Maybe check out these guys, they seem to have been doing it for a while...
Our hard-sided pop-up campers are built to last. Sturdy and dependable, they're perfect for adventurous travelers. Experience efficient and comfortable camping anywhere.
www.alaskancampers.com
I'm surprised that it took 32 posts to reach this. I'd have expected it in the first several posts because they've been doing this design for a long time. At one time or another they used a Pirelli rubber seal with band of shag carpet(!) captured in the overlap. The purpose of the carpet was to keep wind gusts from being able to blow past the rubber seat. I suspect that it also aided in the raising and lowering of the top. AND it should be noted that these campers are very tough and have always been framed in wood. How the wood is fastened together is what makes or breaks a wood frame construction, not the fact that it is wood.
Dig into how they guide the upper part up and down. For the record they used hydraulics to raise & lower for decades, don't know if they still do or not.
Be careful mixing steel and aluminum on the same structure, particularly in a wet environment. Without a dielectric barrier between them a little moisture in the crevices sets up a galvanic corrosion battery. I've seen the results of this, I'm not well versed in how to avoid it.
Something else to consider with metal framing is cold path. If the inner skin and the outer skin are both fastened to frame member then you have no insulation there. One camper that we had would show the 'footprint' of the roof framing in condensation. If the frame member is wood then it's less of an issue, but not cured. Campers designed for truly cold weather have the frame members offset and half thickness so that there can be at least some insulation at all points between the inner and outer skins.
You're going to need/want something better than a typical trailer leaf spring. Not that a leaf spring isn't a viable option, but that trailer springs are way too short. They get away with no dampers by having really stiff springs. Plan on dampers and soft springs. Or if going with a Torflex, still plan on dampers. Maybe even ESPECIALLY if going with Torflex to plan on dampers. Some folks get wound around the axle over independent suspension. I fail to see the need for that complexity. Keep it simple, keep it parts that you can source in BFE.