the Sandlot a Bantam T3C resto-mod
- Thread starter half k cruiser
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- #62
I'm not sure yet, the main thing was getting it driveable and testing it out. I will get a coating on is soon and for now it can just wear a tarp. I would like to eventually make a set of bows for it and come up with a canvas or vinyl cover.
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- #64
It's been awhile since I've posted an update here. The body work is as done as its going to get. I finally admitted that this is a 70+ year old trailer and its just not going to be perfect. I was able to work out a lot of the really bad areas. The lower portion of the bed as well as the inside fenders and the tongue basket have all been lined with UPOL Raptor. The rest is coated in Rustoleum Gloss Sand enamel. Everything is bolted back up and I've been doing some test fitting to see if it will require bows in order to fit all of our stuff for a trip.
love2fly
Flying the Mountains of the NW
Looks as you will be ready for that up coming summer camping. Those little trailers do a bang up job on transporting equipment to and from the site. Let us know on what you think of it after your first run.
Have fun and it is a good job you did.
Cheers
Have fun and it is a good job you did.
Cheers
What was your method of applying the Rustoleum?
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- #67
Laid it down with a fine nap 4'' Wooster. It's smooth enough it looks sprayed on. Used a small throw down brush in the hard to reach areas.
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- #68
I made a lot of progress on the trailer yesterday. I've been struggling with the tarp/cover issue, trying to find something decent. I finally found a 10mil PVC from Menard's thanks to the recommendation of @greentruck . It's seems very thin, I hope it holds up at speed. Also, I really didn't like the way things were lumped up underneath the cover and I was having to get very creative with the loading. So yesterday I dug through the metal bin, fired up the tube bender, and knocked this together.
I'm pretty happy with it and the tarp is a nice snug fit. For now all of the space issues have been solved. I haven't quite figured out the best way to tie everything, but it will get there.
I'm pretty happy with it and the tarp is a nice snug fit. For now all of the space issues have been solved. I haven't quite figured out the best way to tie everything, but it will get there.
Good Job!
Looks good.
Be cautious when backing up the first few times with that tongue basket. I suspect it's going to limit how tightly the trailer can turn to some degree. You wouldn't want to pinch the gas cans that are overhanging the rack edge with the bumper, for instance, when backing.
Be cautious when backing up the first few times with that tongue basket. I suspect it's going to limit how tightly the trailer can turn to some degree. You wouldn't want to pinch the gas cans that are overhanging the rack edge with the bumper, for instance, when backing.
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- #71
Backing is almost a no go with this thing. Once you jackknife it into its spot you can't recover it. So she's getting parallel parked or hand jacked into place. But you are correct, currently the basket will contact if the trailer is at an extreme angle. I think in the future I will put a sliding tongue on the front to correct both issues. My biggest concern at the moment is still the cover. I cinched everything down tight last night and it started pulling out one of the grommets that I'd installed. I think I stretched it a little too much. I guess I need to run the front a little looser then what I was thinking. I've never ran a trailer before let alone had to figure out a cover for one.
ntsqd
technerd
Three things that I've learned about backing up short coupled trailers:
A) When it jack-knife's, pull forward to straighten it out. Other than a lawn tractor no tow rig has a tight enough turning radius to catch and correct it.
B) Back up steering wheels straight, no continuous turns. When you need to make a correction, make short "jabbing" corrections and get back to steering wheels straight. "Jab" as often as necessary, but keep coming back to center. Longer trailers don't want or need this technique.
C) Use low range when backing up. Gives you a lot more time to make those corrections.
As a side comment, our TrailBlazer trailer's new frame has had an extendable tongue from the beginning. I've only ever used it extended when moving the trailer by hand. I have never, ever towed it with the tongue extended. Too much of a hassle to re-configure it when already coupled.
A) When it jack-knife's, pull forward to straighten it out. Other than a lawn tractor no tow rig has a tight enough turning radius to catch and correct it.
B) Back up steering wheels straight, no continuous turns. When you need to make a correction, make short "jabbing" corrections and get back to steering wheels straight. "Jab" as often as necessary, but keep coming back to center. Longer trailers don't want or need this technique.
