits high, its too much lift it throw off the front end, etc. Its a 6" lift when only 3" is needed/wanted and the system is stressed.

I also may not even need the adjustable LCA bars if i simply lower it down with the shorter FZJ80 front coils.

 

[weejub]

Pics of the lower ball joint and tie rod ends. Just stretched a little far!

I just don't know if I can simply take out all those spacers and have the top of the spring on the mount without something.

 

[FlatlandTRD]

Jaime,

Sorry for the delay, and yes, if you can find the shorter coils for the rear, that would be perfect. Then we can remove the spacers in the front. Don't worry about your 285s, they will work fine, some of the rub is the increase in wheel size.

Hate to say this, but if we dropped the lift then added a 1" BL everything would be so much better. Where is it rubbing, may be as simple as the pinch weld mod, that fixed mine. It's amazing how much noise plastic against tires make

The ball joints need to be addressed, don't want that failing while driving=very bad. If those tundra springs are bad/wrong/shot, again, you're more than welcome to mine.

Oh, and those CV angles are absolutely unacceptable, the boots may be ruined, but that can be addressed once everything else is fixed. Don't buy boots, I probably have plenty of extras of those as well.

It doesn't look like it, but there aren't any spacers behind the wheels right?

 

[weejub]

Yea no spacers yet. I'll IM you for maybe a time to take a look at it? Thanks!

 

[IBCRUSN]

Roger Brown sells a real panhard drop bracket for the runners that appears to fit well and gets the panhard back pretty much level (parallel with the axle). I modified his 4runner bracket for use on my 80 and it's held up well.

Jason knows the body lift very well since he's got a 1" on his Taco and you'd never know it unless you're looking for it. Plus it'll aid in slider installation if you go with custom bolt-on or weld on, helps keep the belly flat.

 

[weejub]

Thanks, IB.

Jason did get a look at it this last week. We have a plan of attack!

I think the bumper is also rubbing on the body a bit, so a body lift would be great for that as well.

 

[weejub]

Update: Bottom line: Front is 0.5" to 1" lower and the back is 3-4" lower.

Huge thank-you to Jason for the help/work on the truck and letting me utilize his garage and tools.

We got the top spacer off the front and the new coils in the back.

The ball joints seem to all be happier on the front, but all need to be replaced. We waited on that as I think I need to go back with a new front system ASAP.

The rear . .holy cow! The coils the POx2 had in there were like 4" taller than the 3" taller OME upgrade we put in (it had a 7" lift!!). It was outrageous getting them out. The rear of the truck looks great now with the 3" lift.

Thanks again, Jason!

I'll post some pictures when I get some sunlight.