Smog failed (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 13, 2013
Threads
6
Messages
15
Hi Guys,

The smog failed (California) with a HC MEAS idle at 102. and some other issues as well as shown in the doc below.

I was told this issue can be fixed by changing the O2 sensors x 2 and the 2 CAT's. I am looking at around $500 for the CAT's and another $300 for the two O2 sensors.

FJ80_SMOG_TEST.jpg

I would really appreciate any input on this.

Thanks..

1994 FJ80 with 190K (California)

FJ80_SMOG_TEST.jpg
 
Looks to me like you didn't go in for the test with a hot engine - after running at highway speed for awhile to get the cats, etc. fully up to temperature.

:cheers:
 
WOW cant it be this simple? You are right I did not drive more than a mile to the SMOG test.
 
The two speed idle test performed on your vehicle includes a Iong warm-up cycle. I would't replace anything unless they do a thorough diagnosis. Shops like to throw parts at things....and just guess.

If you need help with repairs, there is the consumer assistance program. It will help pay for the repairs if you qualify.
 
I don't think its cats and oxygen sensors. right now. HC's are unburnt fuel and oil possibly leaking past the rings. I would change my oil and do a tune up and and smog it again. However Pinhead will know alot more.
 
This same thing happened to me in Costa Rica. I failed and couldn't figure out why. The next time I went with my mechanic and while we were waiting in line idling, he would blip the throttle 0-1,500 several times and then 0-2k until the cat was glowing. Passed with flying colors the second time! Try heating up the cats real good and try it again, I think you'll be surprised.
 
I was having the same problem here in Colorado. I would drive the vehicle for a good half hour at highway speeds to get the cats hot. Then try a retest. Not sure how smog tests are done California but in Colorado if you fail you get to retest for free.

Sent from my MB886 using IH8MUD
 
X6^^^. Getting the engine and exhaust throughly warmed up is important. You did not miss hydrocarbons (HC) by much and I would expect them to go down substantially with a rig at proper temp. Exhaust temp, and the relatively out of whack (for emissions) air-fuel stoich ratio when the engine is still cool, are important to HC oxidation in the cat. I second the suggestion for an oil change and 10+ mile highway warm up just before the re-test.

Please post your results.
 
Run a tank of premium fuel with seafoam through. Then do an oil change and spark plugs. If you want you can do wires cap and rotor but a factory set should be good for 10 years. Factory plugs are good for 30k mi. After you have driven it for about 30 min take it in and don't let them shut it down, keep it running. If this doesn't work you may have to look into your air injection system. You don't have much residual O2 left. O2 sensors don't last forever either, they are a consumable and need to be replaced.

Where at in CA are you? I am up in Fresno and available to help. I have access to a smog machine so we can work on it and watch what the tail pipe numbers look like after a repair.
 
The guys in colorado have had some luck with just adding a quart or two of isopropyl alcohol to a half tank of regular.

Fill the tank up after the test tho.

But I agree that you are close enough that basic tuneup might do it. Or just rolling in with a hot cat.
 
Thanks guy for all your input..

I have done an oil change now. I also did 700 miles this weekend with Lucas Oil Deep Clean Fuel System Cleaner. I was also thinking of changing the plugs before the test. Any recommendations on what plugs to get?

* Oil change - 10W-30 Mobil1 synthetic high milage 75000 mils and up. mixd with LUCAS Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer (Mix of 1Qt. LUCAS with 4Qt. of Mobil1) New filter.

* Fuel System Cleaner - Lucas Oil Deep Clean Fuel System Cleaner

cruiserfj45: Thanks for the offer to help me with this issue but I am from Costa Mesa CA.

Plug Wires, Air Filter, Plugs, Dist Rotor, Dist Cap, Fuel Filter has been replaced at 165,000 miles. Should I consider changing any of this now that it has 190,000 miles (25,000 miles)?
 
Failed Smog

I failed smog in CA on my 1991 that had about 200K miles. It took new cats x2 and O2 x 2 and while-we-are-at-it new plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor. It sailed on through after that.
 
I am under the impression that in the PRK you can't just stick any old cat in there. They may even have to be OEM IIRC. Which are evidently made of solid gold besides the platinum... So, unless you know better -and I may well be wrong with all this- tread carefully if you consider a cat swap.
 
In PRK you need to have specific cats that are approved for use in california. They will have a tag affixed to them. AFAIK

You cannot use the universal cats anymore. However if you have Hansen sliders they won't check.

I would pull the plugs and check their condition and just check gap and wire brush them. If it were me I would just replace them with some NGK's while I'm in there. Also just check your cap and rotor for corrosion on the contacts.
 
Don't forget to go in with a full tank of gas too. They do a leakdown test on our gas tanks with older vehicles. If they do that before the other tests and you have an empty tank it'll take forever to do the leakdown test and your engine will cool off! Your tester might get pissed too because you've used too much of his nitrogen to pressurize your tank.

Since yours is a '94 as well, do you know when the last time you changed your O2 sensors? 94's are notorious for snacking on O2 sensors and had a recall in ancient history for this model year.
 
Last time my car fail smog, I poured in a can of Seafoam from autozone and passed the next day.
 
If I have a bad O2 sensors will I net get the check engine light?
 
Pre OBD2 have to have the tank pressurized and the who shebang compared to OBD2. Didnt know until the other day when i asked my buddy who used do smog.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom