I have searched MUD, the TIS and the OM. Nothing. The Tundra tailgates were marginal. The bracing angle on the 200 cables is very shallow. I use it to climb to roof and no problem yet. Are their loading guidelines somewhere? TIA
Tailgate Loading
- Thread starter chilibit
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I sit and stand on mine, I'm 240lbs, no problems yet, but I have thought about it a time or two
Me and my buddy were sitting on it drinking beer on Tuesday night watching storms pass through. Combined weight of 400...no problems.
I would think it is the cable break point that you would be interested in...not sure what that is.
I would think it is the cable break point that you would be interested in...not sure what that is.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for the anecdotal input. I suppose that if there were a large stack of V-shaped tailgates in the junk yards that the thread title would have prompted some cautionary input.
If that 'MPG since refuel' dash display is to be believed I got 20.4 at a lazy 70 MPH over 240 miles on grocery store regular. That can't be right. With 500 miles on the motor! Since new it is in the more expected mid 14's. The Tundra could not spell any number higher than 15.
If that 'MPG since refuel' dash display is to be believed I got 20.4 at a lazy 70 MPH over 240 miles on grocery store regular. That can't be right. With 500 miles on the motor! Since new it is in the more expected mid 14's. The Tundra could not spell any number higher than 15.
Not sure on the LC, but on my Tundra, those tailgates are pretty weak. I'm pretty sure Toyota came out saying that the '07+ Tundra tailgates are NOT load bearing. Pretty sad giving it's a truck. With that said, on mine I've loaded it pretty hard, but I think when i had a riding mower sitting on the tailgate it bent it a little bit and broke the welds. In other words, static weight can't be too bad.
-rockstate
-rockstate
I can vouch for 450lbs on numerous occasions, all static.
Has anyone seen a failure yet?
Has anyone seen a failure yet?
It’s a pretty hefty wire cable 3/16 inch or metric eq fixed in a thick bolt. Static load would be high.
I have two nice dents in my tailgate where it hit my bumper under minor load...
I recall a max of 350, or there about.
My steel bumper presents a taller contact point so YMMV...
I recall a max of 350, or there about.
My steel bumper presents a taller contact point so YMMV...
Yeah I had to shorten my cables with the rlc bumper. That’s not a function of cable strength though . . .
Very curious how you shortened the cables & successfully reconnected. Do tell...
I have not attempted, but definitely need to shorten.
@Markuson I bought some similar diameter cable and dual crimps at a hardware store, took off the existing cables, cutoff the fixed eye, removed tube and eye shields.
Crimp a loop, put on shield tube shield, crimp the other loop. You can test fit before crimping the last loop, just shim the gate to the height you want, take out the slack, and mark. Make it a bit shorter than measured as the loops flatten under load.
I found an angle grinder with cutoff wheel works great for cutting the cable.
I do get occasional cable twisting when closing the tailgate, which was mostly fixed by your magnet hack. The wire loops have a bit more friction than the smooth hardware eyes do.
Now that I think on it, a section of cable could be cut out of the stock wire and the ends crimped with a dual crimp. That would be better, not sure if the tube would fit over it, could just heat shrink that portion easy enough.
If I recall I took out 1/2” length or so, don’t cut the tube shorter I did on one side and it catches on the eye covers occasionally.
Total cost was $3. To try the alternate method is two dual crimps, $0.20 or so.
Crimp a loop, put on shield tube shield, crimp the other loop. You can test fit before crimping the last loop, just shim the gate to the height you want, take out the slack, and mark. Make it a bit shorter than measured as the loops flatten under load.
I found an angle grinder with cutoff wheel works great for cutting the cable.
I do get occasional cable twisting when closing the tailgate, which was mostly fixed by your magnet hack. The wire loops have a bit more friction than the smooth hardware eyes do.
Now that I think on it, a section of cable could be cut out of the stock wire and the ends crimped with a dual crimp. That would be better, not sure if the tube would fit over it, could just heat shrink that portion easy enough.
If I recall I took out 1/2” length or so, don’t cut the tube shorter I did on one side and it catches on the eye covers occasionally.
Total cost was $3. To try the alternate method is two dual crimps, $0.20 or so.
/\ Thanks!
And...glad to hear my old magnet hack for wayward cables is still workin for ya.
And...glad to hear my old magnet hack for wayward cables is still workin for ya.
The magnet hack refers to this thread I posted a couple years ago regarding the tailgate cable’s tendency to hang out of the edge gap when closed:
Easy FIX: Annoying Tailgate Cable
I’ll vouch for the magnet hack, it works like a charm!
Was this an issue on the 100? We’ve had 2-3 people sitting on the 04 100 tailgate easily exceeding 500#s and haven’t thought twice about it. Why would the 200 be any different?
It’s an issue if you change your bumper to aftermarket and it is a bit higher, then the tailgate lays on the lights and the plastic will break on the lights. But I’ve never worried about the supports failing.