The LV that will be built first thread.

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Well I think Brando will be getting an engine this week. I've been working with 3_puppies and a few others to find out if their engine would be the right fit. Thanks for all the compression testing and question answering.

Cammy just pulled an engine from a 25,000 mile? F engine 71 40 series. He is going to throw in everything needed, from carb to rubber engine rubbers and the Tranny, but keeping the transfer case.

The plans arent solid yet, but It looks like he will drive 10 hours from cali to Portland where we will make the exchange, loading the engine from a truck bed into the back of my 80 series. I dont know the weight strain this will put on my rear axles, but I've had over 200 Laptops weighing 7lbs each in the back of my cruiser. The trick will be moving it over into my rig.

I may sand blast the engine bay out this weekend (pray for sun)... before I put the engine in... wont take but a few hours and $50 in primer/paint.
 
Wife had a "body shop" party tonight, so out to the garage. I was watching two kids as well. We hammered and sanded, and the 2yr old and 4 1/2 yr old unbolted my rear LV latch.

I got a bug tonight, just had to get something done. Sanded the tailgate to find bondo underneath in a few spots, Looking within, it could be removed and pounded out... but thats in 6+ years. The inside of the tailgate, looks like it was abused... For now, just sanded all the surface rust down and primed it with my last can of primer black I had on the shelf. The tailgate was very hard to open close, but with a little lube, it drops down with ease.

I really hope to have a motor in this thing in 2 weeks.
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Mike,

This might be taking your project a completely different direction, but figured I would share it with you. What about putting the drivetrain of a Unimog under your LV? I know that the widths and lengths are different, but you mentioned earlier of widening it this one. I've sat on this for a week or two now and it is funny that a unimog frame, engine and trans popped up on eRipoff. Heres the link. I didn't do any homework and someone else probably has done this, but I am gonna shoot off the cuff anyways.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unim...46093QQitemZ4606347038QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Dave
 
warrior_1515 said:
Mike,

This might be taking your project a completely different direction, but figured I would share it with you. What about putting the drivetrain of a Unimog under your LV? I know that the widths and lengths are different, but you mentioned earlier of widening it this one. I've sat on this for a week or two now and it is funny that a unimog frame, engine and trans popped up on eRipoff. Heres the link. I didn't do any homework and someone else probably has done this, but I am gonna shoot off the cuff anyways.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unim...46093QQitemZ4606347038QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Dave

Funny, I was actually thinking this yesterday, but it was a fleeting thought. I personally really like the LandCruiser chassis. That put together with the axles and power train really Gave LandCruiser its reputation. I will be looking for a DD for the wife probably so the 80 series with a 45lv on top sounds more appealing to her :).

Here is a picture of the transfer case / tranny I might pick up from a friend here in Seattle. He purchased 2 Pigs from me at one time months ago... and I threw this in to sweeten the pot. Looks Like I may be getting the setup back.

Great Idea Dave, just not my style "shrug"
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Tearing the Engine bay apart as recommended. Today documented close to all the nuts/bolts in the engine bay. I easily forget where stuff goes. All of the pictures are under the "brando" gallery on my site. Just sanded the fender gook down and painted over it. The fenders wont take much to blast out.

I wish it would stop raining. Too much moisture to blast.

Going to dissasemble and clean everything before putting the motor back in. Might rework all the brake line too.

Here are 3 pictures of 50 taken.
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Today Cammy drove from Cali to Portland. I drove from Seattle to Portland and Back

Cammy's miles one way 510
My Miles 410 Both ways

Did the swap (with attendents permission) in the parking lot right smack downtown. Was pretty funny doing this with people in business dress walking by.

I forgot my camera, so these are some from my phone... I forgot about this.

On the way home, stopped by a good Friend's down in Des Moins, WA and picked up a transfer/trans. He has the hydrolic adapter as well for the 3 on tree? but I didnt take him up on it because I dont know what it is to be honest "shrug".

Got home and unloaded 800lbs of steel. Also had a package of new motor mount rubber gizmo's waiting for me.

After inspecting the engine, I am almost convinced that it only has the 25,000 miles that were on the odometer of the truck it was pulled from.

Cammy can tell the story better but:

His firefighter friend found the truck while on duty puting out fires. He asked the lady next door if she wanted to get rid of it and she said yes. I guess her son died and it just sat back there for years.

Cammy did the compression check on this and it was 180/180/170/180/180. Is this good? I have no clue.

All my pictures of the engine are on my gallery

Here are a few of them
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Mikesta said:
Cammy did the compression check on this and it was 180/180/170/180/180. Is this good? I have no clue.

What little I know about compression tests is that it is important that all the numbers are close to each other. Personally, I would be happy with what you have.

Pretty cool engine. Very nice.

Dave
 
glad you made it back OK. Looks good and I agree with warrior compression looks good accross all cyl.
 
OK, in his haste to get the pics on the board Mikesta has a couple of key facts wrong. #1 Cammy's miles 610 one way. #2 compresion on the motor is 170-170-180-170-170-170.

