I do have the front and rear bars and was frustrated with the lack of good instructions—surprised they haven’t gotten better. I pre-ordered mine so understood I was a bit of a guinea pig but they’ve been available almost a year.
In the end, since they’re one piece both the front and rear installs were straightforward. Cutting the rear crossmember was a PITA but not hard.
front bumper tips:
-remove the stock bumper and cut the bumper mounts off the frame. Make sure to grind the welds off from the mounts to allow the bumper slide onto the frame rails. The fitment is tight which is a good thing.
-have 2-3 people on hand even if using a hoist. The bumper wings are a tight fit to the fenders so having extra hands and eyes are helpful to get it lined up without damaging the fender. Plus it’s heavy/awkward being one piece especially if you have in it.
-winch will probably need to be mounted before putting the bumper on. I have a Comeup 12.5rs slim to go on and am hoping I can drop it in by removing the grill and front fascia below the head lights.
Rear bumper:
-long flexible blades for cutting the crossmember out are key. There isn’t room for cut off wheels. In hindsight, it would have been smart to cut the center section of the crossmember out then cut it off at the frame for better angles.
-same as before, grind welds flat so it slides on easily.
-you’ll need to cut off some of the captives nuts inside the frame. I believe this is in the instructions An oscillating multitool works well for this.
-mount all the lights and tread plate befoe
-DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THE NUT PLATES INTO THE FRAME RAILS BEFORE PUTTING THE BUMPER ON. Also, make sure they’re oriented correctly. They’re a funky shape to fit the frame and the diagram in the instructions you can’t quite tell which is which and I have pretty good spatial reasoning. This was trial and error and took a few tries to get right (even then it’s not perfect). If TCC put a few stickers on them during production it’d make things easy.
-again it’s all one piece and heavy AF so having hands to get it lined up right is very helpful.
-the bumper frame mounts are very long and clearances tight so you may need to enlarge some holes or massage with pry bars to get the mounting holes lined up.
-there were shim plates included. I did not need them.
-there is no exhaust hanger on the rear bar to put the rubber grommet on. For now I’m going to jerry rig something with a universal stainless steel mount from
summit racing. It’s been fine until now but I haven’t wheeled it hard. Frustrating since I saw another model of their bar had that. Options are cut off right behind the bumper, cut off and run a straight tail pipe (I’ve heard it doesn’t make it any louder), find a smaller resonator, or keep it stock. I thought stock it would hang down way too much but it’s not too bad—will take another route when/if it gets smashed.
-I used Rokblokz universal mudflaps. I used the original size but might go up a size if I did it again. They’re just about big enough to cover the opening inside the wheel well that gets exposed when you remove the stock flaps and bumper.
General tips:
-look at all the instructions on their website! I referenced a number of others for help - some are more detailed. The instructions for the non-high clearance rear 100 series bumper is more detailed and helpful. This is also where you’ll find the swing out instructions.
-there are videos on YouTube. Both from individuals and from TCC. They aren’t necessarily for the 100 but all their bumpers follow the same design/install principles for the most part.
-the sheer amount of hardware is a bit overwhelming on the rear bumper. it all logically falls into place and it was separated into groups though. The front bumper hardware was not organized like that but there is much less and it’s pretty obvious since it’s a 1 piece bumper.
Lights and wiring:
-there are no wiring instructions. Everything you need is on mud or in factory wiring diagram. I can’t blame them for not including this.
-turn signals - tap into the factory turn signals. I have a LED flasher module and run LEDs in the regular blinkers. No issues with hyperflash.
-fogs - I tapped into the factory fog light wiring. There are other options depending on how you want them to work. They function as the factory fog lights (only on with regular headlights) using the factory wiring and stalk. An LED is completely fine going through the factory harness.
-the fog lights - they’re actually more of a flood/work lamp. I opted to for Baja Designs S2 and they fit perfectly.
-rear bumper lights I wired into the taillights. A lot of people seem to wire into the trailer wiring. This was the cleanest and easiest to me. Ran the harnesses I made down through the quarter and out through the holes in the lower quarter. There are some plastic plugs that loosely fit in there—I drilled for the wires to pass through. Added a rubber grommet and sealed with silicone. It’s not water tight from the factory. I might try to find a rubber seal or grommet that fits the body (very low priority for me).
-use the good stuff. I sourced most of my wiring supplies and all the wire through West Marine or similar marine suppliers. Used
Amazon too when they had the good stuff I needed (Ancor loom or heat shrink for example).
-it’s definitely a good bit of wiring. I spliced and soldered. Having good tools/soldering iron makes it much more enjoyable.
I always said if someone made something that looks like an ARB but didn’t hang off so much I’d get it. I did and I’m so happy with it.
I think it’s the best looking rear bumper on the market too. Only Slee gives it a run for the money. The Dissent stuff is amazing but the modular design and number of exposed bolts wasn’t for me.
I’m building the truck for longer term trips out west when my kids get older so bumpers weren’t an immediate need. I jumped on the pre-order deal tariffs were looming so I said **** it and glad I did. I believe Long Range America did have a sale this past fall.
Long Range America, especially Aidan, were super helpful throughout the ordering, shipping, install process and follow ups.
TLDR: worth it, love em
@imperium also has the TCC front bumper.
We both were in the first batch of front bumpers stateside and dealt with mounting hardware issues. It took longer to get resolved than it should have but did get resolved. I assume new bumper orders are fine.
