She is fighting me!!!!

[GerhardUngerer]

The PO did me the favor of breaking one of flange studs off. And banging on the flange to the point that it likely deformed the cone washer holes. Yay me!

The cone washers are IN THERE. Day 3 of heat, PB Blaster, Brass Punch and a big hammer. ONE came out. The others are STUCK IN.

Also, the darn wheel sensor bolt broke off. And I had to use a chisel to get the sensor to budge so that I can get it out of there.

It is going to be worth it, but it sure is frustrating now.

Not sure how I am going to get the cone washer or stud out on that broken stud.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Air chisel on the face of the flange beside the cone washer/studs.

If you don't have an air chisel, a rotary hammer drill on hammer only with a chisel point in it will produce the same result. I welded a piece of round tube to the stub of a broken SDS bit and put it over the stud, and rattle the vibe washers or with the hammer drill.

Replace all the hardware, and the flanges. Low cost, big result.

 

[GerhardUngerer]

Air chisel on the face of the flange beside the cone washer/studs.

If you don't have an air chisel, a rotary hammer drill on hammer only with a chisel point in it will produce the same result. I welded a piece of round tube to the stub of a broken SDS bit and put it over the stud, and rattle the vibe washers or with the hammer drill.

Replace all the hardware, and the flanges. Low cost, big result.

I only have the one attachment on an old air chisel. But this thing will dig a hole QUICKLY in that flange.

I tried it on a piece of metal and it dug a nice hole.

 

[GerhardUngerer]

Anyone with advice on how to drill out that hole for the wheel sensor? It doesn't go through and there is no space to put a drill in there.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I only have the one attachment on an old air chisel. But this thing will dig a hole QUICKLY in that flange.

I tried it on a piece of metal and it dug a nice hole.
View attachment 3105272

This will get it done. Personally, I'd be grinding the point of that puppy to get the job done, and buy a new point for it later.

 

[Mat Jadamec]

dremel tool to split the cone washer and dig it out, drive the hub off with the tapped holes, should have enough grip to get the stud out at that point, and drill out and insert the hole for the wheel sensor fastener

 

[GerhardUngerer]

Cone nut update

• PB Blaster - CHECK
• Heat - CHECK
• Air Chisel - CHECK
• BIG HAMMER and brass drift - CHECK
• Words of affirmation - CHECK
• Drive a wedge in the washer opening - actually got 1 to come loose. No luck on the others.
• MORE HEAT - CHECK
• MORE beating, air chisel, words of affirmation - CHECK

Hours spent - 48375 (feels like)
Cone washers freed - 2

 

[gummycarbs]

Anyone with advice on how to drill out that hole for the wheel sensor? It doesn't go through and there is no space to put a drill in there.

I don't remember the clearance around the ABS sensor, but this has been useful for drilling in tight spaces:

3/8 in. Professional Reversible Air Angle Drill

Amazing deals on this 3/8In Reversible Air Angle Drill at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

(Mine's the older version, which was Central Pneumatic or whatever)

Also, I generally try to use a Dremel with a disc to cut a slot into heads of broken bolts. It looks like you'll cut the housing a bit if you tried that, but I don't see how that would hurt anything at that location unless you went nuts and sliced all the way through the housing.

 

[hatzlibutzli]

Have you tried something like that: German Trennmesser

Regards Simon

PS: sorry did not find the technical english name

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Don't try to wedge the cone open, grab it with a pair of vice grips and squeeze across the slot, wiggle and twist and pull, you might get lucky and unscrew the stud too. If this doesn't work, use a hack saw or dremel cut off wheel and cut a screwdriver slot across the stud. Whack with impact driver.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/TEKTON-3-8-Inch-Drive-Impact-Screwdriver-Set-7-Piece-2905/5004354897?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-bng-_-PLA_TOL_218_Mechanic-Automotive-Tools-_-5004354897-_-Online-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&msclkid=d3d503e046aa18884c6b60f60a68ca59&gclid=d3d503e046aa18884c6b60f60a68ca59&gclsrc=3p.ds

As for clearance to drill the broken bolt; Jack up the rig as high as you can get it. Hold the frame up on jack stands, remove the shock and lower the axel down as far as it will go with the floor jack, might need to pull the spring too, but at this point it will fall out anyway.

 

[GerhardUngerer]

I beat it harder, heat it more (start with red hot, then go to Georgia-summer hot, then the scorn of a woman hot), put PB blaster on it, cried, laughed, and repeated. They finally came out. The PO beat on the sides to the point where the holes were deformed. Still are. Not sure how to correct that or if I am even going to worry about it.

 

[GerhardUngerer]

Next crazy thing. Everything is rust-welded together.

The flex brake line is stuck. Like stuck-stuck. I removed the clip and when I wiggled the line, NOTHING. Crabbed it with pliers and it bends that whole bracket, but does not want to budge. I bathed it in ATF/acetone. Will see how it turns out.

QUESTION: Does the dust shield come apart in multiple pieces or is it a once-piece?

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Are you hammering here with a very big hammer?

Don't hammer on the stud.

Some people also have success hammering on the face of the flange but I always hammer in the blue circle and never had a problem on multiple toyotas.

 

[KC masterpiece]

I would get medieval and assume the flange was a lost cause. New flanges are cheap.

Maybe a stud extractor would pull the stud and cone washer? Risky as it also could just break the stud.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Isn't that flange part of the rear axle?

 

[JOFS]

Dust shields are one piece

 

[Rusty Marlin]

According to the instructions, you should beat the everliving sh!t out of the flange where marked in red with a brass bar and BFH.
And it worked for me, but it was a battle and a half.

I might have a solution for the deformed cones. How soon till you put it back together?

 

[GerhardUngerer]

I might have a solution for the deformed cones. How soon till you put it back together?

It will be a week or two.

 

[LINUS]

If you slot the tops of the studs & just expect to buy new ones, then you can get any number of ball or needle-point Dremel bits in there.

If you are buying a Dremel, get a corded one since there’s quite a bit of work there.
But once you have one, you find a bunch of uses.

I have a battery Dremel & corded, battery jobber is pretty much just the dog groomer / toenails.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Are you hammering here with a very big hammer?

View attachment 3106827

Don't hammer on the stud.

Some people also have success hammering on the face of the flange but I always hammer in the blue circle and never had a problem on multiple toyotas.

Hammering the flange is not the way to go IMO

Once the flange is deformed, cone washers don't seat properly, flange doesn't matter with the hub properly, clamping force on the studs/flange is unpredictable, studs are tweaked.

Next time around, you have to wail on it harder, and so there cycle continues.

I've had able flanges that had to be filled flat on the hub matting face, and cone washer holes dressed up carefully with a countersink bit too remove a big burr caused from being beaten.

New hardware for the hubs is cheap. With while replacing it on a new to you truck if the existing stuff is not tip top