C) Use low range when backing up. Gives you a lot more time to make those corrections.
As a side comment, our TrailBlazer trailer's new frame has had an extendable tongue from the beginning. I've only ever used it extended when moving the trailer by hand. I have never, ever towed it with the tongue extended. Too much of a hassle to re-configure it when already coupled.
Check out how this tarp is made, the hold downs are all reinforced. I bought this on the road a couple years ago because my canvas one ripped in route. It's made with sides and corners very heavy vinyl.
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- #74
Yeah, I haven't found anyone local that carries anything like that. With a trip coming up in a few days I don't have time to get one shipped in. But ideally, that's what I'd like to have.
So long as you're aware of it and are cautious about not getting boxed in, the basket will work for you. I know what you mean about getting ready for an outing and there's only so much time.
BTDT. It is easy to over stress things, especially with the first grommets you do. The next ones come out better. Little details make a difference and you discover that in doing the work and seeing the harsh feedback you get.
Something I've found that helps is to layer in a piece of nylon or canvas before installing the grommet to reinforce it. Especially with plastic, this limits the tendency to tear out a stretch, because it just doesn't allow that stretch to go as far. You can also get a slightly bigger tarp, turn UNDER the edges and apply grommets through the doubled material. The more grommets you install, the less stress, but this also requires corresponding tie downs, unless you use a "common rope" around the tarp tying the excess tie downs to it, then snagging the common rope under the tiedowns you do have.
scrapdaddy's tarp is great stuff and may be based on that turn-under method, but with lots of fitting and sewing, too distant to see the detail, but looks way more than adequate? I'd guess it wasn't cheap, although he clearly got what he paid for. If you can find a shop that does tarps for semi-trailers, they can set you up pretty.
BTDT. It is easy to over stress things, especially with the first grommets you do. The next ones come out better. Little details make a difference and you discover that in doing the work and seeing the harsh feedback you get.
Something I've found that helps is to layer in a piece of nylon or canvas before installing the grommet to reinforce it. Especially with plastic, this limits the tendency to tear out a stretch, because it just doesn't allow that stretch to go as far. You can also get a slightly bigger tarp, turn UNDER the edges and apply grommets through the doubled material. The more grommets you install, the less stress, but this also requires corresponding tie downs, unless you use a "common rope" around the tarp tying the excess tie downs to it, then snagging the common rope under the tiedowns you do have.
scrapdaddy's tarp is great stuff and may be based on that turn-under method, but with lots of fitting and sewing, too distant to see the detail, but looks way more than adequate? I'd guess it wasn't cheap, although he clearly got what he paid for. If you can find a shop that does tarps for semi-trailers, they can set you up pretty.
ntsqd
technerd
OR find a marine canvas shop. One of my local such shops can make us a fitted cover for our TrailBlazer camp trailer to replace the hard cover (a PITA to deal with in camp) from vinyl impregnated cordura-like (polymer, not cotton) canvas that they use to make waterproof covers out of. At the sharp corners the guy told me they could add a leather patch so that the cover material wasn't rubbing on them directly.
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- #77
@greentruck @ntsqd I appreciate all of the replies. I have a company in Salina, Kansas building me a flat cover out of 18oz vinyl with 12'' on center grommets. The rep told me that's what the over the road guys are using on their flatbeds. I'm hoping that thick of vinyl can withstand rubbing on the corners, but the reinforcement sounds like a really good idea.
The current cover fits like a glove at 6x8. I'm having them make this one 8'6"" on the long side to give me a little extra at the front and back.
The current cover fits like a glove at 6x8. I'm having them make this one 8'6"" on the long side to give me a little extra at the front and back.
Hey, that wouldn't be Longshot Custom Tarp would it. That's where I bought that yellow one from in Salina. He took pictures of it on the trailer and was excited about putting it on his website. We had left the St. Louis area and made it to Salina when my canvas tarp ripped apart.
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- #79
Small world, it's the same place. Coincidentally Longshot was the last place on my list of places to call !
That's funny, show him the picture of the yellow, he'll remember it.