The rest is pretty close so I won't split hairs. If you want to hear the whole story about my 40 you have to put the wife and I up at the Marriot;)

You Seattle boys need to give Mikesta a hand with that project so he can get it on the road soon.

Thanks Mikesta for the great mini-vacation!
 
I really look forward to working on this rig every day. Schedules will allow me to work on this m-f from 8-10pm and all day Saturday. All other times I am working or playing with my kids.

This weekend I swapped days and today was able to focus on the engine install.

Took off the fenders, bezel, hood. All 6 of the fender to cab 10mm bolts broke. No amount of penetrating oil would work. Had trouble with 4 other bolts. There are 4 bolts on each fender that screw into the frame. The top 2 bolts on each side snapped out. The right side bolts came out with some vicescripts. The left side are broken 1/4 inch in. Honestly dont know how to get those out.

After stripping everything down and scraping the grease off the frame.. the engine went in. Took 2 hours to get 2 main bolts and 6 rear bolts in. Had to put the jack under the bell housing and rework the engine straps as they were hitting the firewall.

Was a great feeling to finally get it in. Have a whole slew of parts to sandblast... have the equipment, but its has been raining nonstop for 3 months now
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A few more.

Going to get started on the transfer case... goal is to have it in next Saturday.
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Mikesta said:
Took off the fenders, bezel, hood. All 6 of the fender to cab 10mm bolts broke. No amount of penetrating oil would work. Had trouble with 4 other bolts. There are 4 bolts on each fender that screw into the frame. The top 2 bolts on each side snapped out. The right side bolts came out with some vicescripts. The left side are broken 1/4 inch in. Honestly dont know how to get those out.

Great Work!! That is a big accomplishment to get the engine bolted in. Looks great!

My vote would be to drill and re-tap those threads. One could use an easy-out, but if that breaks, then you are completely screwed.

My fenders are off and laying around. I am able to give you an exact size on bolt and thread if you need. That is if you choose to go this route.

Keep up the good work.

Dave
 
Not much tonight. But many questions. I am definitely the rookie of all these rebuilds.

Found my radiator base (shroud?) and put the radiator in it and set it up on the frame.

The hoses are still attached to the 1971 F engine and are of a different configuration than the 64 series, however, both end up at the same place on the engine. Do the LV and 40 series have the same radiator shroud? Seems like they would.

Took the linkage off the transmision/transfer and cleaned them up some. I will be replacing one of the rubbers that comes off the transfer.

The 3 PO's ago painted part of the transfer red. I want to get this off before installing. I spent around 2 hours cleaning up the transfer case... have around an hour left... will be perfect before putting it in.

What should I use to remove this paint. It cannot destroy the aluminum. Im open for Ideas.

Also will be looking for a rear driveshaft... as The truck is missing it. Do the LV's have a longer driveshaft?

Questions:

1. Do the LV and 40 series have the same radiator shroud? Seems like they would.
2. What should I use to remove this paint. It cannot destroy the aluminum. Im open for Ideas.
3. Do the LV's have a longer driveshaft?
4. When draining the oil, an odor of gas is present... do I need a new fuel pump?




Here are a few pics... as alway there are at least 10 more on my gallery.
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Don't worry about shape of teh radiator hoses. Just get them from the radiator to the motor without kinks. The bottom hose I gave you with the motor has a "splice" where the heater hose goes. You will need to have that if you want heat. Other than that you can buy a new hose that has nearly the same shape and trim to fit.

On your T-case, most paint strippers will react with alluminum. Short exposure should be OK just pay attention to severe reactions ie the case melting. Try the least caustic method you can find first and move up from there.
 
Got a little done today.

Pulled out some sheet metal and fired up the sand blaster.

Fenders: Blasted
Aprons : Blasted
Hood : Blasted
Bib : Blasted
Lights : Blasted

Fenders had not bondo/body work, but need a little dolly/hammering
Hood needs nothing.. perfect.

Now, just tyring to figure out what to paint it and what with. I have a devilbiss gun.. probably need to go to the body shop store.

Here are a few pics of progress... down to metal is good IMHO.
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All pictures can be found here: http://fjtoys.com/mytoys/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=1703


Here is front end, just sitting there.

- Paid $85 for some star dust about 6 months ago, because it is recoverable, simply vacuume, strain and reuse.
- Have spent probably 3 hours blasting (total time shooting sand) and have 2.5 of the 3 bags left.
- Last picture is my recovery system at work.
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Probably will paint it the original white and red. Paint is a long ways out though. Truck needs extensive body work. Front end wil be in primer with a sealer over it until I either completely:

- widen the rig 8 inches and mate to a 80 series drive train/chassis
- Buy floors and weld em in to bring back to original.

I am just amazed how good the parts cleaned up. It was all surface rust with some rust etched deeper in. The front end only needs about 4 hours of hammer work to get straight.

Slow, but other priorities come first! :)

Later on this year, I would like to load up all parts from both LV's and send them to the blaster. It is time consuming with a 80gallon. 7 minutes shoot, 25 minutes wait. 1 fender takes 1.5 hours to complete.
 
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