So I want an FJ 40 but...

Discussion in 'HardCore Corner' started by metalshaper, Jul 19, 2016.

  1. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    ***Disclaimer***

    If you're a FJ 40 purest DON'T READ BELOW!!

    ***END DISCLAIMER***

    So I have really fallen in love with these FJ 40's and I have grown to love the shape, well almost. I've always been a Jeep guy more so than a Toyota guy. The more I look at pictures the more I wanted one. The problem was they were either in really bad shape and wanted top dollar or they were in really great shape and wanted top dollar, a kidney, left testicle, a lung and while they were at it the other kidney. Honestly for what I wanted to do with it neither of these options worked for me. Well, they could have worked but what fun would that have been. So I happen to have a friend that bought an FJ 40 that I could pull some measurements from. After spending a little time measuring and researching, boy that thing was JACKED UP. It was a real struggle trying to pull anything constant from this FJ. However for what I was doing, it will work.


    The goal for this rig is to make it a 4 seater so me and the guys in the shop can go camping and relax on the weekend. I want it to me a tube chassis, 60/14 bolt, LS with Atlas (if any venders want to donate an atlas I will not say no [​IMG])

    I have gathered most of my parts other than the hydro steering, atlas and King Shocks. I bought some a while back but they were damaged in shipping but I got the springs.

    So the first step was to order some cold rolled sheet metal. I ordered some 16 and 18 ga sheet metal, about 10 sheets each. Then I went to the computer and try to draw the basic shapes. With my rough measurements I can cut some blanks to get started with.
     
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  2. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    So my thought was I would start with the smaller pieces. I started with the inner fenders on the back. Mainly the upper edge support rail.

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  3. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    So now I needed to make a die for my Pullmax so I can make the same shape as the FJ40 upper body edge. I think it turned out pretty good.

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  4. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    There is always a two step process on making a panel. The next part of this equation is to make a guide so I can run that die over edge of the panel. But first I have to make a wooden guide so I can follow without making mistakes in the panel. Here are some of the guides I've made for this project.

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  5. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    Now I can ride the edge and get a good edge finish. As you may be able to see, I'm making the rear a comp-cut section.

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  6. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    I guess I should have put this concept drawing up first. The door sides are cut long so that I can cut to height. When running the metal through the dies it had a tendency to curl the edges.

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  7. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    So I'll make another small piece, the front cowl section I cut. As you see I have the slot for the louvers. Well, crap I don't have a louver punch... Let's make one.

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  8. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    Basically I wanted a louver tool that I could cut any length louver. I'll just post the pictures. I take a chuck of steel and face the pieces and then put on the index table and machine the shape into the edge with a ball end mill.

    Please understand though, I am no machinist. I know enough to get myself in trouble.

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  9. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    So, fast forward...

    Typically you make a few passes first cutting the metal then pressing the shape in with the tool. I used a short cut by cutting the 1/16" slit on the CNC.

    Overall I think it turned out great. I'll need to practice a little bit but I got this.

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  10. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    Cut the other side and let's form it and the louvers. I'm really liking that. I think that will work just right.

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  11. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    Yep, I like it. I can cut any length louver I want now. Now that I know how to make the tool, I can make different shape louvers and even curved louvers.

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  12. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    Here is basically the "rear" comp cut sections. So I made another hammer form so I can fold the lip on the fender down and it served another purpose to be a guide for the edge die. In one of these pictures you can see the MDF under the sheet metal. I was in the process of removing it.

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  13. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    I meant to take a picture of the rear blank but I guess I didn't. So I'll treat you with a picture after I spot welded it together.

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  14. GW Nugget

    GW Nugget There's nothing funnier thn dyslexic perfectionist

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    A scratch built 4 door 40.
    This is going to be better than reality TV.
     
  15. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    If you notice the rear part of the fender doesn't have that formed upper edge. The body I was using basically didn't have an edge to work with so I had to do some research and find what it actually looked like. I'll finish that part by hand.

    Which brings me to the next part of this. The support that's on the inside of the body for the top to rest on. Again, it was so rusted I had to search. This is what I came up with. The bends are so tight I just made it from two pieces. It was easier and caused me less stress. I'm getting old and my heart can't take it. [​IMG]


    As you can see if fits the fender nicely.

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  16. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    I guess I should go ahead and make the bed. Let's make the wood guide first, then die, then work some magic.

    in the earlier pictures I posted a picture of the wood guide but I'll post it again.

    This is what it helped me accomplish.

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  17. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    Now for the exciting part. This was the hardest part to figure out. Actually, not really, it just took time to figure out. In my sketch of the 4 door you may have noticed that the door posts go higher than they should. That is because when I'm getting to the end of the material it has a tendicy to curl. So I run it long and cut to size. Let's see how this works.

    Step one: make wood guide
    Step two: realize the door bead is different from the bed bead
    Step three: make door die

    You can see me and Brady working that door magic. This is the front door opening

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  18. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    Here is a picture after we ran the rear door opening through. Turned out really well. Keep in mind the lip is long so it can be folded over the other side.

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  19. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    I forgot to add the picture of the blank. This is what the door opening started with.

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  20. metalshaper

    metalshaper

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    I had to make another die so I could make the back side of the door opening. In these pictures you can see it all spot welded together. The first picture is the back side of the door openings.

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