ranma21
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Anyone experience this and remedy? Thanks in advance.
SOLVED Help with AHC stuck in low position (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ranma21
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Anyone experience this and remedy? Thanks in advance.
Oh boy. Did you proceed on to an ahc level procedure?
If the pump isn’t running suspect a fuse?
Do you have Techstream or access to a manual?
Do you have Techstream or access to a manual?
I had the C1763 code when I bled the system and removed a little too much fluid from one corner. Use the active test part of Techstream to raise the vehicle back up to the neutral position and that fixed it for me. Looks like you also have a bad height sensor though.
. It probably a bad height sensor in the pass before I bought it. Currently it is good, that was the stored history data in the system.
ranma21
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- Thread starter
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So it turns out to be an easy fix. Hooked up Techstream again last evening after work. Navigate to AHC screen and simply clear the code. And I can hear the pump working right away. Thanks to PADDO suggestion, it is all good now. After 2.5 Liter AHC fluid replacement, ride smoother. Used fluid is way overdue!
The engine won't turn over and I'm getting the "Check 4-Wheel AHC System" with the indicator in Lo (2013 LX 570). I was looking forward to writing my first post on ih8mud with photos for removing the 3rd row seats. As soon as I did though is when a series of weird issues started immediately. Just ordered the TechStream cable, fingers crossed.
Hmm. You’ve checked the basics? In park battery connected foot on brake etc?
Can you expand what you mean by the engine won't turn over?
I suspect that "check 4-wheel AHC System" is not really the primary fault and something else is going on.
Is your battery in good shape? Did you work on the vehicle too long with the lighting and such and that it has drained the batts?
This sequence of events is long and not sure this step by step list will help explain but here it goes anyway. Numerous issues so not sure if they are causal or a result of some umbrella of system failure. No noticeable issues prior...
Objective: remove rear seats
Ignition off, in park, battery connected. Power seats have a safety latch behind the rear window so I had to stop the bracket from latching in upright position which triggered a warning light on seat switch. Removed one seat then closed rear door.
After dinner tried to open rear door but power door wouldn't activate. Lifted manually and then the power door motor started clicking repeatedly. Tried to stop motor by clicking remote, door button, and button in next to steering column. None of them stopped it so I closed the hatch manually and pressed "Start/stop button" to hopefully initiate something that would stop the rear door motor.
Engine wouldn't start but a rattling started under the hood. At this time I didn't notice a MIL. It was the canister marked nitrogen (break booster accumulator?) vibrating. I tried ignition again, failed, panicked and disconnected battery. Silly of me to think pumping break harder would start the engine but that's probably what triggered booster to start vibrating. I a read a post here about pumping break 20x and it flushed like its supposed to, no more rattling.
Upon connecting battery back up and trying to start then I noticed the MIL "Check 4 wheel AHC system". It was parked in Lo using Park Assist. Multiple times testing disconnecting battery to reset and removing AHC fuse but won't turn over. Battery is ok with power seats, lights, and rear power door all operating fully.
I tried a work around for starting in emergencies where you click Start/Stop Button to enter accessories mode, put in park, with parking brake, press break pedal, and hold Start/Stop button for 15 seconds. Sounds like starter clicking away but no ignition. The engine doesn't move and no sound so I guess spark and/or fuel aren't combining. Worried I'd burn out the starter. So that's where I'm at now, I appreciate anyone's 2 cents
Objective: remove rear seats
Ignition off, in park, battery connected. Power seats have a safety latch behind the rear window so I had to stop the bracket from latching in upright position which triggered a warning light on seat switch. Removed one seat then closed rear door.
After dinner tried to open rear door but power door wouldn't activate. Lifted manually and then the power door motor started clicking repeatedly. Tried to stop motor by clicking remote, door button, and button in next to steering column. None of them stopped it so I closed the hatch manually and pressed "Start/stop button" to hopefully initiate something that would stop the rear door motor.
Engine wouldn't start but a rattling started under the hood. At this time I didn't notice a MIL. It was the canister marked nitrogen (break booster accumulator?) vibrating. I tried ignition again, failed, panicked and disconnected battery. Silly of me to think pumping break harder would start the engine but that's probably what triggered booster to start vibrating. I a read a post here about pumping break 20x and it flushed like its supposed to, no more rattling.
Upon connecting battery back up and trying to start then I noticed the MIL "Check 4 wheel AHC system". It was parked in Lo using Park Assist. Multiple times testing disconnecting battery to reset and removing AHC fuse but won't turn over. Battery is ok with power seats, lights, and rear power door all operating fully.
I tried a work around for starting in emergencies where you click Start/Stop Button to enter accessories mode, put in park, with parking brake, press break pedal, and hold Start/Stop button for 15 seconds. Sounds like starter clicking away but no ignition. The engine doesn't move and no sound so I guess spark and/or fuel aren't combining. Worried I'd burn out the starter. So that's where I'm at now, I appreciate anyone's 2 cents
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To me, all your symptoms including the clicking and errors suggest a battery that is drained. I'm 90% sure that's your problem.
Enough power for lights and power seats etc to work. But too low of voltage and not enough current support for bigger systems and motors to work. These cars have a lot of electrical systems that lean heavily on batts.
Get a charger or lithium jump starter to get things going again. It may be coincidence that it's also time to replace the battery. Original from 2013? 6 years is about what's typical for battery life.
Enough power for lights and power seats etc to work. But too low of voltage and not enough current support for bigger systems and motors to work. These cars have a lot of electrical systems that lean heavily on batts.
Get a charger or lithium jump starter to get things going again. It may be coincidence that it's also time to replace the battery. Original from 2013? 6 years is about what's typical for battery life.
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Could be time for a new battery, oh please I hope that's all it is. I'll try a charger tomorrow
Second Tek’s Suggestion. I had a dying battery and got an AHC warning right away.
Thank you Teck for your advice. Probably original battery from 2013 and I think the truck wasn't driven very regularly with only 47km. tbisaacs strange how the MIL warning for AHC comes on, would have saved me a lot of worry with a low battery warning. The good thing is I learned alot about AHC system and made a list of items to check on the LX 570 in general
Im having your exact problem. Got in my car, every symptom you mentioned happened to me. Did your battery change fix work?
Yes, a new battery fixed the problem immediately. Original battery was 6 years old and I'm very happy to have a fully charged power supply for the hundred motors and automated gadgets. The Energizer 24F AGM battery was a good price and if I install a winch and fridge then a larger battery would be nice
For future, I'm considering options like the Slee battery tray, second battery tray is engineered for the 2008-Current Land Cruiser / LX570 to accommodate a Group 35 battery
For future, I'm considering options like the Slee battery tray, second battery tray is engineered for the 2008-Current Land Cruiser / LX570 to accommodate a Group 35 battery
If I went out into the wilderness often I wouldn't hesitate to get a second battery. I just jumped my car with a NOCA jumper and now its running fine. But I noticed there was a little white powder coming out of the terminal. Does that mean its time for a new battery? I have no idea how old the current battery is because I only bought the LX 5 months ago.
Any idea which batteries would be good for alot of cycles? I have a dashcam that sucks power out of the battery (to a point) while its off.
Any idea which batteries would be good for alot of cycles? I have a dashcam that sucks power out of the battery (to a point) while its off.
my decision was based more on cold cranking amps, Odyssey is a popular brand. Optimas is a top brand. The tray accomodates a larger 27F battery
