Starter sticking issues (1 Viewer)

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when I try to start my 40 the starter sticks at times and I can't stop it unless I turn the key on and off a few times, so I got a brand new starter and an ignition switch and it still does it now and then. I've checked several grounds and they seemed to be fine. I've replaced almost everything I can think of, any ideas? I have a D.U.I. distributer on this 78 FJ40.
 
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If the drive gear meshes too tightly with the flywheel, it can keep the gear teeth engaged and can keep the starter motor energized. This is a common problem on older GM engines and is usually solved by installing a thin metal shim between the starter and the block (or bellhousing on some setups) in order to get a little more freeplay between the starter and flywheel gears.
The only other cause that you haven't covered would be an actual short in the wire going to the S terminal on the solenoid ( a short to some source of 12 volts), but that seems unlikely to be the case and I doubt it would clear up with you turning the key off and on.
 
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If the drive gear meshes too tightly with the flywheel, it can keep the gear teeth engaged and can keep the starter motor energized. This is a common problem on older GM engines and is usually solved by installing a thin metal shim between the starter and the block (or bellhousing on some setups) in order to get a little more freeplay between the starter and flywheel gears.
The only other cause that you haven't covered would be an actual short in the wire going to the S terminal on the solenoid ( a short to some source of 12 volts), but that seems unlikely to be the case and I doubt it would clear up with you turning the key off and on.
Hmm, I'm wondering if your onto something. The green wire ,the top one on the solenoid, not the one that goes to the starter, isn't hooked up to anything ever since I put in the D.U.I. , should it be plugged into something? Thanks.
 

bj40green

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.... so I got a brand new starter and an ignition switch and it still does it now and then.

Worn out ignition cylinder....

Are these still available from Toyota?

In your first posting you said that you replaced the ignition switch.
Clutchee points at the cylinder but that is the part where the key goes in and turns the ignition switch.
You also said: ....I can't stop it unless I turn the key on and off a few times.....
So it's not an electrical problem. If it was, the starter would come free at the first time you switched it off.

Next time it happens, hit the starter with a piece of wood. If that works it tells you that you have a mechanical problem.

Rudi
 

bj40green

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What I was trying to say is that if you have a damaged tooth on your flywheel it can hold the starter engaged until it comes loose by vibration or when you hit it with a piece of wood.
You can cranck many times when the starter is not locking in with the damaged tooth but if it does than this is your problem.

Rudi
 
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I've only driven it a couple times since posting and it hasn't happened lately but I know it will again. If that's the case as you've pointed, it must have happened since the engine has been rebuilt and that was only 1400 miles ago because I put the flywheel on after it was machined and it looked good. It's frustrating.
 
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Could you tell me where this green wire goes to?
IMG_20140912_225430258.jpg
 
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That is the solenoid wire on mine, it is part of the loom that also hits the oil pressure sending unit. Ps. Mine is a 1980 fj40...
 
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well, the starter stuck again today, I hit it with a piece of wood (broken broom handle) twice and it still kept trying to turn over. The only way I got it to stop was turning the key all the way forward to the start position a couple of times. I'm not sure what to do now. Shim?
 
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Loveland Ohio
Well i realize im late to the party but i had this same issue and after much internet searching i found nothing on this issue.
I have a gm regular style starter with the solenoid mounted on it. When i would go to start the engine the starter wouldnt stop cranking. I removed the starter and benched it with jumper cables and saw that the pinion or "bendix"(think thats what some people call it) would not retract when the "s" terminal had the + power removed.
Flywheel fitment and misalignment was not the cause.
This is before..
1966041

Heres how i fixed it...
Upon removing the solenoid and taking off the plastic cover on the wired end, i saw the start wire lead had a large solder blob that was making contact with the main high amp circular connector (see pics). The fix was simply to insulate the start wire lead and put it back together. Works perfectly now. 20 minutes, some hest shrink and poof, problem solved. Good luck and hope this helps folks in the future.
After...
1966042
 

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