SOR sliding fj40 cargo windows?

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Seeing these are going to be sliders and the dimensions aren't symmetrical on each end, doesn't that make these right and left side specific?
They would need to be left and right specific.

If I recall correctly there are slight differences in window opening size varying by year. And there are variations in the size of the opening in the side panel. I know I ran into this problem when I tried to put BJ42 sliders on my 1974 FJ40, and I ended up giving up and selling them off.

Looking a $OR as reference point using side panel glass differences it looks like the following variations: 65-3/69, 3/69-7/71, 7/71-8/76 for the one piece glass. Likely this was based on weather stripping changes (keyed vs one piece).

All that said, if they fit a 10/73 FJ40, I'd be interested.
 
Again. I want a set. Might be restoring the hardtop on my 11/75 build date Forty this winter. Swapping in the sliders would be such a nice mod.

Curious about the clearance issue that was brought up. Was the factory roll bar interfering with the SOR slider from opening all the way or preventing it from opening at all? Has anyone here dealt with this?
We're too savy of a group to let that stop us. I'm sure we could figure out a solution.
 
Not sure if sliding windows ever came OEM on some land cruiser fj40 variant, or if they were still a sole product of specter of road, but there use to be a clear sliding window variant. The later style came tinted. I originally wanted a clear window but had to opt for a tint slide window since the other style was no longer available. I'm pleased with the look overall regardless.

And someone here mentioned wanting the window coming with a built in screen/mesh. That's how mine arrived from SOR and i left them on for a couple of months. I removed them and it improved the utility of the sliding windows 100%. no restricted airflow and i can reach in/out from the back if i need to grab something. Also, dogs love sticking their heads out from the rear windows. I can only see the benefit of having a screen on them is if you go camping somewhere with lots of mosquitos and wish to sleep out in the back of the cruiser with the windows open. Doesn't hurt to have the option just in case though. :)

IMG_20200308_180058.jpg


IMG_20200322_161516.jpg
 
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Do you need the template or the image good enough? I can get a closer picture if needed.
Guys, here's his response...

Mark,

Thank you for the drawing. It unfortunately illustrates what I was afraid of. We can produce corner radii on our window frames of either 2.5” or 3”. We also do not offer a combination of those two on the same frame, so it is either all 2.5” or all 3”. Changing the existing glass to a sliding window would require some hole modification. Since I do not have an exact hole size template or drawing my attachments are my best guess at how much and where you would need to cut your opening to facilitate this change.

The red line on my drawing is my effort to CAD draw the hole opening using the provided dimensions. The black line shows the frame plug in dimension of the frame. I would recommend the Series 1100 as the spec for this job. Before you ask, the flange will not cover the 1-3/4” flange adequately—you will have to increase the hole opening size at least 3/16” all around.

Please give me a call if you would like to discuss or send me an email with any additional questions you may have.


The 2 PDFs he sent are attached.

Thoughts?
Maybe we trace the opening on a firm surface and send over? Also, does anyone have a rear hatch opening that can be traced? I'm thinking it should have 4 consistent corner measurements.
 

Attachments

Not sure if sliding windows ever came OEM on some land cruiser fj40 variant, or if they were still a sole product of specter of road,


Toyota had sliding windows in the hard tops. They were never offered in the US because when they started a roll bar was required in the US. Factory sidling window handles would not clear the roll bar. 8/76 Started started the small vent window in the US. Those at least allow air circulation in the back.
 
Guys, here's his response...

Mark,

Thank you for the drawing. It unfortunately illustrates what I was afraid of. We can produce corner radii on our window frames of either 2.5” or 3”. We also do not offer a combination of those two on the same frame, so it is either all 2.5” or all 3”. Changing the existing glass to a sliding window would require some hole modification. Since I do not have an exact hole size template or drawing my attachments are my best guess at how much and where you would need to cut your opening to facilitate this change.

The red line on my drawing is my effort to CAD draw the hole opening using the provided dimensions. The black line shows the frame plug in dimension of the frame. I would recommend the Series 1100 as the spec for this job. Before you ask, the flange will not cover the 1-3/4” flange adequately—you will have to increase the hole opening size at least 3/16” all around.

Please give me a call if you would like to discuss or send me an email with any additional questions you may have.


The 2 PDFs he sent are attached.

Thoughts?
Maybe we trace the opening on a firm surface and send over? Also, does anyone have a rear hatch opening that can be traced? I'm thinking it should have 4 consistent corner measurements.
Maybe post a want ad for a loaner 40 top (or side piece, can be in rough shape as long as the opening is good) close to this guy. It seems like this would go a lot better if he had one in hand.
 
Guys, here's his response...

Mark,

Thank you for the drawing. It unfortunately illustrates what I was afraid of. We can produce corner radii on our window frames of either 2.5” or 3”. We also do not offer a combination of those two on the same frame, so it is either all 2.5” or all 3”. Changing the existing glass to a sliding window would require some hole modification. Since I do not have an exact hole size template or drawing my attachments are my best guess at how much and where you would need to cut your opening to facilitate this change.

The red line on my drawing is my effort to CAD draw the hole opening using the provided dimensions. The black line shows the frame plug in dimension of the frame. I would recommend the Series 1100 as the spec for this job. Before you ask, the flange will not cover the 1-3/4” flange adequately—you will have to increase the hole opening size at least 3/16” all around.

Please give me a call if you would like to discuss or send me an email with any additional questions you may have.


The 2 PDFs he sent are attached.

Thoughts?
Maybe we trace the opening on a firm surface and send over? Also, does anyone have a rear hatch opening that can be traced? I'm thinking it should have 4 consistent corner measurements.

Maybe post a want ad for a loaner 40 top (or side piece, can be in rough shape as long as the opening is good) close to this guy. It seems like this would go a lot better if he had one in hand.

He can't make them. His drawings are suggestions to modify the opening in the hardtop sides for his windows to work. It also appears he doesn't know our window openings have a recessed flange, as he suggests to just cut the opening larger. Too bad.
 
He can't make them. His drawings are suggestions to modify the opening in the hardtop sides for his windows to work. It also appears he doesn't know our window openings have a recessed flange, as he suggests to just cut the opening larger. Too bad.
I don’t think it will be worth it to most/any of us to modify the window opening to fit the sliding windows. I’ve called 3 other rv/boat window vendors in the last week and it seems 2.5” and 3” radius is the standard.
If a source could be found for the aluminum extrusion used for the frame, there’s ways to form it to any radius. Depending on the alloy used it could be brake/die formed or use a hot joggle press. I think the glass and seal is the easy part. The willingness for someone to make this will depend on the firm demand.

I don’t know anything about 3D printing but is something that size an option? The cross view is going to look like a trident if that makes sense.
 
With enough time and money anything is possible.
 
Here are some pics of the windows I bought from SOR several years ago. These are placed on my 1971.

I don't have exact dimensions, but I believe the 1970/1973 side window openings are the same. The only real difference, that I'm aware of, is the OEM rubber gasket used by Toyota on those specicifc years. A true 1973 side window gasket sits flush with the body, making a seamless appearance. the earlier year gasket leaves a little "step" and some of the body is exposed. You can see that "step" around the window sill once installed.

IMG_20260513_140700.webp


IMG_20260513_140635.webp
 
Here are some pics of the windows I bought from SOR several years ago. These are placed on my 1971.

I don't have exact dimensions, but I believe the 1970/1973 side window openings are the same. The only real difference, that I'm aware of, is the OEM rubber gasket used by Toyota on those specicifc years. A true 1973 side window gasket sits flush with the body, making a seamless appearance. the earlier year gasket leaves a little "step" and some of the body is exposed. You can see that "step" around the window sill once installed.

View attachment 4140018

View attachment 4140015
Thanks for info do you think a 1973 gasket would fit in early 1970
 
Yes, 1973 gasket should fit on earlier windows. I'm not certain if they're out of production though. The specific 1973 gasket.

Either way, if your putting in those SOR sliding windows, they don't take the weatherstrip gaskets like orginal Toyota windows do. I can't remember, but these windows were just plug and play. They might have taken a flat, foam-type of material that got sandwiched in between the window and the window opening, but it's been so long. I don't recall what came inside the box with the windows new from SOR.

If you still have you're original windows and gaskets in place, you're gonna have to remove them. The gasket material might be brittle in spots and crumble. I know mine did. I tried saving them but the gasket material was just too old and dry.


Edit: going back to post #1 on this thread, the screenshot from SOR website says it came with weather strip. Most likely it was just 1 inch wide generic foam strip that has a adhesive side. You can buy it at any hardware store. For about $20-$30.
 
Ok thanks I am going call city racer who sell the gasket for later years see what they say
Edit: going back to post #1 on this thread, the screenshot from SOR website says it came with weather strip. Most likely it was just 1 inch wide generic foam strip that has a adhesive side. You can buy it at any hardware store. For about $20-$30.

And yes, city racer does have sliding window gaskets. Curious to know if they have a better fit. You can always email him and tell him you have SOR sliding windows to make sure theyre compatible
 
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