sticking throttle cable

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Joined
Jul 18, 2003
Threads
21
Messages
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Having another problem with my 73 fj-40.
Throttle cable is sticking more than I feel comfotable with.
cable was oiled and moves freely when not connected.
When connected,and springs all in place, in really binds up. Does not pull smoth or return smooth.On my 73, it goes into a loop-de-loop from the firewall to the carb. (stock carb).
Even with the linkage rod removed from the accel pump, the cable does not move freely from idle position, to fully depressed.
The mounting point on the firewall lines up the pedal with the cable correctly with no binding.
Is there a wonder lube I havent found yet that will help this, or is the cable (30+ years old)just too old and,or rusted inside to not bind up?
Any ideas??
Thanks, Rob.
 
What did you use for lube?

I've always used dry graphite. There's also liquid lubes that are graphite based. Some cable jackets have a sleeve (usually teflon) in them that will swell if you use the wrong lube.
 
I just used a multipurose pennzoil lube. Was going to the local hwdr store to look for some graphite, or even something with teflon.
Being as old as the cable is I dont think it was made with teflon. Just a steel cable and jacket.
 
You say it moves free when disconnected. Does this mean it moves free when it the same positions as when it is connected or moves free when straightened out? Normally if it move free when disconnected then either the connection "kinks" or binds up the cable or the thing it connect is bound-up and too hard to pull.

If the carb moves free and there are no kinks, try a graphite lube (I use bicycle chain lube) after that you might have to try a new cable

Nocents
 
well, once the cable is undone at the mount, two 17mm nuts sandwiched together, it does move freely. Once put back in the loop-de-loop, it does bind up before attaching the cable to the hook.
 
If I understand you correctly, the "loop-de-loop" is the cable housing? No binding at the firewall? And the carb isn't the source?

Any noticeable "stretch points" in the cable housing? They'll cause a terrible bind when bent (they form a kink). Best way to test this is to take the housing and bend it. If the radius is inconsistent, you know where the problem lies.
 
When I was younger and had much more time to waste, I tried and tried to do things like get 30 year old cables to work. Now, if I can buy a new one for 20 bucks [and that is what one of these runs; I should know!] I wouldn't waste my time, especially on something so potentially dangerous.
 
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