Second NAPA radiator in 5,000 miles

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I don't see a lot of CSF rads fail, but Koyo definitely has a lower rate. For me to buy a CFS, it's only $5 more for a Koyo.

I have options on vendors for a 1917, and we monitor what is bought nation wide. APDI is not a vendor that we will buy a 1917 from, however they make plenty of parts that are on the money.

CFS is not a bad radiator manufacturer, they're in the upper end of the scale, actually. They make some good stuff. I'm fairly certain the '84 FJ60 has a CSF, a nice 4 row. Seemed like it cooled just fine last weekend, but it only gets driven a mile every 3-4 months.

If the tank on the CSF does fail, someone will be able to work on it. You might get lucky and JB weld could suffice to repair the leak. Radiator shops can remove/replace plastic tanks, it's just a bit of work, time, and you hope the seal doesn't move when it gets crimped back together. JB weld isn't working on a Koyo, unless it's a row that got knicked. When the seal busts, you're done.

It's the same with the Denso, seal goes, it's done. All Koyo, Denso and CSF 1917 radiators are 3 row. There are other vendors that have 1917 radiators, CRS is one, and it might be better than the Koyo even as a 2 row, but I doubt it. 1917 radiator side by side comparison, the Koyo was more robust, and in my humble opinion, better all around.

Inspect the grommets, replace as needed. The CSF is a brick, house.
 
I use all CSF radiators. Some have been in 7 years. My Toyota plastic metal tanks radiators always leak at the seal between the plastic and metal,supposed to be rebuildable with the right tool but I have nevar seen it done. I like Toyota products but not their plastic radiators. 2 cents Mike
 
Nope, the top and bottom tanks are plastic.

Is this accurate? I just searched around and finally pulled the trigger on the 93/94 brass unit and I had thought they had metal top and bottom tanks. Is it the koyo that is all metal that Ive seen on here then?

either way I hope not to order another one for a long while.........
 
Ask for details what he does to make the radiator better than OEM or Ron Davis etc.

Will do. I'm not sure it will be better than a RD but it will be about half the cost. My whole motivation for going to a local radiator shop is the RD radiator. His radiator looks like the clear winner but at almost $1,000 after tax and shipping it is just not in my budget.

This may not be the road I go down but want to explore all my options. Here is a link to the shop.

Radiators are our business


:cheers:
 
Is this accurate? I just searched around and finally pulled the trigger on the 93/94 brass unit and I had thought they had metal top and bottom tanks. Is it the koyo that is all metal that Ive seen on here then?

either way I hope not to order another one for a long while.........

AFAIK, 93/94 OEM Toyota radiators have plastic tanks.
 
AFAIK, 93/94 OEM Toyota radiators have plastic tanks.

You are correct sir.

How much was it JFZ?

649.82 with smart shopper price of 487.37 which leads me to my concern that they charged me for a 95/6/7 version but delivered what I wanted. But I see there must be some variences in toyota pricing. I ordered another part that had a mud price of 240 thru cdan and it came marked as 260 with the club discount. Cant find it for the life of me but I read a post by cdan saying you should be able to get this one for 411.xx
 
You are correct sir.



649.82 with smart shopper price of 487.37 which leads me to my concern that they charged me for a 95/6/7 version but delivered what I wanted. But I see there must be some variences in toyota pricing. I ordered another part that had a mud price of 240 thru cdan and it came marked as 260 with the club discount. Cant find it for the life of me but I read a post by cdan saying you should be able to get this one for 411.xx
I don't see a lot of CSF rads fail, but Koyo definitely has a lower rate. For me to buy a CFS, it's only $5 more for a Koyo.

I have options on vendors for a 1917, and we monitor what is bought nation wide. APDI is not a vendor that we will buy a 1917 from, however they make plenty of parts that are on the money.

CFS is not a bad radiator manufacturer, they're in the upper end of the scale, actually. They make some good stuff. I'm fairly certain the '84 FJ60 has a CSF, a nice 4 row. Seemed like it cooled just fine last weekend, but it only gets driven a mile every 3-4 months.

If the tank on the CSF does fail, someone will be able to work on it. You might get lucky and JB weld could suffice to repair the leak. Radiator shops can remove/replace plastic tanks, it's just a bit of work, time, and you hope the seal doesn't move when it gets crimped back together. JB weld isn't working on a Koyo, unless it's a row that got knicked. When the seal busts, you're done.

It's the same with the Denso, seal goes, it's done. All Koyo, Denso and CSF 1917 radiators are 3 row. There are other vendors that have 1917 radiators, CRS is one, and it might be better than the Koyo even as a 2 row, but I doubt it. 1917 radiator side by side comparison, the Koyo was more robust, and in my humble opinion, better all around.

Inspect the grommets, replace as needed. The CSF is a brick, house.

I checked out Koyo at CARID and they had two different ones. Both appeared to have plastic tanks and aluminum core. One was listed as Koyorad $165, PN 1918 and the other as Koyo, $322, PN 1749096. The rep said they were made by different companies. I suspect the Koyo radiator is all aluminum, however the picture shows plastic and the text states plastic. Probably a mistake by CARID did not know. I checked the part numbers with Koyorad and they never heard of the Koyo part number listed by CARID. Do you know if Koyorad radiators with aluminum core and plastic tank are any good?

Also, Denso makes a radiator, copper core, plastic tank for twice the price, but it appears that it fits only up to 1/95. Based on Dealer my model is late, 6/95 and the radiator is different, but same as 96. but he does not know why. The Denso radiator is not listed for 96. It appears to me that they changed from copper core to aluminum in 95 and that may be the reason for the different OEM part number but I am not sure if that is it. Do you know?
 
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