Sound deadening

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Joined
Mar 31, 2026
Threads
1
Messages
4
Location
New Jersey
Took me a couples of weeks to really go in on all the spots. Took the sun roof as well (rails were giving me issues) I decided to go with the Amazon sound deadening haven’t put it on the road yet, still have the doors to go and other minor tweaks to do. Wanted to hear some feedback just in case I’m missing anything.


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I don't have much to add besides if you haven't seen this video, you should. It does a good job of explaining the process to me. I seem to remember the closed cell foam making a big difference.

 
Looks good and the Amazon product gets good ratings. I would suggest putting some in the rear part of the roof area and the rear quarter panels as well. You do not need full coverage but if you do it will not hurt anything.

Only other things I would add would be some thermal protection around the front area.
 
Looks good and the Amazon product gets good ratings. I would suggest putting some in the rear part of the roof area and the rear quarter panels as well. You do not need full coverage but if you do it will not hurt anything.

Only other things I would add would be some thermal protection around the front area.

I really appreciate it! Definitely going to start tackling all those little spots. Luckily I had to take off the sun roof to fix up a leak and was able to get under that area.

I’m still planning on adding a thermal layer. I ended up going with another product I saw on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CYNRQWFJ?tag=ihco-20. When trying to look for any info online on how thick it should be I read 157 Mil is a nice sweet spot to be at. Not sure if that true or not
 
I don't have much to add besides if you haven't seen this video, you should. It does a good job of explaining the process to me. I seem to remember the closed cell foam making a big difference.



Thanks I’ll make sure to check it out! I definitely will be adding a closed cell foam. Found one that’s 157 Mil hopefully it’ll drown all that road noise out
 
I really appreciate it! Definitely going to start tackling all those little spots. Luckily I had to take off the sun roof to fix up a leak and was able to get under that area.

I’m still planning on adding a thermal layer. I ended up going with another product I saw on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CYNRQWFJ?tag=ihco-20. When trying to look for any info online on how thick it should be I read 157 Mil is a nice sweet spot to be at. Not sure if that true or not

The 4mm foam will help with heat and sound. It's not a complete solution, depending on how crazy you want to get with it.

I used similar stuff, but it was 6mm with foil on the top surface.

4mm is kinda thin, and it will pack down in places where it has weight on it ( like under you heels).
But, go too thick and you start having issues re-fitting carpet, console, seats, trim panels etc. 4mm on dynamat should be ok though.

With the foam, you want to do the best you can to cover the whole floor, imcluding as far up the firewall as you can, and the whole trans tunnel.
Fill in any gaps in your cutting, and use foil HVAC tape to cover ALL the seams.

When I did mine, it definitely made a difference, but I had heat pouring through the shifter hole on the trans tunnel (stick shift). When I figured out a way to effectively cover that under the console it made a huge difference. It kinda highlighted how much heat & noise small gaps let through.

If you want to go nuts, also add MLV (mass loaded vinyl).

The dynamat dampens vibrations in the steel panels, closed cell foam absorbs heat and sound, MLV blocks and absorbs vibrations. Ideally, you want a combination of layers to baffle and block the sound vibrations.
 
The dynamat dampens vibrations in the steel panels, closed cell foam absorbs heat and sound, MLV blocks and absorbs vibrations. Ideally, you want a combination of layers to baffle and block the sound vibrations.
Thanks for the simple summary. I haven't started the process but plan to and keep having to go back and relearn what does what. This will help casuals like me remember what I needed.

I think for simplicity, I will start with dynamat in my doors and the panels I can get to since the tin can sound bothers me so much and seems like low hanging fruit. The difference between my GX460 and the 80 is pretty big. The GX feels substantially more solid while the 80 feels like a 90s corolla.
 
Land Cruisers had absolutely nothing to do with luxury until they became mall crawlers. And even then it was not because of the luxury, but due to the upcharge.

If your car (any) does not make you smile every time you drive it or look back at it as you walk away, it is not for you.
Oh I get it now. I didn't buy an 80 for luxury. I bought it to take me places most people can't go and it can definitely do that. That makes me smile.
 
Thanks for the simple summary. I haven't started the process but plan to and keep having to go back and relearn what does what. This will help casuals like me remember what I needed.

I think for simplicity, I will start with dynamat in my doors and the panels I can get to since the tin can sound bothers me so much and seems like low hanging fruit. The difference between my GX460 and the 80 is pretty big. The GX feels substantially more solid while the 80 feels like a 90s corolla.

There's a couple of very informative threads here on sound deadening. If you haven't already found them might be worth a search
 
The 4mm foam will help with heat and sound. It's not a complete solution, depending on how crazy you want to get with it.

I used similar stuff, but it was 6mm with foil on the top surface.

4mm is kinda thin, and it will pack down in places where it has weight on it ( like under you heels).
But, go too thick and you start having issues re-fitting carpet, console, seats, trim panels etc. 4mm on dynamat should be ok though.

With the foam, you want to do the best you can to cover the whole floor, imcluding as far up the firewall as you can, and the whole trans tunnel.
Fill in any gaps in your cutting, and use foil HVAC tape to cover ALL the seams.

When I did mine, it definitely made a difference, but I had heat pouring through the shifter hole on the trans tunnel (stick shift). When I figured out a way to effectively cover that under the console it made a huge difference. It kinda highlighted how much heat & noise small gaps let through.

If you want to go nuts, also add MLV (mass loaded vinyl).

The dynamat dampens vibrations in the steel panels, closed cell foam absorbs heat and sound, MLV blocks and absorbs vibrations. Ideally, you want a combination of layers to baffle and block the sound vibrations.

What’s the best order to do this all in? I already started with the sound deadening material. Also would you be able to provide a link to these things? I’d really like to close this part of my project out for the Land Cruiser and really start focusing on all mechanical stuff. Planning to swap speakers while I’m at it and check all wiring just still tied up with this process lol
 
Toyota might disagree
The world disagrees.

Solid front axles don't inspire luxury.
They did cost a pretty penny due to the amount of over engineering that went in every model until the pink panty 100 to make them durable and dependable.
Otherwise there was nothing luxurious about Land Cruisers.
 
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