Starting Trouble

[UWdave]

My truck just won't turn-over. Just a click. My problem is definitely not fuel related.

I ordered the rebuild kit from CruiserDan.

Turns out, my LC already had a rebuilt starter installed. Apparently the '93 didn't have a 2kW option. Mine had the 2kW. That is why my part number has a -64 on the end.

CruiserDan recognized this right away.

 

[Driley]

I also had the same starter issues that you described and changed out the contacts and plunger. About 6 months later it started acting up and just decided to change out the starter with a reman. OEM (paid ~ $200.00) and have not had any starting issues in about a year.

Hopefully the contacts and plunger exchange fixes your problem. It is a great time to change out the PHH when you have the starter out (gives you a little bit extra room). Moving the transmission dipstick tube out of the way also helps with the starter removal (2 bolts if I remember correctly).

Riley

 

[UWdave]

I also had the same starter issues that you described and changed out the contacts and plunger. About 6 months later it started acting up and just decided to change out the starter with a reman. OEM (paid ~ $200.00) and have not had any starting issues in about a year.

Hopefully the contacts and plunger exchange fixes your problem. It is a great time to change out the PHH when you have the starter out (gives you a little bit extra room). Moving the transmission dipstick tube out of the way also helps with the starter removal (2 bolts if I remember correctly).

Riley

PHH = Pesky heater hose?

 

[Driley]

PHH = Pesky heater hose?

Correct!

 

[wxm]

Hopefully the contacts and plunger exchange fixes your problem. It is a great time to change out the PHH when you have the starter out (gives you a little bit extra room). Moving the transmission dipstick tube out of the way also helps with the starter removal (2 bolts if I remember correctly).

Riley

Good call. Riley! The timing is perfect. I had to rebuild my starter contact in middle of the winter, did not want to mess around the water in sub zero weather, otherwise it would be perfect to access the PHH with starter out...

 

[UWdave]

Went ahead and order a new hose and clamps from:

index


Owning a used rig is so much fun.

 

[Driley]

Went ahead and order a new hose and clamps from:

index


Owning a used rig is so much fun.

You will find a lot of "while you are in there..." advice here on the forum. The only thing that I have ever changed out on my LC that I was forced to was the starter (and it still worked - just had the intermittent problem). Everything else has been preventive and OCD.

You will probably want to do a coolant flush when changing the PHH. The block drain is in the general area of the PHH and you should at least drain that before attacking the hose. Just be careful of the electrical connections in the PHH area (attached picture).

I had good luck by doing the following:

1. Drain the coolant
2. Pull the hose off at the top of the hard pipe that goes from the PHH to heater valve (rear of engine - up against the firewall on the driver's side). This will let the hard pipe flex enough to get the new PHH on.
3. Reach from under the vehicle and loosen the middle bolt holding the hard pipe. This is done blind and takes a little bit of time. Some people can not get to the bolt. Just do not completely remove the bolt - just loosen it. You may be able the flex the bottom of the pipe enough without loosening the bolt.
4. Using a dremel with small cutting disk to remove the factory "sardine can" clamps.
5. Cut the old PHH off with a razor knife.
6. Pull / twist the hard pipe out of the way. I used a long screwdriver to flex the hard pipe enough so the new PHH could slip on the nipple.
7. Lube the new PHH with KY or any lubricant of choice.
8. Slide the new PHH on the engine nipple (with both clamps on loosely).
9. Twist / push the hard pipe back into place (it took some force to get the pipe to slip back on to the new PHH - lube is your friend).
10. Tighten everything back up.

Having the trans. dipstick tube and the starter out of the way give you that little extra working room you need.

If you run into a problem, just stop and take a break. This is a frustrating job, but much easier with the right tools and plenty of time.

Good luck!

Riley

 

[Driley]

Here are some more photos.

Picture #1: The hose at the top of the hard pipe that you want to remove to help flex the pipe to get the new PHH on.

