Source for ignition switched power under the hood?

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I'm sure it has been covered over and over again, but my search skills are failing me.

I installed a cheap auxbeam switch setup and mounted the box where the abs pump used to sit. I need an ignition switched 12v to trigger it on.

Are there fuses in the engine bay fuse box that I can put an add-a-fuse on?

Using a multimeter to measure voltage, the charge fuse seems to be the only one that doesn't have voltage when the car is off and charge when the car is on.

Is there any risk to putting an add a fuse on the charge fuse?

Would you recommend a different option?

It is a 1994 land cruiser, in case that matters.

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PS. I should have used a switchpros like I did in my other builds. The auxbeam is inferior in so many ways. Live and learn.
 
I don't know. Sounds very handy. Could you share a picture so I can look around to see if I have one?

Googled it up: 82610-60060
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Looks like I don't have one of those, but I'd sure like one!
 
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Looks like it isn't in the US EPC:
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@CharlieS Why didn't you use the ABS circuit, if you removed the ABS?
 
I don't know. Sounds very handy. Could you share a picture so I can look around to see if I have one?

Googled it up: 82610-60060
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Looks like I don't have one of those, but I'd sure like one!
Interesting, I asked a similar question about 16 years ago ( the old girl is still going strong) 😎

 
@CharlieS Why didn't you use the ABS circuit, if you removed the ABS?

Great idea.

I would prefer to use the ABS circuit or something like it, if it is ignition switched power. I'd prefer to use that instead of the Charge fuse.

Is this spot where the 60A ABS fuse used to be the place I should test? I'll go test it with my multimeter after work today.

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If your automatic super jazzy electric radio mast/antenna is jacked like mine is then you can pop the connector open (passenger fender well just below your antenna body) and tap into it there also. That is what I used for my keyed power on my auxbeam switch panel.
 
Reviving this thread since I believe I found a rather inexpensive solution to this problem by trying to achieve something else.

One of my ideas was to mount a Blue Sea fuse panel which has a switched power side as well as a non switched power side on the same panel (split bus).

This one in particular

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I ended up with a non split bus version since I did not think of it earlier.

An inexpensive Ford starter solenoid could provide the switched power source you need.


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Power cable from the battery to the solenoid on one side and another one from the solenoid to the fuse block.

The S terminal can get the "switched" signal/voltage from the fuse box behind the main battery using a piggyback fused wire.

One of these:


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From one of the fuses inside this panel:

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Here is a video on how the solenoid works and how the wiring should be done.

It is a bit long but for those with not a lot of electrical and wiring experience might be helpful.


 
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