Saginaw Steering - How to get the 4 turn 4 bolt box

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Senor Aguas

Senor Aguas

Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Threads
48
Messages
508
My steering box is leaking. I've been doing some research and I see that I want/need a 4 turn box with 4 bolt mounting from a '68 Impala or '75 Jeep J20. Not sure what I have currently, or what it came off of.

Well, no parts stores around here have them in stock for me to look at and none of the parts monkeys know anything about the boxes.

From browsing Oreilly's website (other store's part numbers are the same or very similar), I see that:

A '68 Impala uses a box with the part number, 27-6537 ($133+50 core), as does a 1/2 ton 1975 Jeep J20.

But, a 3/4 ton 1975 Jeep J20 uses a 27-6529 ($133+75 core). That's got me confused, b/c I figure I want the most heavy duty box and that differs from the Impala box. Anyone out there been through this and can let me know? I'd rather not have to order the wrong one and send it back...

David.
 
As long as it is a pre-1980, "800" box you should be good. The 800 box has a 13/16 input shaft while the 605 box has a 3/4 input. Don't know if there is a stregth difference between a 3/4 ton Heep and a 68 Impala but the Impala was a heavy SOB.
 
Hi All:

I have the four bolt, 4.25 turn Saginaw PS gearbox from a '68 GM car (can't remember if it was an Impala, Chevelle, Riveria, or what.) Works great, though after 40 years it leaks PS fluid from the casting when hot! :p

A buddy got a J20 Saginaw PS gearbox from a local re-builder. Looks preetty much the same as the 40 year-old 'box I'm using (except his is shiny, clean, and doesn't leak fluid!) :grinpimp:

So, either 'box should work fine for you.

Good luck!

Alan
 
Thanks, but I still don't know if its a 1/2 ton J20 or 3/4 ton. Apparently, they have different boxes.

Mine's leaking a lot of fluid out the input shaft. Napa told me an input seal kit didn't exist, but I found one at Oreilly's for $9. Any experience fixing this type of leak? Or should I get a new box?
 
Relax. The 1/2 ton box you refer to is for a J10, the J20 is the one you want. The J10 steering box is the same part number as the 68 impala box.
The 27-6529 is the one you want. It is same as others but has a larger piston. If you look at em side by side you can see it. The end cap is 3 1/4 " as opposed to 3".

The boxes both use 4 mount holes, have 4.25 turns and use the 13/16 input. I ordered both to see the diff and actually installed and ran both just so I knew I had a usable trail spare.

You can use napaonline to cross check the part #'s. FWIW I used 1976 as my J10/J20 year.


27-6529 is the one you want.
 
I've just bought another J20 box last week...I always brough the tape to measure the end cap to make sure it was the right one, I kept my core (40 bucks worth) since these suckers are harder to find nowaday. I'm sending it to this place to rebuild for future spare:

hydrosteering

I think you can get a j20 box from the above place too.
 
Senor Aguas said:
Mine's leaking a lot of fluid out the input shaft. Napa told me an input seal kit didn't exist, but I found one at Oreilly's for $9. Any experience fixing this type of leak? Or should I get a new box?
Click to expand...

Rebuilding the Saginaw is a little tricky. You'll need to borrow or make a special ball retainer tool. I made mine on the lathe out of hardwood. And you'll need detailed instructions. The rebuild kit instructions are marginal. You also need an accurate inch-pound torque wrench.

The kits differ - one for the 3" piston, a different kit for the larger piston.
 
I was right on the cusp of ordering a J20 box but was a bit unsure. Thanks for clearing it up! MUD rocks!
 
Thanks for your help. I pulled my old box off, decided not to rebuild it, then noticed it is 3.5 turns, which gave me even more motivation so I just ordered a 27-6529 box from the local Oreilly's. Should be in the store on Wednesday, and I'll definitely report back on whether its the 4.25 turn, 4 bolt, 3 1/4" piston box. Maybe this will help someone else out there that stumbles across this info.

Next question:

I'd like to upgrade my steering U joint/clamp to a better one that doesn't set screws. Anyone have any suggestions for something a little more robust? The steering shaft is hex.

David.
27-6529.GIF
 
I've actually seen it marketed both ways for off roading (I'm thinking of an early Bronco catalog I have somewhere) , but the way I look at it is that the 4.25 turn box should have more leverage, so it doesn't work as hard for the same power (neither do you with your arms). The trade off is that I'll have to move my arms over a longer distance.

I may be wrong--you should be able to apply the same logic to rear end gears (4.11 vs 5.29), but you can't because the size/number of the teeth on the 5.29's make them a little weaker.

You're right, for street rods, muscle cars, everyone wants the quick ratio boxes.

Now, back to that u-joint/clamp question....
IMG_2039 (Small).webp
 
Update. I got the 27-6529 box that peesalot recommended. Like he said, it was the 4 bolt, 4.25 turn box with the larger piston. Hopefully, this will clear up any confusion someone may have when digging through these Saginaw power steering threads.
 
That collar in the pic should be splined in addition to the set screw. If it is not splined do not use, get one from Mudrak(website same name). You will cut the little nipple off the input shaft of the new box with a hacksaw before you try it and it do not fit.
 
peesalot know's his stuff. I didn't get the message in time and didn't cut the nipple off like he suggested. Well, after trying to get all the air out and still having a dragging feeling in my steering, I realized that that little nipple was interferring (binding) with my u-joint. I took it all apart and cut the nipple off and wala, perfect steering!

Here's a pic of the nipple right before I cut it off with a sawsall. I could see wear from the binding, and all I did was drive it around the block, twice.

peesalot said:
That collar in the pic should be splined in addition to the set screw. If it is not splined do not use, get one from Mudrak(website same name). You will cut the little nipple off the input shaft of the new box with a hacksaw before you try it and it do not fit.
Click to expand...
Picture 018 (Small).webp
 
I accidently cut both my nipples with a sawzall once in a construction accident, but that's another story
 
ojaij40 said:
I accidently cut both my nipples with a sawzall once in a construction accident, but that's another story
Click to expand...
I hope you take some pix if you try to weld them back up to spec!! John
 
peesalot said:
Relax. The 1/2 ton box you refer to is for a J10, the J20 is the one you want. The J10 steering box is the same part number as the 68 impala box.
The 27-6529 is the one you want. It is same as others but has a larger piston. If you look at em side by side you can see it. The end cap is 3 1/4 " as opposed to 3".

The boxes both use 4 mount holes, have 4.25 turns and use the 13/16 input. I ordered both to see the diff and actually installed and ran both just so I knew I had a usable trail spare.

You can use napaonline to cross check the part #'s. FWIW I used 1976 as my J10/J20 year.


27-6529 is the one you want.
Click to expand...
Howdy! I am running a PS system from a 77 Chevy full size Carpice sedan. It. is a 3.5 tun box. It works OK, and it is still pretty dry, but I do have a problem with it. I have the BTB 3" lowered pitman arm and high steer from Luke Porter at 4x4 Labs. It doesn't run sharp enough. I have the stops adjusted way out for Birf protection, but the knuckle housings don't get anywhere near them when I am maxed out. I'm guessing it is the box that limits my movement. Does the 4.25 box allow any more travel lefty righty on the pitman arm? John
 
FJ40Jim said:
John,
The box angles are the same. You need a longer pitman arm to produce more travel in the drag link.
Click to expand...
Dang it! I just knew you were going to say that. I was hoping there was a difference in the boxes, as I have looked for a longer Pitman, with enough drop, and the only one I can find that is 8-9 inches long is flat. Any ideas? John
 
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