suddenly died

[RavenTai]

Your meter has an unusual scale, most digital meters output directly in ohms, yours apparently does not,

But anyway some resistance between pins 1 & 3 is OK, this is the coil side of the relay, it is a long thin wire wrapped many times around a ferrous core (usually iron) to form an electromagnet. It will have some resistance but not to much, .065 is closer to no resistance (.001) than it is to complete open (1.0)

If you ever feel you need a new meter take a look at a Fluke , their meters are very good. my Fluke 73 series II has seen lots of use for 11 years and is still accurate.

 

[loquito]

If by FJ80 you mean a 3FE powered 91 or 92 then your most likely suspect is the EFI relay and its wires, there is a fix, one of the 3FE guys or a search can give you more info.


Loquito, on your 94, Your original post sounds a lot like a bad fuel pump relay, first time mine went it caught for a second (residual fuel pressure) then nothing but if you have fuel coming out the return then the pump is running, that is the way that I found I had no fuel pressure, when I pulled the return line nothing came out, when I pulled the whole regulator off the rail still nothing came out. I guess your fuel pressure regulator could be bad and letting the fuel out at to low of a pressure but that is unlikely.

You have compression. compression does not disappear over night without makign a lot of ugly noises.
You have spark in open air, (not a complete test but go with it for now)
You should have fuel pressure but do you have fuel getting past the injector?

Does your MIL/SES/CEL light come on when you turn the key to on? On my 96 it is a yellow light with a picture of an engine with the word “check” underneath, I would think it would be the same image on a 94

If this light does not turn on with the key on the engines computer is not operating and the injectors will not fire.

Likely cause is the EFI relay, the EFI relay is more reliable on the 1FZ powered 80’s but still can go bad. Other sources of no power to the computer are bad Fusible links, or a bad main fuse AM1 50 amp. Or the 15 amp EFI fuse, or possibly the ground point on the intake manifold. Or the wiring in-between.

Turning off the key before it warms up is not related to this problem

Just out of curiosity was the spark blue or orange?

Hi RavenTai
yes when I turn on the key I get the check engine light.
are the two wires going into the black box the only two fusable links. I did like Beo said and they show continuity. the other wire, the yellow with red stripe I believe that has the grey conector. the one next to the fusable links by the battery.

When I had this connection disconnected I did Not get many lights on the dash with the key on. When I hooked this connector back up I got all of my dash lights back including the check engine light,So can I assume this wire/connection is fine?

I checked the spark again, orange with blue at the very tip.

Where to next?

 

[RavenTai]

Ok so the computer is powered, that and your testing sayes not the EFI relay. on my 96 there are three fusible links. the third goes to a plug in the harness near the other two. not sure of same for a 94.

orange spark can indicate weak spark, wiel is is sparking it is easier for it to generate a spark in open air than in the higher density at TDC of compression. the orange could also be from to large of a gap though. this is where spark testers come in handy.

since your computer is powered you may want to check for codes (papaerclip on a 94) having not run yet it may or may not set a code is there is a problem in the engine control system.

I like Dougs Idea, see if it runs on ether.

 

[loquito]

Loquito,

One of the most efficient diagnostic tools I keep handy that is very effective for an engine that won't start is 'starter fluid'. Remove the big air intake hose (black) feeding the throttle body, but keep it laying right there as you fire some starter fluid into the open throttle body (hold butterfly open while spraying). Then immediately push the tube back on so the air flow meter in the air cleaner end is registering and try to start it. No need to tighten - just push it on.

If after a few tries you don't get it to run briefly (couple seconds at most) on the starter fluid then it's an ignition problem. Even if it only hits for a brief moment and dies then you know the problem is instead fuel. All you're doing is putting something in the cylinders that WILL burn.

Be conservative in terms of safety, have an extinguisher handy and keep your face away from any ignition source. Ventilation, etc. Fire into the TB for 2 full seconds, then give it a whirl. A can is 89 cents.

DougM

Okay I tried the starter fluid method, the first few times I got nothing but cranking, BUT when I retried the starting fluid method and moved the big bundle of wires that disapear under the intake she tried to catch, only for a second then she just turns over again.

 

[loquito]

Ok so the computer is powered, that and your testing sayes not the EFI relay. on my 96 there are three fusible links. the third goes to a plug in the harness near the other two. not sure of same for a 94.

orange spark can indicate weak spark, wiel is is sparking it is easier for it to generate a spark in open air than in the higher density at TDC of compression. the orange could also be from to large of a gap though. this is where spark testers come in handy.

since your computer is powered you may want to check for codes (papaerclip on a 94) having not run yet it may or may not set a code is there is a problem in the engine control system.

I like Dougs Idea, see if it runs on ether.

I have to put the lead very close to the ground to get it to spark, the FSM says .5 inchs away from ground to test for spark, mine sparks at about 1/4 an inch away from ground.

 

[Beowulf]

... and moved the big bundle of wires that disapear under the intake she tried to catch, only for a second then she just turns over again.

That big bundle of wires has the wires to your injectors and to your ECU. An open could be interrupting the fuel signal. Inspect it for problems; at the EGR valve, where it goes into the firewall, and under the glove box where it goes into the ECU.

-B-

 

[loquito]

well I went out to work on the truck more, I wiggled around the wire bundle that goes under the intake and worked the gas while my wife turned over the motor. The engine cought at W.O.T and stumbled along for a minute then she leveled off and is idleing like normal.

I tried moving around the wire harness while she was running and there is no change in the running of the engine, I then shut her off and started her again and she started right up like normal.

I am at a loss and am thinking it's somthing like Pres Doug said about a shorting out wire.

Thank you guys for your help, I try not to post on the board unless I can't figure it out, but with you guys offering advise and the FSM tests I felt confident trying to figure this out.

ILUVMUD

Steven

 

[landtank]

WOT is when that fuel relay switches over to the other side. Clean that relay. If you have a bad contact ther you could get enough through to pump some fuel but not enough to develope pressure.

I'm pretty certain on this.

 

[powderpig]

You could also bypass the relay and go from the power wire to the wire without the resistor(high voltage) to the fuel pump. The wiring diagram is in the back of the book. Jump it and see what happens. If it works well, then the relay is not doing so good. You can also bypass to the resistor (low voltage)side of the circuit and see if the pump works good again. If not then either the resistor is not doing so good or the pump is going bad. Other thoughts on the Fuel pump circuit. I ended jsut replacing the relay with 215k miles on my 93. The contacts had worn pretty bad (about 2/3 gone) on the low voltage side of the relay. Not really worth cleaning with that much worn away. later robbie

 

[loquito]

You could also bypass the relay and go from the power wire to the wire without the resistor(high voltage) to the fuel pump. The wiring diagram is in the back of the book. Jump it and see what happens. If it works well, then the relay is not doing so good. You can also bypass to the resistor (low voltage)side of the circuit and see if the pump works good again. If not then either the resistor is not doing so good or the pump is going bad. Other thoughts on the Fuel pump circuit. I ended jsut replacing the relay with 215k miles on my 93. The contacts had worn pretty bad (about 2/3 gone) on the low voltage side of the relay. Not really worth cleaning with that much worn away. later robbie

Hey Rick and Robbie
I will take out the relay on my next weekend, the truck has been running fine since I got her started, but I do not want to be broken down on the side of the road. I let you know how the relay looks if your interested.
Thanks again you guys.
Steven