So I did something stupid...HELP!
- Thread starter RedEuro
- Start date
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The problem will no longer be intermittent once it heats up.
yeah, I've noticed... On the few warm days since I've had it, the front DS door won't alway's lock. If I jack up the door and my wife has to do a Dukes-of-Hazzard to get in, she's gonna be pissed...
check functions with door closed before you put the door panel back on
RedEuro...were you accessing the child lock from the interior or the exterior? I've got the exact same situation going on here...your solution is giving me a little hope though!
Glad someone else did this before me.....Im about to change out an actuator as well.
Another victory for Mud!
So here I am, six years later with the exact same issue. Of course I thoroughly read the DIY Door Actuator thread to make sure I had every detail accounted for before diving into this. Spent 3-4 hours changing out all of the actuators, go to shut the first rear door and *BOOM* — immediately realize I forgot to attached the door handle rod (yellow clip). Stupid. But hey, it's just one door, right?
So I'm extra careful and thorough as I do the second rear door (passenger), double check everything, close it and *BOOM* it won't open and the lock won't engage. So here I am with one door with exterior handle disconnected (child lock on I presume?) and the other with the tiny wire that connects the lock actuator disconnected and permanently locked. FML.
Question 1: Does anyone have any details or info on the "coat hanger" trick to get the child lock? Location suggestions on where I should be prodding
Question 2: Anyone have success removing a door panel with the door closed? Any tips would be helpful since I've tried doing the simple approach of leveraging a crow bar on the door frame and trying to lift the top edge off.
After mulling over this with constant web/forum searches for the past 2-3 days, I'm at the point where I'm prepared to saw off the door panels to get at the innards and then fork over the $350/door panel to replace. A cost-saving DIY turned into a $700 mistake
Any help is much appreciated!
So I'm extra careful and thorough as I do the second rear door (passenger), double check everything, close it and *BOOM* it won't open and the lock won't engage. So here I am with one door with exterior handle disconnected (child lock on I presume?) and the other with the tiny wire that connects the lock actuator disconnected and permanently locked. FML.
Question 1: Does anyone have any details or info on the "coat hanger" trick to get the child lock? Location suggestions on where I should be prodding
Question 2: Anyone have success removing a door panel with the door closed? Any tips would be helpful since I've tried doing the simple approach of leveraging a crow bar on the door frame and trying to lift the top edge off.
After mulling over this with constant web/forum searches for the past 2-3 days, I'm at the point where I'm prepared to saw off the door panels to get at the innards and then fork over the $350/door panel to replace. A cost-saving DIY turned into a $700 mistake
Any help is much appreciated!
Did you pull the door handle screw and the power window switch to see how much room you have to access the inside? I did it once on a Lexus but I had the panel off.
That was my first instinct was to remove anything holding the door to the frame (i.e. remove all bezels and the large screw that holds the panel behind the window switch) and then tried to worm my hand back in there, as well as trying to pry off the door panel. Needless to say, it was to no avail. I might have to bribe my girlfriend to stick her tiny arms back there but I fear even she may not be able to make it all the way back (or have a clue what she's reaching for).
Maybe I'll give it another shot with a new sense of patience and determination
Any other thoughts or experiences from others that have been here?
So here I am, six years later with the exact same issue. Of course I thoroughly read the DIY Door Actuator thread to make sure I had every detail accounted for before diving into this. Spent 3-4 hours changing out all of the actuators, go to shut the first rear door and *BOOM* — immediately realize I forgot to attached the door handle rod (yellow clip). Stupid. But hey, it's just one door, right?
So I'm extra careful and thorough as I do the second rear door (passenger), double check everything, close it and *BOOM* it won't open and the lock won't engage. So here I am with one door with exterior handle disconnected (child lock on I presume?) and the other with the tiny wire that connects the lock actuator disconnected and permanently locked. FML.
Question 1: Does anyone have any details or info on the "coat hanger" trick to get the child lock? Location suggestions on where I should be prodding
Question 2: Anyone have success removing a door panel with the door closed? Any tips would be helpful since I've tried doing the simple approach of leveraging a crow bar on the door frame and trying to lift the top edge off.
After mulling over this with constant web/forum searches for the past 2-3 days, I'm at the point where I'm prepared to saw off the door panels to get at the innards and then fork over the $350/door panel to replace. A cost-saving DIY turned into a $700 mistake
Any help is much appreciated!
I see I did the same thing, Would you be kind enough to let me know howr got it opened? Here is my thread. BTW I do have the door panel off. I think I may have popped a spring to the child lock in the accuator???
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99 100 series TLC. Long story. I was replacing accuators and during the rear passenger reinstall of the accuator something happened. The levers worked for the pull handle and lock cables. So I put it back in. I must have messed something up like a spring etc inside the accuator because afterward the door will not open.
I've jiggled the levers etc and no luck. I cant get in the panel or lock to pry open or trigger it. I attempted taking the front bolts of the door off to see if I could get some movement, no luck. Wife & I pushed and pulled levers while I gave it some gentle kicks, nada. There is zero crease to get in between door and back panel.
I don't want to necessarily yank out the accuator to see if I can get deeper in there but I am at a loss. And yes I have toggled the child safety trigger but maybe that is what is broken inside.
Locksmith said to take to body shop but thought I'd ask here first. Thanks in advance.
I know this is years ago, you mentioned you have the tool but I couldn't see what it was.
I hope you can answer to what you did. Here is my thread.
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99 100 series TLC. Long story. I was replacing accuators and during the rear passenger reinstall of the accuator something happened. The levers worked for the pull handle and lock cables. So I put it back in. I must have messed something up like a spring etc inside the accuator because afterward the door will not open.
I've jiggled the levers etc and no luck. I cant get in the panel or lock to pry open or trigger it. I attempted taking the front bolts of the door off to see if I could get some movement, no luck. Wife & I pushed and pulled levers while I gave it some gentle kicks, nada. There is zero crease to get in between door and back panel.
I don't want to necessarily yank out the accuator to see if I can get deeper in there but I am at a loss. And yes I have toggled the child safety trigger but maybe that is what is broken inside.
Locksmith said to take to body shop but thought I'd ask here first. Thanks in advance.
Hey there. It's been a while since I was in there, but I wasn't smart enough to leave the inner door panels off (like you). What I ended up doing was forcibly tearing the door panel from inside the truck, and then I was able to reach in and grab the rod to unlatch the door.
In your case, the outside door handle should actuate the door (if the rod is connected) and if no, you should be able to do this by hand? If it's a matter of the actuator being broken/jammed (which you just replaced the motor in) then shouldn't you be able to manually pull the cables to unlock?
I know how frustrating this is, so I wish I could help more. Perhaps some pictures of what you've tried thus far would help since many of us haven't been inside those doors since we last tackled this almost a year ago. Here to help!
In your case, the outside door handle should actuate the door (if the rod is connected) and if no, you should be able to do this by hand? If it's a matter of the actuator being broken/jammed (which you just replaced the motor in) then shouldn't you be able to manually pull the cables to unlock?
I know how frustrating this is, so I wish I could help more. Perhaps some pictures of what you've tried thus far would help since many of us haven't been inside those doors since we last tackled this almost a year ago. Here to help!
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I'll respond soon with more info. The rod is moving and accessible. While waiting I went in with bailing wire trying to find a lever around the child lock. Has to be child lock or broken inside acc. I just want to yank the whole damn thing out. Talk soon.
If you’re here because you are stupid like me and you have a 120 series. Yes, you can yank the door panel off with the door closed (assuming it is the rear).