Shiftlock issues

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Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Threads
41
Messages
139
Location
Eastern Ontario, Canada
my 93 80 has recently started giving me a hard time getting out of park.

I did not know about the shiftlock and was able to shift the lever out of park with force.

I have searched other threads and have checked:

1) fuses-all good
2) rear tail lights-all functioning
3) no dash lights on at all other than the abs light which has been on for the past 4 years.
4) brake fluid level is fine.

recently a seized front caliper was replaced.

New brakes and rotors all around.

Any other suggestions or leads to get this pain in the ass resolved?

:bang:
 
That is a little eerie how many times I've had problems with my vehicles and come to the forum, and on the first page of posts there's someone else with the same issue!

I just started having this problem for the first time, so I'll be looking into it. Will post back here with what I find...
 
Do the brake lights come on when you press the brake pedal?
 
Another question - are you aware of the shiftlock override button? Well, that's what the owners manual calls it. On the console, just above the gear position markings is a little rectangular shaped cover that can be pryed off with a screwdriver. With your parking brake set and the ignition switch in the lock position, insert the screwdriver into the hole that was exposed when the little cover was removed, and push the shift lock override button. With button pushed you can shift out of Park to Neutral. 80 will also start in Neutral. Until you find out what your problem is, you can drive it as normal and when you park, instead of putting tranny in Park, leave it in Neutral with parking brake set. If you forget, just use above procedure with screwdriver. In my '94 FSM, in the Automatic Transmission chapter, there's 3 pages on the shift lock setup. If you don't have the FSM, I'd recommend getting the '94 version - I've heard it's better and will give you all you need for your '93.
 
I put a 2" body lift on my truck which necessitated that I adjust the shifter linkage and lengthen the tcase shifter. While doing this I realized that the shift lock is simply a little tab right on the shifter under the plastic cover. I simply put a zip tie on it, effectively holding it open all the time. i can now get in my truck without a key in the ignition and no foot on the brake and shift from anywhere to anywhere. I like it.
:meh:
 
I haven't checked if the brake lights light up if I step on the brakes...will do.

I have a 97 FSM e/r to me as we speak.....

I have no problem just yanking it out of park, but I hope I don't break something...not my DD, and just had bodywork done at a buddy's bodyshop (did most of the work myself-actually didnt turn out to bad) so it's currently parked while I ponder to sell it or keep it as a dedicated trail truck (the 97 is too nice to kick the s*** out of quite yet)

Thanks for the suggestions....I guess I'll wait a few days until the FSM arrives.....
 
If the brake lights do not come on when you step on the pedal it is related to your problem. The brake light circuit energizes the shiftlock solenoid.
 
I've had this problem for a few years. For me, it's always a 2 handed operation to shift out of Park. I'd certainly like a solution. My brake lights all work properly.


Kalawang
 
First off, the following info is from a '97 EWD. It probably holds true for your '93, but I don't know for sure.

The shift lock ECU controls a solenoid that when energized disengages the shift lock. The solenoid gets energized when 1) the ignition switch is in the "on" position, 2) the brake pedal is depressed, and 3) the shift lever is in the "P" position. So you can determine if you have an electrical problem by unplugging the solenoid and seeing if there's 12v present at the solenoid connector when those three conditions are met. The solenoid is attached to the shifter mechanism and can be accessed by removing plastic cowl cover after you remove the center console. I think there's 4 bolts holding in the console and 4 screws holding the cowl cover, so this shouldn't take you long. While you've got the solenoid disconnected you can also measure the coil resistance, when the FSM says should be 20-28 ohms. And you can manually energize the solenoid by providing 12v and ground to the coil and seeing if it operates. The mechanics of the shift lock will be obvious by just looking at it after you take the cowl cover off. All in all, then shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to diagnose.
 
try opening the panel that houses the stick shift and inspect the manual locking mechanism. it must have been misaligned when you forced your stick out of park the first time. it is a locking mechanism that slots into some holes
 
I have had this problem for a couple of years now and have tried everything recommended to find the source with no success. My shiftlock problem is intermittent and seems to act up only after being driven in the rain. ??? :mad::mad: And then only for a day or two...???... Since I could not locate the source of the problem, I did what was suggested by one of the members here who had also had the same problem for years.

It seems that a carpenters pencil (found at any Home Depot or Lowes) will exactly fit into the slot for the shiftlock override switch. I was told to keep one handy and jst use it to bypass the shiftlock. I took it one step further and cut the pencil so about a 1/2" stuck out of the hole, then I sanded down the rough edge and painted it black. I leave it in the hole all of the time and it looks like it is a factory part!!! :):):)

Problem Solved....... :clap::clap:
 
Once again CDAN comes through.....

I did check the tail lights but did not think to check the brake lights.

Had time to check them today...and voila...not functioning.

Fuses are fine, but somewhere between the front of the vehicle and the rear, the wire is broken.

Will be taken care of tommorow.....that should take care of this issue....will update...thanks again to all for the suggestions provided....

:cheers:
 
Last edited:
Check the stop-light switch on the brake pedal as well.
 
First off, the following info is from a '97 EWD. It probably holds true for your '93, but I don't know for sure.

The shift lock ECU controls a solenoid that when energized disengages the shift lock. The solenoid gets energized when 1) the ignition switch is in the "on" position, 2) the brake pedal is depressed, and 3) the shift lever is in the "P" position. So you can determine if you have an electrical problem by unplugging the solenoid and seeing if there's 12v present at the solenoid connector when those three conditions are met. The solenoid is attached to the shifter mechanism and can be accessed by removing plastic cowl cover after you remove the center console. I think there's 4 bolts holding in the console and 4 screws holding the cowl cover, so this shouldn't take you long. While you've got the solenoid disconnected you can also measure the coil resistance, when the FSM says should be 20-28 ohms. And you can manually energize the solenoid by providing 12v and ground to the coil and seeing if it operates. The mechanics of the shift lock will be obvious by just looking at it after you take the cowl cover off. All in all, then shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to diagnose.

I energized the swicht and it worked, I could see the plunger pulling back while having it connected to the battery and while steping on the brake. I checked resistance and it showed some resistance I would say 2-25 Ohms. The brake lights did worked. I put everything back and now the switch doesn't seem to work. Anywone have an idea how much this switch cost?:confused:
 
I've been pushing the Big Red Eject Button on mine for awhile now to shift it. I did pick up a shift lock control unit awhile back in case that might be the issue, but havent installed it yet. I'm kinda thinking perhaps it may just be that switch down at the brake pedal though (brake lights all work) ?
ToyoDiy shows 2 part numbers, and I dont see what the difference is between them? 84340-30030 and 84340-30050

edit: answering myself. 84340-30050 — stop-lamp switch with cruise control for the early HDJ81, specifically 01/1990–07/1991.

1787179033925.webp
 
I've been pushing the Big Red Eject Button on mine for awhile now to shift it. I did pick up a shift lock control unit awhile back in case that might be the issue, but havent installed it yet. I'm kinda thinking perhaps it may just be that switch down at the brake pedal though (brake lights all work) ?
ToyoDiy shows 2 part numbers, and I dont see what the difference is between them? 84340-30030 and 84340-30050

edit: answering myself. 84340-30050 — stop-lamp switch with cruise control for the early HDJ81, specifically 01/1990–07/1991.

View attachment 4197789
84340-30050 is apparently discontinued, but currently available from vendors such as Amayama. OEM substitutes appear to be:

1787180483735.webp


1787180508119.webp
 
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