The Honey Badger (Story/Build of my FJ62) (3 Viewers)

[Kleatus]

Proper bearing clearance (or preload) is a prerequisite to long life and good performance with anything that rotates. Most rebuild kits don't come with shims, so make sure you have them handy when rebuilding transmissions, transfer cases, axles, etc. In this case I was able to get the end play for both shafts down to 0.003" which is at the low end of spec, right where I wanted it.
Finished off with the locking collar for 5th gear nut that is provided with the AA adapter kit, and it is ready to have the shaft trimmed for the adapter.

 

[Kleatus]

This pile of parts is starting to look like an engine..

And hey look who decided to join us in the shop!

 

[Kleatus]

So it begins.

 

[Kleatus]

Some more stuff out of the way.

The grime! It's white under that somewhere.

 

[Kleatus]

I might need to order the Summit or Hooker manifolds...

If you don't like that the new Muscle Car pans have an M18 thread for the oil filter (or if you have filters already for the "older" Chevys with 13/16 threads) just swap the nipple from your truck pan. One less thing to remember in the future, now the filter will match the rest of the engine year-wise.

37 ft-lbs + 140 degrees.

 

[cruisermatt]

I have the LS3 manifolds and they fit but they’re super annoyingly close to the frame rails. I had to notch my wheel well to get a wrench on one of the fasteners, otherwise weld the bolts to it or it’s a two person job
The summit manifolds fit like a dream and are well worth the $200

 

[Kleatus]

I have the LS3 manifolds and they fit but they’re super annoyingly close to the frame rails. I had to notch my wheel well to get a wrench on one of the fasteners, otherwise weld the bolts to it or it’s a two person job
The summit manifolds fit like a dream and are well worth the $200

Good excuse to put these on the shelf for another project. I have a very strong desire for something using these manifolds upside down and backwards.....

 

[Kleatus]

Summit manifolds on order with a trans mount I forgot to get in the last order.

I put this thing on.

I really wish there was another simple option for this combo. The only other way I know of would be a NWFab black box on the end of the factory NV4500 tailhousing to the split case. I don't think I will be lacking in gearing with a 6.34:1 first, 3:1 transfer case and 4:88's though....
So glad I am using the QuickDraw bell this time around. AA needs to step it up, or someone else needs to come forward. Cheap hardware, and the bearing surfaces for most of the bolts are as-cast and uneven, leaving the bolts cockeyed when torqued down. Not cool.

They need to face them off, and think a little harder about fastener access to properly torque everything. Anyway... rant over.

In other news the PoopDeville got pressed into service as a ladder to install some jungle gym stuff for the kids in the back yard at the request of the Boss...and I apparently forgot how bad cars are off the road.. forgive me, I've only done a few thousand miles since making this turd my DD...I also had to reroute on the way home as we apparently got 2" of rain in a quick burst while I was at work and my normal route was pretty wet. I chickened out when the water was over the door bottoms and moving pretty quick over the low water crossing, even just barely into it. It's been a while since I've had a car. I will say that Northstar sounds pretty sweet slinging mud at 5,800 rpm.

 

[cruisermatt]

every AA product includes a little bit of extra sadness.
I’m thinking I’m about 2-years out on starting my own cruiser adapters.

Also, I bet you’ll want to step those 4:88’s back up to 4.11 once you’re running with the new power

 

[samc2447]

There is a simple option for a transfer case that requires no adapter - Atlas. They'll make it however you want. It's just not the cheaper option.

 

[Kleatus]

There is a simple option for a transfer case that requires no adapter - Atlas. They'll make it however you want. It's just not the cheaper option.

Aren't they all centered rear output? That brings another set of hurdles.

I did consider retaining the Borg Warner 4401 that was behind the trans originally, they're pretty stout with a decent low range already.

 

[Kleatus]

every AA product includes a little bit of extra sadness.
I’m thinking I’m about 2-years out on starting my own cruiser adapters.

Also, I bet you’ll want to step those 4:88’s back up to 4.11 once you’re running with the new power

That sounds like a lot of work. I'm surprised you didn't just recommend I grab the sawzall and call Interco for a set of 40s .

I'll just have to see how it feels. I agree 4.88's will no longer be necessary, but it remains to be seen if they're too much - especially if I go to a true 35" tire in the future. I think gearing is often a perceptual thing for people. I don't think it will be all that crazy, will be very close to current RPM and I have no problem driving it 80 mph with the 3FE, but I admit it does get a lot buzzier and louder at 3,000+ RPM. Running an LS at 3,000 rpm cruise speed is not comparatively as "buzzy" IMHO. The overall gearing will not be far off from a factory 2500HD Chevy with 4.10 gears and stock 245/75R16 tires (which I have put many miles on with no complaints about gearing.)

People that are used to turd geared 1/2 ton V8 trucks from the 90s and 2000s with 3.08 and 3.42 gears, especially with larger tires don't know what they're missing.

 

[cruisermatt]

Ok… it’s not like Ive been running the exact same combos you are talking about for years or anything

I had 35’s for five years before I went to 37’s and I was seriously considering going to 3.70’s with the 35’s

 

[cheeese]

Excellent thread so far. Tuning in for how this continues.

 

[Kleatus]

Things are happening.

 

[Kleatus]

Ok sorry I wasn't done with the AA rant. I forgot how they use cheap course thread SAE hardware that doesn't quite fit right, and forget to include 4 of the bolts to attach the transfer case back half to the adapter.

Oh, and I'm glad I caught this... trans was locked up solid...hmm I wonder why? AA strikes again with bolts to long, even after I added washers under the heads.

And how the nut/tone ring for the JTR speed sensor threads onto the old A440 shaft just fine, but required heating, and way to much torque to install onto the AA spud shaft.... this all after gentle lapping of the threads.

 

[Kleatus]

Clutch stackup looks good, but I couldn't find the pilot bearing adapter that was too be included. May just make one or find another solution. I didn't realize how close the drivers side extra starter pocket was to the exhaust. It will need to be trimmed up. I don't know what it's for, maybe they use the same casting machined for different applications? Maybe so you can use the fwd car LS engines that don't have provisions for a block mounted starter?

Engine mounts from @Well Sorted seem to work out very nice.

 

[Kleatus]

I did spend a little time cleaning decades of grime out. Still need to do some cleaning up on wiring.

 

[Kleatus]

That extra starter pocket was bugging me. Now I remember why. It's nowhere to be seen on the photos Quickdraw shows on their webstore for the bellhousing..... one of these is not like the other one... frustrating.

 

[cheeese]

I would contact them and see if they shipped you the wrong SKU, especially since it only complicates your build.