Steering issue, need ideas/input

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PNWGERMAN

PNWGERMAN

Joined
Jul 13, 2023
Threads
12
Messages
127
Location
Tacoma, WA
Howdy all,

So the '91 LC has a new steering issue. I need some ideas about what it may be because I'm scratching my head.
About two years ago I replaced all the steering links with thick DOM tube, and new ball the joints. The front end also got all new bushings for everything. I also rebuilt the front axle about a year ago with a rebuild kit. The steering pump is still original (is dying) and the steering box is original.

Here's the issue. When steering left and only left, some times there is an audible clunk, and the car feels like it continues strait for a second and then turns left. It is almost the same sensation as turning and sliding on ice. Like turning, loosing traction, car continues forward, finds traction, and turns. It is not a consistent problem, only happens some times. If I put my hand on ether of the front fenders and have my wife turn lock to lock, I can some times feel a pop when the clunking sound happens. Its freaking me out a bit, especially since it's my wife's DD.
I've already checked all the ball joints, and links. None of them are loose or damaged and have no play.
I also checked all the steering shaft joints and they look fine and are tight. The rag joint below the steering wheel is soft but not torn or damaged.
My only guess is some sort of damaged gear in the steering box, causing a dead spot when turning right.

Any ideas or things I should check?
I might get a jack under the front axle when I get home today, and triple check it all.
 
Last edited:
You can also check your knuckle hardware and trunnion bearings for play. It's much easier to diagnose when it's on jack stands.
 
ppc said:
@PNWGERMAN ,

Have you checked that the clamps on the tie rod/relay to ends are not interfering or binding on anything?
Click to expand...
Good thought, sadly that's not it because my custom tie road and drag link no longer have the clamps on them.
 
mudgudgeon said:
Check the frame around the steering box. The frame is prone to cracking. You will feel a click/clunk when the cracking is bad enough.
Also check the panhard brace at both whets where is arched to the frame, these areas can also crack
Click to expand...
Ill definitely check this.
 
NCtoyota said:
You can also check your knuckle hardware and trunnion bearings for play. It's much easier to diagnose when it's on jack stands.
Click to expand...
Right now I'm thinking its the trunnion bearings. I did replace them when I did the rebuild. How ever, I pulled over after getting gas on the way home and had my wife work the wheel while I looked at the knuckle balls. I was able to see the driver side knuckle pop up and down a bit when the wheel was turned.
 
PNWGERMAN said:
Right now I'm thinking its the trunnion bearings. I did replace them when I did the rebuild. How ever, I pulled over after getting gas on the way home and had my wife work the wheel while I looked at the knuckle balls. I was able to see the driver side knuckle pop up and down a bit when the wheel was turned.
Click to expand...

Your reference in post #1 to "ball joints" leads me to believe that you are not familiar with Land Cruiser parts vernacular. I'm not sure what you mean by the knuckle pop and down. I'd suggest you take a video of what you are witnessing. It could be the trunnion bearings or a birfield. Not impossible to be a problem on driver side but with the problem occurring on right turns only I would think the passenger side is more likely.

Have you checked the grease level in the knuckles?
 
ppc said:
Your reference in post #1 to "ball joints" leads me to believe that you are not familiar with Land Cruiser parts vernacular. I'm not sure what you mean by the knuckle pop and down. I'd suggest you take a video of what you are witnessing. It could be the trunnion bearings or a birfield. Not impossible to be a problem on driver side but with the problem occurring on right turns only I would think the passenger side is more likely.

Have you checked the grease level in the knuckles?
Click to expand...
Sorry I am very dyslexic, and even though I'm in my late 30's I still get my left and right mixed up. Embarrassing, but it is what it is. So yeah it happens when I turn left, not right. Ill edit the OP.

When I say ball joints I mean this part.
HTB1FQ.sLXXXXXXAXpXXq6xXFXXXn-741085017.webp


As fare as I know the knuckle ball is the round bit at the end of the axle, and the knuckle is the bit that fits around it and allows the wheel to turn right and left. Just like a ball and socket joint.
I can see the knuckle move slightly up and down when the steering wheel is moved lock to lock. This movement also corresponds with the clunking noise I am hearing and feeling.
 
Last edited:
PNWGERMAN said:
When I say ball joints I mean this part.
HTB1FQ.sLXXXXXXAXpXXq6xXFXXXn-741085017.webp
Click to expand...
That is not a ball joint. That is a TRE - Tie Rod End

A "ball joint" is the steering pivot point on vehicles that have wheel mounted between upper and lower control arms. In the Land Cruiser the pivot point is the trunnion bearings. That is what prompted me to ask the questions I did.
 
PNWGERMAN said:
I was able to see the driver side knuckle pop up and down a bit when the wheel was turned.
Click to expand...
Any vertical movement in the steering knuckle is very very wrong.
If you don't have the Toyota factory service manual (FSM) that has procedures and torque specifications, I STRONGLY suggest you download it from the resources section immediately.
Again, something is very very wrong.
 
Got it fixed today. It was the drivers side trunnion bearings.
I got the knuckle rebuild kit from Trail Gear. Apparently the bearings they supplied weren't great.
The new ones are the good Japanese ones.
Thanks for all the help 👍
 
jonheld said:
Any vertical movement in the steering knuckle is very very wrong.
If you don't have the Toyota factory service manual (FSM) that has procedures and torque specifications, I STRONGLY suggest you download it from the resources section immediately.
Again, something is very very wrong.
Click to expand...
I always use factory torque specs and a good digital torque wrench.
 
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