Picture #2: Clamps cut and old PHH partially cut.

Picture #3: Money shot!

 

[UWdave]

I love friendly forums.

Yeah, looks like I have some work next week.

Part on the way:
- Starter rebuilt kit
- PHH replacement
- Thermostat

 

[Driley]

I love friendly forums.

Yeah, looks like I have some work next week.

Part on the way:
- Starter rebuilt kit
- PHH replacement
- Thermostat

Post up or PM me if you run into any issues. I did all of that about 1.5 years ago and still have some of the pictures from it. I flushed the coolant and changed out the thermostat, PHH, the 3 big hoses in and out of the radiator and the 2 heater hoses at the rear heater valve. The hardest part for me was dealing with the OEM clamps on the big hoses (I should have just purchased new constant tension clamps for everything).

Take your time and enjoy saving some money doing it yourself.

Riley

 

[UWdave]

So a bunch of wrenching this weekend.

1) Starter removed & contacts replaced
2) PHH swapped
3) thermostat replaced
4) fluid flushed and filled

Overall everything went fairly well. I think "pesky" in PHH is a little bit of an understatement.

The only problem is I'm still having the starting issue:

Symptoms are the same:
- Turn to run, all the dash lights turn on
- Turn to start, get a single click from the engine bay
- Return to run, no lights on dash, clock or dome lamp
- If I wait in run, the lights turn back on in 10sec
- If I turn off then back to run, all lights come right back on

Thoughts
1) I wanted to check to see if starter is the actuall problem and rule out the ignition switch. I thought I could do this by removing the solenoid wire and directly wiring it to the battery. If the starter turns, then it is the ignition (and I need to create a new search for info/troubleshooting). If it doesn't turn, then it must be the starter. Is this safe/smart?

2) Check resistance.
a) across connection in black box behind battery
b) from battery line terminal to starter lug
c) battery + to starter ternimal
d) starter housing to motor block
e) motor to battery -
f) battery - to starter case

 

[77fj40]

when you turn the key to the "on" position does the check engine light come on? If not, it indicates a faulty EFI relay, which is a common problem on the 91-92 fj80

 

[FrankTorres]

I could do this by removing the solenoid wire and directly wiring it to the battery. If the starter turns, then it is the ignition (and I need to create a new search for info/troubleshooting). If it doesn't turn, then it must be the starter. Is this safe/smart?

Yes, this would rule out the starter, and point to the ignition switch(most likely), neutral safety switch, or wire harness.

I have started the Cruiser a few times hitting the solenoid wire to the positive, until I wired in a Cole Hersee relay to the starter to lighten the amp load on the ignition switch.

good luck

 

[UWdave]

when you turn the key to the "on" position does the check engine light come on? If not, it indicates a faulty EFI relay, which is a common problem on the 91-92 fj80

Light comes on. Thanks for the idea.

 

[UWdave]

Eureka! We have a breakthrough!

So tonight, I hot wire the starter solenoid and she turned right over. Great, not a starter problem.

Plug the solenoid back in, tried starting again, and she turned right over.

So I figure the solenoid plug got dirty while I was out playing in the mud. I sprayed it with some electronic cleaner and let her dry good and long.

Drove her around all night running errands and no troubles.

 

[CA FF]

Any problems since your fix? I am having what seems to be the same issue. Will have to get in there and try out your solution.

 

[UWdave]

Any problems since your fix? I am having what seems to be the same issue. Will have to get in there and try out your solution.

Started fine ever since the clean out. Even played in the mud some more. My contacts probably weren't bad.

I might try to spray it with some conductive grease if I ever get around to it.

 

[1996LandCruiser]

I have had zero problems since my starter rebuild. It was an easy and inexpensive fix. The original problem was that my starter was not turning, mostly during rainy days. All I got was a 'click'. It's been 2 monts since the fix and everything seems 100%.

jt