[SOLVED] Cruiser wouldn’t start

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Joined
Jul 23, 2023
Threads
22
Messages
75
Location
Vacaville ca
Last night my family and I went out for a drive and then got dinner. We were there for about an hour. When we went to leave, the car wouldn’t start.

The engine was cranking and still warm. Headlights, brake lights, dome light, and radio all worked. The CEL would light up while cranking. I left the key in the ON position for a little bit, and after that it finally started. When it did start, the CEL stayed on but there were no codes.

I drove about 25 yards to a stop sign and the engine died. I restarted it, the CEL disappeared, and it ran fine after that. When we got home, I waited an hour and tried to see if the issue would repeat, but everything worked normally.

For reference, about two years ago I replaced the IAC, TPS, MAF, o2 sensors and starter, and repaired the harness on the egr
 
year?
 
I’d start with the fusible link then check the battery cables they are easy to fix and can cause the issues you have.
Welp it ended up being my oil pump leaking on to my crank shaft position sensor. Been dealing with the oil leak for a little too long now I guess. Anyway the main symptom is not having an rpm reading when trying to start.
 
Thanks for the follow-up, and: How the heck did you diagnose that??
A family friend who is great with electrical, came over to help. We couldn’t reproduce the issue though, but he remembered his father having similar issues on his Cherokee. Before I even checked it he said there might be some oil in your connections. Went under to check and there was oil in it.
Cleaned it with some electrical cleaner, worked for a couple drives and came back. He told me next time to watch my RPMs. If I have none while trying to start, that would confirm it.
 
Mine was soaked from oil and I did not have that issue. From what you explained I first thought you had a fuel pump going out. Letting the key stay in the on position and then cranking wouldn't have cleaned out the oil when you got it to start. I don't know that I would completely consider it solved just yet. But I hope it is.
 
Mine was soaked from oil and I did not have that issue. From what you explained I first thought you had a fuel pump going out. Letting the key stay in the on position and then cranking wouldn't have cleaned out the oil when you got it to start. I don't know that I would completely consider it solved just yet. But I hope it is.
True, I have to get in there and fix it up. Was your oil in the connection it’s self? Mine had oil dripping out when I disconnected it. After I cleaned it, it seem to work for a couple of drives… also not showing any rpms when trying to start and also some times a stutter and not starting.
 
Completely soaked and common for them to be soaked when the the oil filter is so close. You might have a broken wire or short on it some place. I once shorted mine when I replaced engine mounts and it ran awful. But it did run even without the tach.

I don't think oil is your issue I would bet you have a wire integrity issue as most of my connectors were oil soaked when I got it as the thing leaked like crazy.
 
Yeah I’ll do some more searching while I do the oil pump seal. I’m going to try to drive and recreate the issue while at home, so I can try the start fluid trick… correct me if i am wrong but if your tach isn’t work it will still run. The issue isn’t the tach it’s that the sensor isn’t reading rpm to relay to the ecu to start.
 
Completely soaked and common for them to be soaked when the the oil filter is so close. You might have a broken wire or short on it some place. I once shorted mine when I replaced engine mounts and it ran awful. But it did run even without the tach.

I don't think oil is your issue I would bet you have a wire integrity issue as most of my connectors were oil soaked when I got it as the thing leaked like crazy.
Welp after trying the starter fluid the cruiser will start up for a second then shut off. I concluded it’s most likely the fuel system. Wasn’t hearing anything from the pump when starting or anything. Checked the relay and it seemed fine, so I replaced the pump. She started right up and felt great and sounded great… I let it run to reset the ecm and she started blowing smoke coming from the exhaust. Shut it off and had a p0340 (Camshaft position sensor A circuit fault) cleared code started it back up and was fine. Did another ecm reset. Everything was great. Drove it to the store and it died as I got to the parking spot. Now showing P0335 (camshaft position sensor failure).

So I waited 2 hours for a tow truck but was able to start her and get home. So I will replace that tomorrow.
 
Thank you for posting back on this, as it will eventually help someone in need. Let us know how it works out after the cam position sensor replacement.
Well I came back to say it ended up being the dizzy. When hitting operating temp the NE and G- resistances was 0. Replaced it and she runs better than ever!
 
Well I came back to say it ended up being the dizzy. When hitting operating temp the NE and G- resistances was 0. Replaced it and she runs better than ever!
Mark the title of this thread as SOLVED please. It will help others in this situation.

Glad you were able to figure it out. Which dizzy did you go with? OEM or aftermarket?
 
Mark the title of this thread as SOLVED please. It will help others in this situation.

Glad you were able to figure it out. Which dizzy did you go with? OEM or aftermarket?
will do.

I originally went with a aftermarket oeg dizzy on Amazon, but was unable to adjust timing. I was either maxed out on the slide at 0° or 9° the next gear over. It did allow me to confirm it was the issue.
I ended up getting in contact with FJ80oregon on here, he sells oem parts, highly recommend him. Swapped it and returned the oeg.
 
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