Steering shaking when hit bumps

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Oct 26, 2010
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I just read on another post that if the ahc fluid wasn't flushed and bled properly it could affect operation of dampening abilities of the shocks? Prior to my purchase the previous owner had the system flushed at a non dealer establishment. The receipt shows that they did use a toyota part number for the fluid. This service was done about a year or two ago but only about 3000 miles ago. (I know whoever did it wasn't too careful as they didn't even bother to put the acess cover in the right rear wheelwell back on. Any thoughts about this? I am pretty handy maybe I can try changing the fluid myself>
 
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Ok checked out the front end. Jacked each tire up independently. No play at 12 or 6 o clock. When I grab the tire at 3 and 9 o clock I have some play (about 1/4 inch or less. I can see the tie rod moving at what appears to be the inner joint. The rack boot moves in time with the tie rod. I don't see the play on the outer tie rod to knuckle joint. It does this on both sides when jacked up separately. With both front tires off the ground when I try at 3 and 9 it moves both tires the same amount in the correct direction of force. I think there may be play in the inner tie rods. I will have my mechanic at work look deeper. As a side note I don't see the metal body of the rack moving when I get the play so I think rack bushings are ok. Does it make sense that worn inner tie rods could be making the steering wheel shake when hitting bumps (I think so). Anyone have experience just replacing the inner tie rods and not the whole rack?
 
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May be...
Another Noticeable symptom of toe rod end is steering wander + Steering vibration on 60+ mph.

It’s also possible that they are just starting to go bad.
You’ll have do the alignment after replacing those...
 
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May have been asked or answered, but if you got an alignment and they took away any caster that could cause it...The more caster you have the better it tracks straight and resists steering inputs from roadway.

Could also just be the nature of the tires. Fresh rubber is a bit oily and squirmy for a while sometimes.
 
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Does anyone know if I should be getting any movement when I do that test at 3 and 9 o clock? Would like to hear from others that may have checked that on our trucks
 

Taco2Cruiser

BudBuilt. Toyota armor and custom fabrication.
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Ok checked out the front end. Jacked each tire up independently. No play at 12 or 6 o clock. When I grab the tire at 3 and 9 o clock I have some play (about 1/4 inch or less. I can see the tie rod moving at what appears to be the inner joint. The rack boot moves in time with the tie rod. I don't see the play on the outer tie rod to knuckle joint. It does this on both sides when jacked up separately. With both front tires off the ground when I try at 3 and 9 it moves both tires the same amount in the correct direction of force. I think there may be play in the inner tie rods. I will have my mechanic at work look deeper. As a side note I don't see the metal body of the rack moving when I get the play so I think rack bushings are ok. Does it make sense that worn inner tie rods could be making the steering wheel shake when hitting bumps (I think so). Anyone have experience just replacing the inner tie rods and not the whole rack?
Yep, there is the issue (or at least part of it). Inner tie rods are easy and the same procedure as every other Toyota IFS since ‘86.

The “shake” is the tires shifting back and forth with road changes (probably between + and - toe values) and you’re feeling that in the steering wheel. People always want to say to get another alignment or the tires may be bad, but that’s not the real issue. Long ago, I used to work at a Toyota and this is a pretty easy diagnosis. And these things become easier to identify with other new items, like those new tires your truck just got.

However, I will always say that while one component may be the worn the most, another component may not be far behind in its life. So don’t be surprised if the 200 doesn’t track life a new one with inner rods replaced. It just means you’re on your way to getting there.
 
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Cool. I will report back after install. Going to do outer tie rods at the same time.
 
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That might get expensive. I will say fix what’s broken. I wanted to do the same for my GX and my mechanic strictly told me that it only need Left outer tie rod end and hub, that fixed the issue.
Good to get a proper diagnosis before you replace parts.
I got burnt recently where I replaced half shaft cv axel on my 2011 Honda Accord (daily driver) due to a front left clack noise when stepping on brake but problem is still there.. my mistake ( i didn’t get proper diagnosis but assumed)
 

Taco2Cruiser

BudBuilt. Toyota armor and custom fabrication.
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Inner tie rods are about $200 per side. Outer tie rods are $36 per side. If inners need it, it is a good idea to do outer while the tie rods are separated and an alignment will be needed. Let us know @TTO5
 
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Ok. Installed new inner and outer tie rods and did wheel alignment. Condition seems a littleless severe. I took a little video of the steering twitch. It twitches a little more on even rougher roads. There is one early in the video at 20 seconds another at 48 to 55 seconds. I think this might just be a case of having that stock short sidewall I'd imagine a taller sidewall Tire would absorb more of this. I'm all ears

Watch "Lx570 steering wheel twitch" on YouTube
 

Zjohnsonua

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Got a report that you can post from your alignment? If your last shop didn't give you one, try one of the shops that give a free alignment check and see if they'll provide you with one after an inspection. That bump doesn't look quite right to me. Something is likely a bit misadjusted or loose.
 
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The toe is off on the before readings because it's after I changed the tie rods . Thanks

20190409_200619.jpg
 
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Took a road trip this weekend and made an observation I think the shaking in the steering is better when the shocks are set to full sport mode. Does anyone think worn shocks could cause the steering wheel to twitch over rough bumps? No leakage observed from the shocks . I have 130k on the truck. Would really like to solve this without throwing Parts at it. one more thing to note after I was done putting the inner and outer tie rods in I jacked up just the front passenger tire and grab the tire at 9 and 3 and still had some movement with the other front tire on the ground when I observe the movement I could hear it was actually turning the steering wheel slightly back and forth I tried the same thing with the driver side and I had the same result I can hear the steering wheel moving back and forth in time with the tire moving back and forth not sure how that can do that if one of the front tires is on the ground somebody must have the answer
 
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Anyone think the ahc fluid level or if there is air in the system can cause it? Ahc works fine but I have had this truck up on the lift and jacked up without turning the ahc button off as I recently saw that warning label on the side of the center console. Probably grasping at straws
 
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Oct 26, 2010
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I guess I will reach out to a lexus dealer. I am actually an assistant service manager at a Toyota dealership we hardly ever see any Land Cruisers and zero lx570.
 
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Oct 26, 2010
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Is there a write up on replacing the front and rear shocks on Lx570?
I am still leaning towards worn shocks and thinking of replacing them. I have confirmed that shock setting switch changes the sensitivity of the steering wheel twitch. Thanks
 

lcgeek

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Have you driven any other 200's on the same road to compare and contrast? My 200 steering wheel is not 100% insensitive to the road. Are folks saying they get zero movement in wheel regardless of what the tires and suspension absorb?
 
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